Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Forced Induction Forced Induction Info Thread

Please read through this thread before asking any questions that you think might have bee asked already. You may find what you need and wont have to post.

Please keep the idle citchat to a minimum, just good information in this thread.

It may take a little while to get lots of information in here, but its a good idea anyways.

Lets see some good stuff

Standard Street Flight Kit includes (parts can be upgraded):

Garrett T-28
Dual ball bearing liquid cooled

Headers
321 Stainless headers, 304L downpipe and intake pipes
Downpipe includes flex and 3" high flow cat

Filter
7" K&N

Intercooler
Liquid to air

Blow Off Valve
Turbo XS types S

Wastegate
Tial 35mm divorced wastegate by Garrett

Heat Exchanger
8 pass 1/2"

Reservoir Tank
4 gallon aluminum reservoir tank, with aviation style lid

Intercooler pump
198 gph

Injectors
6 24# Ford

Spark plugs
6 NGK

Engine Management
Custom dyno tuned Street Flight chip

Ventilation
Catch can with breather

Battery hold down kit
0 gauge battery line, eyelets and hold downs

Misc.
All silicone for intake, all bolts, oil lines and fittings, brass, vacuum tees and plenty of hose clamps.

Total cost is $5000.

wavrdr's STREET FLIGHT: 13 second run - 2.5L - 5psi Florida
StreetFlight Kit (prototype?)
300 wHP, 261 TQ - warmongers turbo
Warmongers 3L Turbo Project
Kingers 3L Supercharged Cougar
Twin Turbo Duratec (stop stroking)

Nitrous-

Nitrous is not like the movies. You can�??t just slap on a 200 shot and expect your motor to live long. First thing you need to do if you are considering nitrous is learn as much as you can. There are many places on the internet that can help and books that explain how it works. Another thing�?�.it NITROUS, not NOS. N.O.S is a company that makes nitrous kits and it stands for Nitrous Oxide Systems. Here are a couple things to know.

-What size shot can your car handle?: As a general rule, you can spray 50% of what your base engine horse power is. So for an SVT which is rated at 200 hp, the largest you would want is 100 shot.

-What is needed for nitrous?

Needed items: Nitrous Kit, colder plugs with a smaller gap, and common sense when using it.

Recommended items: Purge kit, window switch, bottle heater, A/F gauge, nitrous gauge, fuel pressure gauge, and chip.

-Plugs: A general rule for plugs is one step colder for every 50-75 hp. Start off with one step colder and monitor the plugs for flecks of aluminum, a sure sign of detonation. Do not ever run platinum or splitfire type plugs, copper is what you want. Gap the plugs smaller than normal plugs. Nitrous companies recommend .035 but the odds of �??snuffing out�?� your spark are very small. Most people run a .040-.045 to get a better burn.

-Timing: As another general rule it is recommend that you retard the timing 1-2* for every additional 50 hp you add. By using a higher octane fuel you can get away with less timing and still be safe. But reducing the timing will lessen the chance of detonation and pinging.

-Octane: When using nitrous in any quantity it is best to use a higher octane fuel. Higher octane fuels reduce the chance of detonation. Avoid detonation and pinging like the plague. It will spell certain disaster for a nitrous injected motor. A bottle of octane booster is not a bad idea either, but should not take the place of higher octane fuel.

-Wet, Dry, or Direct Port: Wet kits use one nozzle to supply both the nitrous and fuel into the intake. Dry kits spray the nitrous into the intake and use the existing injectors to supply the extra fuel. Direct port systems supply the nitrous and fuel to each individual intake runner on the motor, or one per cylinder.



I will go over the Venom Kits.

The Venom kits will work with any year Contour V6. They work with both returnless and return style fuel systems. Both kits are computer controlled and tap into your injectors, O2 sensor, and TPS. With the computer control you get A/F monitoring, which means if you start to run lean the nitrous will automatically be shut off. They also use the existing injectors to compensate for the fuel that is needed due to the extra air (nitrous). These kits are in my opinion the safest you can buy.

VCN-1000 - This is the basic nitrous kit with all the safety precautions just not all the frills. The VCN-1000 comes with the computer control box, bottle, lines, wiring harness and 4 nitrous nozzles to select the shot size (25, 50, 75, 100).

VCN-2000 - This is the kit with it all. The VCN-2000 kit comes with computer control box, bottle, lines, wiring harness, digital display module, and a variable valve. With this system you need a computer to download to the control box the points at which you can set throttle angle, RPM activation, and percentage of nitrous. There are 3 different modes to choose from Linear, Drag, and Timed. Linear mode starts with a small shot and works its way up to the full selected output. In the drag setting the full selected shot is sprayed when the activation RPM is reached. And finally timed is for the turbo people. It will spray for 3-4 seconds, by that time the turbo is spooled up and can take over. The digital display lets you keep an eye on what is going on. It features RPM, nitrous status, mode, exhaust (rich or lean), and injector pulse width.

Refer to the following information page and forever be changed!
How Stuff Works / Supercharger and Turbo

This site is very informative and can answer anything from Forced Induction to "How does a rotary engine work?".... Have fun. Knowledge is power.


Dyno Plot of N/A vs. Vortech on 98E0


Timeslip with 2.5L Vortech'd Contour

Thanks Simon!

Post deleted by Rara

FYI: Duratec related
Twin Turbo a Contour?
Another twin turbo post
Intercooler talk w/twin turbo talk

Front mounted I/C

For a guy that doesn't have a turbo (yet), I am posting here quite a bit

Here's some more info I think would be great in this thread:

- Info on what kind of knowledge would be required for installation of the turbo kit (i.e. could any mechanic do it? Are there instructions included? Does the installation need to be done at Street Flight?)
- A sort of history on the Vortech kit, i.e. I know there was initially a problem with spline stripping on the jack shaft, has that been verified to be fixed on the kits currently shipping? Are there any other problems that potential buyers should be aware of?
- Contact info for Street Flight (name/phone #, etc.)

I know I'm sticking my neck out to get flamed here but I was thinking that this info might be included here to save time for others looking for the same information.

Great page on turbo theory...
http://www.turbodriven.com/en/turbofacts/index.asp

How to read a compressor map...
http://www.stealth316.com/2-3s-compflowmaps.htm

Don't know about other states/provinces/countries but Nitrous is very illegal here. Too many street racers killed in a ball-of-flames when the Nitrous ruptured and fanned the flames.

Personally, I rather be blown!

Just thought this should have been added. I know if I would have found this thread a month ago I would have got the chance to save my super charger. This is for those who have Rev 1 or Rev 2 of the Vortech Super Charger. I recommend installing this kit ASAP. I didn't as we didn't disconnect the jackshaft from the super charger the car was prevouisly installed on and drove for several thousands of mile swith no problem. Figure we could do the same we installed it without disconnecting it. unfornently it was splined correctly inside and within 75 short miles both the male and female ends of the jackshaft were destroyed. Striped of all their splines. And All i have to say is this should have been a sticky long ago.

http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=turbo&Number=256308&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1

Another alternative I was just informed of is the Lovejoy connectors. Don't know to much about them. But it could save you time and money. Something I wish I had both of after not seeing these before hand. Again these are a must see for vortech systems.

http://www.directindustry.com/soc/lovejoy/backlash-free-couplings-7199-59843.html?&RefCat=L

Jackson Racing supercharger for Focus Zetec on Contour- Here is a brief list of what had to be done:

Install went according to the instructions but a few things had to "made"

-A plate to block off the EGR (for us 98+ Contours)
-Part of a bracket that the new intake manifold is supported on will need to fabbed
-You will need to get a IAC valve from a Focus.....the Contour IAC connector goes out in a 90 degree angle (which will hit the intake manifold)...the Focus connector goes out straight
- to get the alternator bolts in you will have to raise the engine
-if you have a UDP you will need to find your stock one.....Underdriving the S/C will give lower boost
-you will basically have to eliminate the cruise control....the way TB bolts up to the S/C the bracket sits kind of high....so a Dremel is you friend-----cut the piece of braket where the C/C goes....didn't matter to me....I never use it.
-CTA would probably be a better option for a "bolt on" intake....all I had to do is cut it and reverse it.

Other than that we just followed the instructions.

where can I buy the kit?

Thanks for your response.I checked it out.unfortunately,they don't make a kit for atx.

I FOUND A TURBO KIT FOR UNDER $200!!1!

OMG LOLOZORS!!1! 1M GOING TO GO RACE AND BEAT EVERYONE EVEN THEm TRANSAMS!!1!

I mean, how awesome is that!! I spend nothing and get what others pay $5000 for. It almost looks unsafe...BUT THIS IS EBAY!!!11 How COOLZZORS!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7945507474&category=33742

On another note. Do those heat shields really make a difference.

If so where do you purchase them?

I wish I had turbo...but maybe on my next CSVT - my old girl would probably blow her pistons right out.

I hope your joking about that paperweight you listed from ebay.

most people just make their own heatshield and yes, they do make quite a big difference in stand still traffic.

Yes I was making a joke hence the hacker/noob/ricer talk

I laugh at ppl buying them.

Thanks about the heatshield too, I will search the forums to see if someone has listed a How-To

I am going to put a turbo kit on from Az dyno I was just wondering what all of you thought would be good upgrades for the engine. diamond pistons etc... to make the engine last awhile. What all would you do if money was not an issue.

Depends on how fast you want to go.

"What all would you do if money was not an issue". Is this not the case? If money is no issue than i don't know what pistons to go with. I got diamond pistons. Those should work fine. I would bore it sleeve it, I would Buy titanium rods and shave the crank. balance the engine . THis could quite literally keep going and going and going...........no i simply undersand what you mean. IF you want 400whp its recommended to get forged rods and pistons. If you are going to be under that get custom pistons, main bearings and stronger rod bolts. someone else can fill in or recommend something else i missed.

OK lets say you did want over 400whp what would you do to the engine to make it handle the horse power.

Buy Suneils car. It already does 400 wheels and will save you months of hassle.

Yes I saw that car on e-bay but it didn't meet the reserve. That car is awsome and the buy now price was only 18k. The only problem is I already have a 99csvt with only 26k miles on it.

I already did it once and sold it to The Ford Guy on these forums. Here is a quick break down.

Engine:
99 SVT block - 300

9:1 Diamond Racing pistons - 700
Chrome steel Total Seal rings
Custom wrist pins
Pauter rods - 1030
Clevite 77 rod bearings -100
Federal Mogul main bearings
Street Flight turbo kit - 5000
T3/4 upgrade - 550
Custom P&P heads 3L valves ���?? 1400
Custom 3â�?� exhaust â�?��?? 400
Turbo XS boost controller - 70
Focus SVT fuel pump - 85

Transmission:

Torsen ���?? 650
SPEC III ���?? 399
Shifter ���?? 30
Stage II axles ���?? 700

Wheels/tires/suspension/other:

Kumho Mx ���?? 600
Ground Control ���?? 450
Koni struts ���?? 540
Street Flight RSB ���?? 90
Sub frame connectors - 150
Battery kill switch - 40

That's $13284 plus labor and other misc stuff you will need. Sell your car and buy Suneil's.

Is that all it would cost. Ok then I'm going to do it. I have talked with Az dyno and he could pretty much do it all. I think I will get better valve springs and baer brakes. Is there any other good mods I could do that you haven't listed

This is to the guy who mentioned the lovejoy connectors. they are for connecting electric motors to drives. they can take some misalinment depending on the insert. I run a power transmission warehouse and i know these types of products well. And by power transmission it does not mean automobile transmissions. any questions email me @ armyboy6310@gmail.com
joe

I know about lovejoy connections - I use to use them on industrial (mining)equipment. The intended use in this application is ONLY to drive a supercharger - NOT the transmission!

so are there any supercharger kits under $3k for the svt?
btw im new and am coming from an escort POV

If you want to smash a newb, you can at least point him in the right direction. Use the search criteria below.

Thomas Knight supercharger