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#718137 09/03/03 12:41 AM
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most people do 50 3mm and 50 5mm to do all that, ohh yes 100 330 ohm resistors too. that will set you up good.


Hey hey, i got 100 more blue leds in the mail. Those will be shipping out tonight!


95 SES Sold 99 SE Sport Sold 99 SVT T-Red Tan Interior. K&N, Magnecors, 19' Theorys, And some audio stuff.
#718138 09/03/03 03:18 AM
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Originally posted by auiotour:
most people do 50 3mm and 50 5mm to do all that, ohh yes 100 330 ohm resistors too. that will set you up good.


Hey hey, i got 100 more blue leds in the mail. Those will be shipping out tonight!




put me down for EXACTLY that.

50 3mm, 50 5mm, and 100 330 ohm resistors. how much would that cost?

btw- do you have any red leds? I have an idea that i wanna try, but i only need like 10 red ones, can i buy that many?

#718139 09/03/03 04:48 AM
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yea sure, just paypal me the money, 1.90 for the 10 red leds. and then the rest is uhh 35.00 for the leds and resistors. paypal is auiotour @ comcast.net


95 SES Sold 99 SE Sport Sold 99 SVT T-Red Tan Interior. K&N, Magnecors, 19' Theorys, And some audio stuff.
#718140 09/05/03 03:59 PM
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Hey auidotour how is that tutorial coming along. Can't wait to see that.


2000 Sport SE
#718141 09/06/03 06:18 AM
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check ur PMs dude.

#718142 09/06/03 03:57 PM
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Sorry guys been busy for a few days. I asked someone who has done the install before to help due it since, I am finding myself working lots of overtime this week, and maybe next week. I am gonna redo parts of it so that it is easier to follow. Anyone who has done the LEDs are more then welcome to help me write it. As, I type a whole lot to say just something someone else could say in less words. I have all the pictures needed except the sun/moon roof, and inside of the doors for the door handle lights.


95 SES Sold 99 SE Sport Sold 99 SVT T-Red Tan Interior. K&N, Magnecors, 19' Theorys, And some audio stuff.
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Tools:
Small, Medium and Large Straight Screw Drivers
Philips Screw Driver, Short and Long
Wire Cutters
Soddering Pencil/Gun and Sodder
Electrical Tape or Shrink Wrap Tubing

Starting with the drivers door, Grab a small Straight Screw Driver, and pop off the cap behind the door handle. Then use a Philips Screw Driver to remove the screw, now use a Straight Screw Driver to remove the holder that the switches sit in. Now remove the switches by pressing the small tab that holds the male end of the harness in. To remove the drivers switches use a Straight Screw Driver and push the tab out, and pull the switches out, and press the small tab to remove the switch. On each of the switches there two tabs that need to be pried with a small tipped Straight Screw Driver. Two Straight Screw Drivers are needed to open each switch. Once one of the sides on the switch has been pried open begin to pry the other side of the switch. But be careful that the switch doesnâ??t snap back shut. Once the switches are open the L.E.D.s can now be installed. A Soddering Pencil/Gun (pencil preferred), sodder, wire cutters will be needed.
To do the lock switch cut the wire at the end of the original resistor and at the other end of the original L.E.D. bulb. Make sure to keep the circuit intact, so that it can be used for study if needed. Now there are four small tabs that will need to be cut off in order for the new L.E.D.s to sit correctly. Make sure to center them perfectly. Now begin to sodder the new 330 Ohm resistor and 3mm L.E.D. in the exact way that the one that was removed came out. If at any time the process is forgot, look at the circuit that was pulled out. It will refresh the mind and show how the original was installed. Once soddering is done, plug the lock Switch into the corresponding harness, and test to make sure the install was a success. If the install was a success, begin putting the lock switch together. The first step is to make sure that the metal pieces inside the switch are put in properly. Hold the top half of the switch upside down and begin sticking the metal pieces in with the point, pointed up. Now, put the switch back together. This switch is now done.
To do the window switches cut as close to the bottom on every L.E.D. except one. Keep that one, till the installation has been successful when tested. Then cut the remaining L.E.D. out. Once the L.E.D.s that are being replaced first are out. Begin soddering in the new L.E.D.s. Once they are installed test the switch by connecting it to the harness. If the circuit is successful finish disconnecting the remaining L.E.D. and sodder in the final L.E.D. in place. The window switch needs no resistors. To begin putting the window switch back together, the window switch has a window lock function that is hard to figure out and will need to be messed with a few times in order to get it into perfect placement. If the switch is too easy to move, itâ??s not done right. If the switch wonâ??t move, itâ??s not done right. Once the lock switch is working properly set it a side, its now time to remove the door panel.
To remove the Door Panel there are several screws, two screws are on the left side of the door (outer most part), two screws underneath, one screw on the right side, one other screw in the lower right corner behind a small cap, one screw in the mirror sail panel, that covers the mirrors screws, use a small Straight Screw Driver to get this out, or Knife. Two screws are behind the door handle that is used to grab and close the door. There is a small whole under the handle, use a large Straight Screw Driver to pry the cover off to make the screws visible. Once all of this is done lift on the bottom of the door, and pull away from the door, then lift up. Now there is black insulator to keep the noise out of your car, find the spot where the green light shines through behind the door handle. Now remove the black insulator above where the green light shines through. Now pull the bulb holder out. Cut the wires about 1/2 inch so there is something to pull the prongs out to install the 5mm L.E.D. Remove all the old metal pieces inside the holder so that 5mm L.E.D. can easily fit in and install it. Add the resistor at the positive end of the L.E.D. (long wire or the side that isnâ??t flat on the actual L.E.D.) Turn car lights on to test the connection. If the light turns on, remember how itâ??s connected. Now sodder it on good then sodder the L.E.D. with resistor back to the wires that used to run to the old green light. Wrap each wire with electrical tape or shrink wrap tubing. Slip the holder back into place and begin putting the door panel back on.
Follow this by putting the switches back in and the door switch holder back on.



******************************

This is what its gonna look like, just a little sample. I will be adding pictures also. The link is still up, but, I decieded to type it all out, then post. lol, so that way nobody gets confused. I am still awaiting a approval of using or having someone right me the tutorial for installing the lights behind the door levers on the post97 models. That will be coming soon. The only part thats different, is connecting it into the window or lock switch's power and ground. thats it. If I knew which one was power, I would do it myself and write it up when I do the actual install.

The rest of the doors can use this install method on all doors, the screw locations are a tiny bit different on the back doors, no mirror panel screw, and there is only one screw where the part of the door you grab to close is. the rest is easy. I am gonna start writing the other doors up, and begin center console area.


95 SES Sold 99 SE Sport Sold 99 SVT T-Red Tan Interior. K&N, Magnecors, 19' Theorys, And some audio stuff.
#718144 09/07/03 02:47 AM
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,294
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Posts: 4,294
Tools: Small, Medium and Large Straight Screw Drivers
Philips Screw Driver, Short and Long
Wire Cutters
Soddering Pencil/Gun and Sodder
Electrical Tape or Shrink Wrap Tubing

Starting with the right front passenger door, Grab a small Straight Screw Driver, and pop off the cap behind the door handle. Then use a Philips Screw Driver to remove the screw, now use a Straight Screw Driver to remove the holder that the switches sit in. Now remove the switches by pressing the small tab that holds the male end of the harness in. To remove the drivers switches use a Straight Screw Driver and push the tab out, and pull the switches out, and press the small tab to remove the switch. On each of the switches there two tabs that need to be pried with a small tipped Straight Screw Driver. Two Straight Screw Drivers are needed to open each switch. Once one of the sides on the switch has been pried open begin to pry the other side of the switch. But be careful that the switch doesnâ??t snap back shut. Once the switches are open the L.E.D.s can now be installed. A Soddering Pencil/Gun (pencil preferred), sodder, wire cutters will be needed.
To do the lock switch cut the wire at the end of the original resistor and at the other end of the original L.E.D. bulb. Make sure to keep the circuit intact, so that it can be used for study if needed. Now there are four small tabs that will need to be cut off in order for the new L.E.D.s to sit correctly. Make sure to center them perfectly. Now begin to sodder the new 330 Ohm resistor and 3mm L.E.D. in the exact way that the one that was removed came out. If at any time the process is forgot, look at the circuit that was pulled out. It will refresh the mind and show how the original was installed. Once soddering is done, plug the lock Switch into the corresponding harness, and test to make sure the install was a success. If the install was a success, begin putting the lock switch together. The first step is to make sure that the metal pieces inside the switch are put in properly. Hold the top half of the switch upside down and begin sticking the metal pieces in with the point, pointed up. Now, put the switch back together. This switch is now done.
To do the window switch cut the wire at the end of the original resistor and at the other end of the original L.E.D. bulb. Make sure to keep the circuit intact, so that it can be used for study if needed. Now there are four small tabs that will need to be cut off in order for the new L.E.D.s to sit correctly. Make sure to center them perfectly. Now begin to sodder the new 330 Ohm resistor and 3mm L.E.D. in the exact way that the one that was removed came out. If at any time the process is forgot, look at the circuit that was pulled out. It will refresh the mind and show how the original was installed. Once soddering is done, plug the window Switch into the corresponding harness, and test to make sure the install was a success. If the install was a success, begin putting the window switch together. The first step is to make sure that the metal pieces inside the switch are put in properly. Hold the top half of the switch upside down and begin sticking the metal pieces in with the point, pointed up. Now, put the switch back together. This switch is now done.
To remove the Door Panel there are several screws, two screws are on the left side of the door (outer most part), two screws underneath, one screw on the right side, one other screw in the lower right corner behind a small cap, one screw in the mirror sail panel, that covers the mirrors screws, use a small Straight Screw Driver to get this out, or Knife. Two screws are behind the door handle that is used to grab and close the door. There is a small whole under the handle, use a large Straight Screw Driver to pry the cover off to make the screws visible. Once all of this is done lift on the bottom of the door, and pull away from the door, then lift up. Now there is black insulator to keep the noise out of your car, find the spot where the green light shines through behind the door handle. Now remove the black insulator above where the green light shines through. Now pull the bulb holder out. Cut the wires about 1/2 inch so there is something to pull the prongs out to install the 5mm L.E.D. Remove all the old metal pieces inside the holder so that 5mm L.E.D. can easily fit in and install it. Add the resistor at the positive end of the L.E.D. (long wire or the side that isnâ??t flat on the actual L.E.D.) Turn car lights on to test the connection. If the light turns on, remember how itâ??s connected. Now sodder it on good then sodder the L.E.D. with resistor back to the wires that used to run to the old green light. Wrap each wire with electrical tape or shrink wrap tubing. Slip the holder back into place and begin putting the door panel back on.
Follow this by putting the switches back in and the door switch holder back on.



95 SES Sold 99 SE Sport Sold 99 SVT T-Red Tan Interior. K&N, Magnecors, 19' Theorys, And some audio stuff.
#718145 09/07/03 02:55 AM
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Left Passenger Door

**************

Tools: Small, Medium and Large Straight Screw Drivers
Philips Screw Driver, Short and Long
Wire Cutters
Soddering Pencil/Gun and Sodder
Electrical Tape or Shrink Wrap Tubing

Starting with the left passenger door, Grab a small Straight Screw Driver, and pop off the cap behind the door handle. Then use a Philips Screw Driver to remove the screw, now use a Straight Screw Driver to remove the holder that the switches sit in. Now remove the switches by pressing the small tab that holds the male end of the harness in. On the switch there two tabs that need to be pried with a small tipped Straight Screw Driver. Two Straight Screw Drivers are needed to open the switch. Once one of the sides on the switch has been pried open begin to pry the other side of the switch. But be careful that the switch doesnâ??t snap back shut. Once the switch is open the L.E.D.s can now be installed. A Soddering Pencil/Gun (pencil preferred), sodder, wire cutters will be needed.
To do the window switch cut the wire at the end of the original resistor and at the other end of the original L.E.D. bulb. Make sure to keep the circuit intact, so that it can be used for study if needed. Now there are four small tabs that will need to be cut off in order for the new L.E.D.s to sit correctly. Make sure to center it perfectly. Now begin to sodder the new 330 Ohm resistor and 3mm L.E.D. in the exact way that the one that was removed came out. If at any time the process is forgot, look at the circuit that was pulled out. It will refresh the mind and show how the original was installed. Once soddering is done, plug the window switch into the harness, and test to make sure the install was a success. If the install was a success, begin putting the window switch together. The first step is to make sure that the metal pieces inside the switch are put in properly. Hold the top half of the switch upside down and begin sticking the metal pieces in with the point, pointed up. Now, put the switch back together. This switch is now done.
To remove the Door Panel there are several screws, three screws are on the left side of the door (outer most part), one screws underneath, two screws on the right side, One screw in the door handle that is used to grab and close the door. Once all of this is done lift on the bottom of the door, and pull away from the door, then lift up. Now there is black insulator to keep the noise out of your car, find the spot where the green light shines through behind the door handle. Now remove the black insulator above where the green light shines through. Now pull the bulb holder out. Cut the wires about 1/2 inch so there is something to pull the prongs out to install the 5mm L.E.D. Remove all the old metal pieces inside the holder so that 5mm L.E.D. can easily fit in and install it. Add the resistor at the positive end of the L.E.D. (long wire or the side that isnâ??t flat on the actual L.E.D.) Turn car lights on to test the connection. If the light turns on, remember how itâ??s connected. Now sodder it on good then sodder the L.E.D. with resistor back to the wires that used to run to the old green light. Wrap each wire with electrical tape or shrink wrap tubing. Slip the holder back into place and begin putting the door panel back on.
Follow this by putting the switch back in and the door switch holder back on.


95 SES Sold 99 SE Sport Sold 99 SVT T-Red Tan Interior. K&N, Magnecors, 19' Theorys, And some audio stuff.
#718146 09/07/03 02:56 AM
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,294
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Hard-core CEG'er
OP Offline
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,294
Right Passenger Door

**************

Tools: Small, Medium and Large Straight Screw Drivers
Philips Screw Driver, Short and Long
Wire Cutters
Soddering Pencil/Gun and Sodder
Electrical Tape or Shrink Wrap Tubing

Starting with the right passenger door, Grab a small Straight Screw Driver, and pop off the cap behind the door handle. Then use a Philips Screw Driver to remove the screw, now use a Straight Screw Driver to remove the holder that the switches sit in. Now remove the switches by pressing the small tab that holds the male end of the harness in. On the switch there two tabs that need to be pried with a small tipped Straight Screw Driver. Two Straight Screw Drivers are needed to open the switch. Once one of the sides on the switch has been pried open begin to pry the other side of the switch. But be careful that the switch doesnâ??t snap back shut. Once the switch is open the L.E.D.s can now be installed. A Soddering Pencil/Gun (pencil preferred), sodder, wire cutters will be needed.
To do the window switch cut the wire at the end of the original resistor and at the other end of the original L.E.D. bulb. Make sure to keep the circuit intact, so that it can be used for study if needed. Now there are four small tabs that will need to be cut off in order for the new L.E.D.s to sit correctly. Make sure to center it perfectly. Now begin to sodder the new 330 Ohm resistor and 3mm L.E.D. in the exact way that the one that was removed came out. If at any time the process is forgot, look at the circuit that was pulled out. It will refresh the mind and show how the original was installed. Once soddering is done, plug the window switch into the harness, and test to make sure the install was a success. If the install was a success, begin putting the window switch together. The first step is to make sure that the metal pieces inside the switch are put in properly. Hold the top half of the switch upside down and begin sticking the metal pieces in with the point, pointed up. Now, put the switch back together. This switch is now done.
To remove the Door Panel there are several screws, three screws are on the left side of the door (outer most part), one screws underneath, two screws on the right side, One screw in the door handle that is used to grab and close the door. Once all of this is done lift on the bottom of the door, and pull away from the door, then lift up. Now there is black insulator to keep the noise out of your car, find the spot where the green light shines through behind the door handle. Now remove the black insulator above where the green light shines through. Now pull the bulb holder out. Cut the wires about 1/2 inch so there is something to pull the prongs out to install the 5mm L.E.D. Remove all the old metal pieces inside the holder so that 5mm L.E.D. can easily fit in and install it. Add the resistor at the positive end of the L.E.D. (long wire or the side that isnâ??t flat on the actual L.E.D.) Turn car lights on to test the connection. If the light turns on, remember how itâ??s connected. Now sodder it on good then sodder the L.E.D. with resistor back to the wires that used to run to the old green light. Wrap each wire with electrical tape or shrink wrap tubing. Slip the holder back into place and begin putting the door panel back on.
Follow this by putting the switch back in and the door switch holder back on.


95 SES Sold 99 SE Sport Sold 99 SVT T-Red Tan Interior. K&N, Magnecors, 19' Theorys, And some audio stuff.
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