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I was astonished at how cheap the Motorcraft filter is. Around three bucks at Wal-Mart. It's not often that the right filter is also one of the cheapest. FL820S


Old car: '98 SVT T-Red K&N air filter; Ford Focus RS shift knob. Off to be auctioned off somewhere. New car: 2003 Honda Accord DX Sedan, 5-speed.
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fram sucks
fram sucks


98 SVT, clutch masters flywheel, spec stage2 clutch, quaife ,y pipe. and only MOBIL-1 oil. gansta a$$ 2000 Honda Civic on dope("nnnaaawwwzz"). ricers suck KING OF ROAD RAGE i need a center console and cup holder!!!!!1
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Originally posted by Marky:
Originally posted by lithium398:
Originally posted by Marky:
Do a little reading.



FRAM.






I never understood why? I am running mobil 1 synthetic with a fram filter... no problems here.





Poor filtration, it's been discussed here. I read a report comparing oil filters Fram was at or near the bottom of the list. I use K&N, expensive and worth every penny IMHO.




There is new light on the Fram situation. I believe over at the Bobistheoilguy.com website, he got LOWER wear numbers using a Fram filter compared to another.

I'm not saying the K&N is a bad filter, because it is a really good one.

However, I personally, even before the BITOG results, have felt that flow is more important than filtration. (This is why I'm not convinced I should use a Mobil 1 Oil Filter.)

However, for some real life results on a Duratec, take a look at the recent oil analysis for my wife's 2000 Mazda MPV that also uses the 2.5L Ford Duratec engine found in my SVT and many other Contours (but without all the SVT mods of course.)

The following was Mobil 1 5W30 Tri-Synthetic formula (the previous formulation) on a Motorcraft FL820S filter.

http://tlcc2000.dyndns.org/Oil_Analysis/2000-MPV-Oil-Analysis-2003-07-28.jpg

That oil was run a few days shy of 6 months and about 51xx miles.

The oil was still in pretty good shape, but some wear metals were high, likely due to the short trip driving my wife does.

The TBN was still pretty healthy, indicating the oil could still neutralize acids formed in the crankcase from normal combustion byproducts.

There is a guy running a test on Mobil 1 in his Chevy Camaro. I think he has gone 16K miles now, let me see if
I can find the link...

Here you go... http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html

I don't think I would go that long, but wifeys van gets two changes each year, until recently, so did my SVT, but with the Turbo, that will probably go to three changes.

Ditto for my 94 Geo Prizm. But that will be every 4 months or 8-9K miles. But, I have to qualify that with saying I'll be checking the oil analysis on that car as well.

Here is an analysis for that car, also on Mobil 1 Tri-Synth. 5W30 and in this case a standard Purolator filter. I changed the filter to a PureONE and have run the oil another 3xxx miles in the past 6 weeks.

At this rate, I'll probably change it early to mid October and get a sample then.

http://tlcc2000.dyndns.org/Oil_Analysis/1994-Prizm-Oil-Analysis-2003-07-28.jpg

I probably won't get samples every oil change, but will probably do each car at least once a year to see if any danger looms in the horizon.

The samples are about $30 each with a TBN. If you don't need the TBN, then they are about $20 each.

HTH,

TB


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I use Amsoil synthetic 5W-30 with the SDF-11 filter they recommend, change it twice a year minimum, usually every 3000miles. There's no problem with cold start up out here, the coldest it gets is 40 or 50 at the worst. I only drive her 5000-6000 miles a year. . .

I should get this next oil batch analyzed, how do you do that exactly?

Suneil

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You could call the lab or visit their website. I think that information is in my two samples.

They will send you what you need to mail the sample to them.

On the MPV, I caught the sample as I drained the oil for the change. On the Geo, I got a NEW oil drain pan, and captured a sample as it drained, and then put the oil back in, adding some new Mobil 1 to replentish what was spilled and captured in the sample.

You can also buy a vampire pump and take samples from the dipstick tube if you want to sample without draining the oil. They suggest you sample warm/hot engine oil for the most accurate results. Everything in there should be pretty evenly mixed after the engine is hot. If you take a cold sample, there could be "items" in the oil that settle out to the bottom, etc.

HTH,

TB


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Originally posted by Roz 1999 SVT-C:
Originally posted by ScottK:
The Fram tough gaurd is a very good filter, only drawback is the paper end cap which really isn't that big a deal. It has one off the best filtrations (98% SPE, syntetic glass media) out there and is very reasonably priced.


"FRAM® Tough Guard™ filter with the SureGrip® feature

If you're doing a fair amount of off-roading or tow a trailer frequently you need to pay special attention to your engine's cleanliness and use products formulated for these tough driving conditions.

FRAM® Tough Guard™ filter protects your engine when operating in such tough conditions as:
Extreme hot or cold
Stop-and-go traffic
Unusually dirty roads
Heavy loads and towing


How Does it Work?
The FRAM® Tough Guard™ oil filter features a number of advanced characteristics including:

1. Screen-over by-pass valve: Provides back-up filtration for the times when the filter might become clogged in extremely dusty or dirty conditions or when oil flows through the by-pass valve during cold start-ups. The screen provides added protection and insurance against larger, problematic particles of dirt until you change your filter!

2. Synthetic glass and cellulose media: The most advanced feature is the filter media which is a combination of synthetic glass and cellulose uniquely formulated for top-rated efficiency for the life of the filter. Tough Guard filter has even more synthetic glass and cellulose than FRAM® Extra Guard® filter for an even greater life and efficiency with an SPE of 98%.

3. Silicone anti-drainback valve: This design allows the filter to retain oil when your vehicle is turned off so your engine benefits from a filter full of oil at startup. Constructed of silicone, the gasket remains flexible and continues to perform even in extreme heat.

4. PTFE-coated exterior gasket: Reduces friction making it easier when removing the filter. "


The regular orange fram (extra gaurd) is the one that sucked in the comparisons. And don't waste money on the ddouble gaurd as it's a normal filter with snaake oil PTFE in it.




Complete advertisement here.....Frams have been proven to be near the bottle of the barell for high performing engines...and i believe our cars fit into that catagoy....one of my frineds with a 2.5 liter used the tough gaurd filter only to come to realise that filter didn;t filter...casue it had no filtration material in it.....go figure huh....the way he found out was that after 3000 miles his oil was black and watery...he poped open the filter with a dremil and low and behold..nothing inside..Now that may not be a good reason to open up the filter...but it was good enough for him....fram will never see a dime of my money again!!!!!


Roz




Well then how about this:

"Fram Tough Guard
Even with all the problems of the other Fram filters, this one is not too bad. It has a heavier filter element with more surface area, a silicone anti-drainback valve, the cheap pressure relief valve, but with a clever integral screen to keep out large particles, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The only other drawback to this filter is that it is capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal. Looking in through the center outlet does not reveal any paper end caps, but they are there. "

from the original minimopar.net study. It has filtration as good as Mobil1 for 1/3 the price.

Demon - what is the motorcraft SPE and is it just a very dense paper (ie non-synthetic media) filter like the purolator?


97 Contour SE MTX K&N 3530, UR UDP, 19# Injectors, mystery mod, FMS wires, Fordchip.com chip, SVT: TB, Flywheel, clutch, exhaust 04 Grand Caravan SXT
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I'll answer my own question: if the motorcraft really has a pure one filter cartridge it ranks a 99.7 SPE which is downright awesome, and accordding to the sho site it has a damn good flow rate (better than Mobil1 even).

I'm switching back to motorcraft!!!


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Yep. That is all I have ever used on my fords since 95 when I got my first one.
FL-820 and FL-820s w/ oil cooler.


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through my research, K&N is the same as NAPA Gold filter. i use royal purple with a napa gold, seems to work damn nice, considering ive been using it for almost a year now. i think the KN is just a little more expencive than the GOLD filter, but it does the same job.

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Just hit 3,000 miles tonight... time for an oil change. So I guess its mobil 1 oil again, but this time with motorcraft filter.

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