Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Forced Induction Big injectors no chip

I am in the process of troubleshooting a misfire in my car right now. I am wondering if it is possible to put my 30# injectors in my car without the chip that I had burned for them. I was going to put the injectors in because I had a service verify the injectors as well as clean them and put new filters in them. All I want to see is if the idle will be correct. Probably not but I have to ask. I am starting to believe I have some sort of problem with my ecu. The car had 3 dead cylinders with the 30's and the S.F. chip. with the 19's it has 1 misfiring cylinder and thats on the Vortec burned chip. It didn't have these problems before but then again its been sitting for 4 months and the ECU went on a trip to Arizona and back. So will it be ok to run the 30's with the stock ECU for idle only?

no it won't, it will feed approx 50% more fuel than the engine should get.

Isn't there an issue with the coil-pack on our cars? I know the wires caused me one hell of a problem some months back. Just a question...

I have a brand new coil pack now. I'm thinking I'm just going to put the 30's in it and fire it up with the tuned chip for them. Then if I still have a miss fire I am going to pull the chip with the 30's in and see if it idles without a misfire. Unless all that fuel is going to make 6 misfires So basically I am going to go thru the same procedure my mechanic did yesterday. But, they say If you want something done right do it yourself.

The car won't idle with the 30's...at least not for long and it will run rich and misfire.
Chances are you need to check/change the plugs for fuel fouling and check/change the wires.

Even though the chip is tuned for 30's, that isn't the end of the story. Is the MAF stock? You will have to install the chip and injectors, then use an obd scanner to verify long-term and short-term fuel trims to see if it is running too rich or too lean at idle. Not all MAF's from the same year are actually calibrated the same so that could be an issue right there.

This is a perfect example of why I run an emanage piggyback with my chip just to make small fine-tuning adjustments for the air-fuel and improve idle quality. The datalogging is a big help too.

war...

Long Story Short:

I fixed the car mysef, It was the injector. I don't know why the mechanic didn't find this when he swapped the injectors. I'll never go to a mechanic again, Shadetree from here on out. My 30's were good the whole time with the Street Flight chip. Happy as hell I hopped in the car to go for a cruise to test it out. Got 1/4 mile down the street and the tranny broke. Wouldn't get out of third gear. Secondaries didn't even open, I babied the clutch too. I drive around the block stuck in third gear. Get home and diagnose that most likely a internal problem has occured in my brand new beefcake HMS Trans. Car won't shift. I'm down for another couple months.

OUCH! Maybe its a shift cable? or the shift tower perhaps.
If you turn the steering wheel fully right and look through the left front wheel well at the trans you can see where the cables connect to the shift tower. Have someone move the stick around and you should see the cables moving the shift tower levers. If both aren't moving then its probably a broken cable. if both are moving then you can pull the shift tower and easily look inside the transmission to see whats up. Sounds like a cable or a tower to me though it is possible that it could be further in the transmission.

Good luck.

I did what you had said as soon as I got home. I figured mabey one of the plastic clips broke. Which the small one came off but I would assume thats the reverse linkage. If I shift the tower by hand (focus shift tower) the stick moves too. The stick won't stay in the gear you put it in but you can hear the tranny clicking and see the tower miving back and forth, it doesn't move left or right. So now it seems I can get it in first and nuetral only. So If It is first gear and I have to pull the trans I am going to fix the secondarie linkage and rip down the street in first like no other before I pull the trans. But We'll see what the real deal is. Terry is going to call me soon, so he should know right off the bat what happend. After all this though i decided if the trans comes out I am going to do it myself most likely. I have a honda that gets me around so there really is no need to pay someone to fix my hotrod/new hobby. I have learned quite abit in the last few months watching the mechanic work and I am by no means not a mechanic my self. I build precision machines for a living as well as calibrating and verifying the accuricy of sub micron-machines. The svt will be a piece of cake.

I talked to Terry. Its not shifting because of the small cable end. I thought it was a reverse deal but its not so I learned something good today. He walked me through the procedure to put it back on and adjust it. Once again I will not go to a mechanic. Even the best mechanics stumble sometimes. usually with me. Anyways, I have to go to north carolina until tommorow night and then I will do the procedure and test it out. The only other thing that is of concern is whether or not the tranny was damaged in the short amount of drive time. I doubt it but my luck is not great so far. I'll let you all know. Thanks
Brandon

Cool. Glad to hear you have a plan. I was going to say that there are two cables, one that selects the different shift fork, and one that pushes the shift fork back and forth. In the neutral position it moves the 3-4 shift fork between 3-4 and only utilizes the "shifting cable" The other cable, sort of a "shift fork selection cable" just moves the lever into position for either 1-2, 3-4, and 5-R
The shift tower is spring loaded so it should have defaulted to the 3-4 shifting if the "shift fork selector cable" were broken. If you can get it into 1st, then your shifting cable is also not likely to be broken.
This means that its probably the plastic retaining clips that are used to lock the shift cables when you adjust the shifter position. On my car the plastic couplers are white with a black bushing and pop onto the the shift tower levers via a ball joint. The white plastic coupler has an Orange friction clip that allows the end of the cable to slide inside it just a little bit for adjustment, if/when it is popped loose. Once the clip is pressed in it locks the cable from moving.

If one or both of these clips popped out then it would explain your problem. Otherwise its in the trans.

warmonger