Nitrous is not like the movies. You canā??t just slap on a 200 shot and expect your motor to live long. First thing you need to do if you are considering nitrous is learn as much as you can. There are many places on the internet that can help and books that explain how it works. Another thingā?¦.it NITROUS, not NOS. N.O.S is a company that makes nitrous kits and it stands for Nitrous Oxide Systems. Here are a couple things to know.
-What size shot can your car handle?: As a general rule, you can spray 50% of what your base engine horse power is. So for an SVT which is rated at 200 hp, the largest you would want is 100 shot.
-What is needed for nitrous?
Needed items: Nitrous Kit, colder plugs with a smaller gap, and common sense when using it.
Recommended items: Purge kit, window switch, bottle heater, A/F gauge, nitrous gauge, fuel pressure gauge, and chip.
-Plugs: A general rule for plugs is one step colder for every 50-75 hp. Start off with one step colder and monitor the plugs for flecks of aluminum, a sure sign of detonation. Do not ever run platinum or splitfire type plugs, copper is what you want. Gap the plugs smaller than normal plugs. Nitrous companies recommend .035 but the odds of ā??snuffing outā? your spark are very small. Most people run a .040-.045 to get a better burn.
-Timing: As another general rule it is recommend that you retard the timing 1-2* for every additional 50 hp you add. By using a higher octane fuel you can get away with less timing and still be safe. But reducing the timing will lessen the chance of detonation and pinging.
-Octane: When using nitrous in any quantity it is best to use a higher octane fuel. Higher octane fuels reduce the chance of detonation. Avoid detonation and pinging like the plague. It will spell certain disaster for a nitrous injected motor. A bottle of octane booster is not a bad idea either, but should not take the place of higher octane fuel.
-Wet, Dry, or Direct Port: Wet kits use one nozzle to supply both the nitrous and fuel into the intake. Dry kits spray the nitrous into the intake and use the existing injectors to supply the extra fuel. Direct port systems supply the nitrous and fuel to each individual intake runner on the motor, or one per cylinder.
I will go over the Venom Kits.
The Venom kits will work with any year Contour V6. They work with both returnless and return style fuel systems. Both kits are computer controlled and tap into your injectors, O2 sensor, and TPS. With the computer control you get A/F monitoring, which means if you start to run lean the nitrous will automatically be shut off. They also use the existing injectors to compensate for the fuel that is needed due to the extra air (nitrous). These kits are in my opinion the safest you can buy.
VCN-1000 - This is the basic nitrous kit with all the safety precautions just not all the frills. The VCN-1000 comes with the computer control box, bottle, lines, wiring harness and 4 nitrous nozzles to select the shot size (25, 50, 75, 100).
VCN-2000 - This is the kit with it all. The VCN-2000 kit comes with computer control box, bottle, lines, wiring harness, digital display module, and a variable valve. With this system you need a computer to download to the control box the points at which you can set throttle angle, RPM activation, and percentage of nitrous. There are 3 different modes to choose from Linear, Drag, and Timed. Linear mode starts with a small shot and works its way up to the full selected output. In the drag setting the full selected shot is sprayed when the activation RPM is reached. And finally timed is for the turbo people. It will spray for 3-4 seconds, by that time the turbo is spooled up and can take over. The digital display lets you keep an eye on what is going on. It features RPM, nitrous status, mode, exhaust (rich or lean), and injector pulse width.