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hi all,
my car has been giving me this trouble for at least a year and recently got much worse (or i started noticing it more after driving other people's manual cars).
when applying power to the car (apply gas, downshift, upshift) something in the drivetrain feels like it's "bouncing". I can't figure out a better way to describe it.
it feels like the clutch springs are extremely loose (i guess that's a possibility).
it happens if i'm idling in any gear and apply the gas anything other than as softly as possible. after first power is applied i can hammer on it and it's fine.
if i don't feather the clutch extremely carefully and excessively it does it too.
the motormounts seem fine, no CV clicking that i know of.
it's definitely not the engine hesitating nor misfiring. engine idles and runs fine.
plugs and wires are all under 5k miles, UIM and TB cleaned 3k ago.
another option i guess would be the control arm bushings. i guess i'll take a crow bar to them later to check them out, but the bouncing seems longer in throw than those would permit.
it feels like the power is being applied through a rubberband. i want to drive another SVT to see if they do this.
any ideas?
Last edited by Oo.et.oO; 11/03/03 07:24 PM.
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change your plug wires sounds like misfire.my car did the same thing any thing more then 20% thorttle and the engine would rock back and forth sucks
98 svt sil/blu 3.0 oval heads full P&P, msds headers,bat kit,2,1/2exhaust 30 inch glasspack and 2 spintech mufflers 14.78@94mph
with my mechanical arm i can shift gears in less then a twentieth of a second for sale $7000
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Joined: Mar 2003
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Hard-core CEG'er
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If you haven't done a UIM, LIM, TB cleaning recently, consider that. I did a UIM, LIM cleaning & the slight surge I had during accelleration has gone away.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Joined: Aug 2001
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thanks for the replies.
sorry, should have mentioned, it's definitely not the engine hesitating nor misfiring. engine idles and runs fine.
plugs and wires are all under 5k miles, UIM and TB cleaned 3k ago.
any other ideas? could the clutch disk springs do this?
any other way to check the engine mounts?
thanks
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The springs on the clutch disk normally only do this if they have been overheated. This usually includes glazing or heat cracks on the flywheel from slipping. If you go for a clutch pay special attention to the flywheel since if it is damaged, the bouncing engagement will still be there. The flywheel must be Blanchard ground or replaced if damaged.
To check motor mounts leave the hood up and have someone watch the engine for movement. Stand on the brakes and let the clutch out to load the drivetrain. It should only move about a half inch worst case.
"Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it" -George Santayana
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Originally posted by Rogerm60:
If you go for a clutch pay special attention to the flywheel since if it is damaged, the bouncing engagement will still be there.
To check motor mounts [...] Stand on the brakes and let the clutch out to load the drivetrain. It should only move about a half inch worst case.
clutch doesn't bounce on engagement, it'll do it when the clutch is fully engaged (pedal out) and power is applied, such as if you are just idling around and hit the gas anything other than gingerly the drivetrain feels like it has some viscous slack. really strange. some cars do this a little bit but this feels very bad.
i'll check the motor mounts that way tonight.
how would the TPS affect this? it feels directly applied to the rate at which i apply power, and i have NO other symptoms.
anyone know the people in burlington, VT with SVTs? i wanna drive another to compare. there is a silver E1 that i see all the time. 
thanks again all.
Last edited by Oo.et.oO; 11/04/03 02:29 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2002
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I have the exact same problem you described. I also have a grinding noise at low rpms. After further inspection, I found out that the sound comes from the clutch . I have ordered a spec stage 1 clutch and I am going to install it soon. I hope it solves the problem, it is pretty annoying in traffic jams... My biggest problem now is that I received my clutch but they sent me the wrong one. Instead of a contour zetec clutch they sent me an escort zetec clutch. Man, I will have to wait another couple of weeks before I finally get my clutch fixed. 
1999 CSVT - 104000kms, Black/tan
RU-3530, 17" Rage Enduro, Hella Optilux fogs
BAT kit on its way !
1997 Contour gl sport Zetec mtx
SVT Shocks and Struts
No resonator
SPEC stage 1 clutch
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Originally posted by Oo.et.oO:
how would the TPS affect this? it feels directly applied to the rate at which i apply power, and i have NO other symptoms.
The TPS is bad when its output is not 'smooth' anymore, or
it generates a large transient (change in resistance) on
a slight change of the throttle plate.
I don't know if it applies to you or not, but typical
tps failure symptoms are car bucking and hard shifts even
if you try to feather the gas as much as you can.
T.
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This may be an ignition issue, but a couple more checks on the drivetrain should help confirm the problem. Try loading the engine as Roger mentions with the Ebrake on and the hood open so you can see if the engine is raising or twisting much. Does the clutch chatter heavily if you load the clutch quickly. (i.e. 'almost' dump the clutch with the ebrake on) If you load in reverse and then load in 1st is there a lot more slack than if your just loading from neutral? If you pull hard from 2nd gear at about 10 mph how many bounces till it smooths out? Is it worse if you try the same thing from 3rd gear? I just cleared up a low speed stutter that turned out to be wires that were only about 2 weeks old. 
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