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anyone have a synopsis on how to wire my kenwood and amp to the 4 bostons?? do i have to bypass the amp or how does that work?

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I just finished yesterday installing a Nakamichi CD-40z into my 2000 STV with premium sound (factory amplified) and Boston Rally Rc620 6 1/2' components and bypassed the factory internal amp. The most pain in the ass part was I needed to make custom face plate to mount the tweeter and the 6 1/2 into. I just spray glued two sheets of .125 styrene (plastic for sale sign's) and made a mount out of that. To get the shape I just traced the old stock speaker and cut to fit. Since you have a smaller speaker you may need to use three sheets for a vibration free face. NOTE: It is important that you keep any air from the back of the speaker from passing around to the front.

The Nakamichi Head is AWSOME!!! Very accurate reproduction of music. With No external amp and it is clear (no distortion) all the way to 54 (60 is max volume) I do not know what you goal is but I strongly suggest checking out this unit!! 299+ tx and no unneeded eye candy. Just pure, simple, clear sound.

I did not expect for my car have a premium sound system because it did not say "premium" on the doors nor was I charged on it, (I recheck my invoice). This is the only time I can think of I was mad I got something for free? The best way to tell is drop the glove box and if there is an amp there you will need to by-pass that POS. This is the only install I have done on a ford so I do not know how to do a non-premium (factory amp) install.

Pre-install checklist
1. You will also need to an adapter to go from the head unit out to the speakers. I bought mine from "best buy" about $15
2. I used some 18ga speaker wire from the head unit into the adapter leads you need about 10 feet (you will have extra)
3. If you can find a mounting adapter for your components buy it!.if not make one as listed above. It took me about an hour+ to make both sides.
4. Black paint to paint the speaker mount (if you make your own) it is more visible than you think!
5. Do a search on other sections of this site for other comments on installs. The search function works very, very well. The mods/guides section of this site has a very good guide on installs (removal of door panel ex.. )

If you system does have an amp..

1. Disconnect both plugs from the amp.
2. Place the adapter on the larger (rectangle) of the to plugs that was removed from the amp. Ignore the small one (square) it is no longer needed.
3. From your new head unit splice the speaker wire into the powered lines out and the adapter listed in step 2.
4. Connect the rest of the leads (power, antenna, ex..)
5. That is it.

PS. My head unit has a good level of EQ on it so I adjusted the Boston cross over NOT to adjust the tweeter db level ex.. I figure I can do it in the head (some may argue that it is better to do it in the crossover and they are correct??). To be honest all settings at 0db it sound great..

I hope this helps


------------------
Woz
2000 Contour SVT #136
Black with Blue leather
30% Window tint all around
+ a little rust
PS: I hate my Ford Dealer


Woz
2000 Contour SVT #136
Black with Blue leather
30% Window tint all around
PS: I hate my Ford Dealer
Joined: Sep 2000
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Quote:
Originally posted by woz:

PS. My head unit has a good level of EQ on it so I adjusted the Boston cross over NOT to adjust the tweeter db level ex.. I figure I can do it in the head (some may argue that it is better to do it in the crossover and they are correct??).

I hope this helps




The advantage of adjusting the level at the crossover level is that it affects the entire frequency range of the tweeter. In other words, if it has a -6, -3, or 0 decibel setting, as my Quarts do, that -6 decibel setting will be -6 db down from 4.5-20khz.

When you try to accomplish this from an EQ you end up adjusting a specified frequency/ies. That is why the crossover is preferred. It'd be even better to make your own crossovers if you have the skill.

Dave

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sounds good man, thanks


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