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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 237
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CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 237 |
Okay, I've searched and can find all kinds of stuff on the temp gauge sticking high, but nothing like what happened to me this morning. I was in 'slow and go' traffic because of an accident and, living in Florida, checked my 'Temp' gauge. It was somewhere near the "A", which is okay for a Zetec. Looked down sometime later and it was all the way over like the engine was cold soaked! As I picked up speed past the accident, it jumped up a little, and by the time I got to work (say 15 min) it was back where it should be.
Any thoughts? Bad sender? I read that there are two, one for the ECM and one for the Temp Gauge...
'97 Mercury Mystique GS (Not mine anymore...)
Now running a Toyota Matrix XR
Red, 16" wheels, Sunroof, VVT-i
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,247
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2002
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It could be a bad sending unit. Also it could be getting a bad connection so make sure you check them. Also the gauge itself might be bad but I dont think thats the case. Thats my 2 cents on the situation. Well I hope you find the problem.
Irfan Rahim
irfman2000@yahoo.com
2006 Blue Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V
Former owner of a silver 2000 Contour SE Sport ATX
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,360
Hard-core CEG'er
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damn...i wish my temp gauge would get stuck on LOW  . lately it seems to be riding between the A and the L...hmmm 
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Joined: Jul 2000
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Hard-core CEG'er
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I would agree with 2KSE... While looking at some other electrical diagrams last night, It looked like the guage would show no reading if the circuit was open. (broken wire or loose connection)
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 199
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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My temp gauge is acting weird as well. It used to always be right in the middle, close to the "M" One day after driving on the freweway for 2.5 hours, i looked down and it was between the N and the O. Now it goes back and forth all the time. It used to always stay at the same spot.
2000 Acura 3.2 TL
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Joined: Apr 2002
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Another thing to consider is that the thermostat may have failed in the open position. If the thermostat is permanently "open" the engine will be VERY slow to warm up and may not even get off the "cold" mark, especially in cold weather.
-Mark-
'99 Mystique LS, totally original (including the original water pump and the premium stereo)! Bought new in December 1998 for $21,000.
208,000 miles
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 465
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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I replaced my temperature sending unit a few weeks ago. Yes, it's different than the coolant temperature sensor that goes to the computer. So it won't affect how your fans come on, etc. However, I do have a duratec, so your zetec may be a bit different. But I think the general principle is the same. It's a little hex-shaped thing.
At any rate, it was a super easy fix on my SVT. About 10 minutes.
One thing about your post concerns me, however. My gauge pegged way past the "L," and it stayed there until I fixed it. Your gauge staying at the cooler end may be indicating something other than just a bad unit (loose or cut wire, etc.).
Old car: '98 SVT T-Red
K&N air filter; Ford Focus RS shift knob. Off to be auctioned off somewhere.
New car: 2003 Honda Accord DX Sedan, 5-speed.
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Originally posted by zaphod_fl:
It was somewhere near the "A", which is okay for a Zetec. Looked down sometime later and it was all the way over like the engine was cold soaked! As I picked up speed past the accident, it jumped up a little, and by the time I got to work (say 15 min) it was back where it should be.
I had the same thing last year, from time to time it fell to
zero and gradually went back up.
To verify, when it is down, stop the car, (leave the engine
running), open hood & tap the thermostat housing and the
wires. For me it looked very much like a wire contact
problem (moving the wires always / tapping always solved it
momentarily) but at the end it turned out to be a sensor.
It was < $20 from autozone, and it was the one facing DOWNWARDS
from the thermostat house.
Both autozone & dealer kept saying that the gauge is driven
from the other sensor (facing upwards from the th. housing),
I changed it for no result, finally changed the
other one and it fixed the problem.
Tiv
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Joined: Sep 2003
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New CEG\'er
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I had the same problem. It was the temperature sender that goes to your temperature gage. It cost me $140.00 at the dealer.
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Joined: Oct 2002
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Originally posted by Tom Mpls:
I had the same problem. It was the temperature sender that goes to your temperature gage. It cost me $140.00 at the dealer.
Parts = $20
Labor = $120
Whats that? About $250 an hour?
"Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it" -George Santayana
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