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Damn, who knew it could get this bad? If you havent done it already, I guess you should? In a tutorial I saw pictures of a 1998 mystique with clogged up passages, it was pretty nasty. I figured mine would be even worse... and it was, being a '96 and all. Talk about a Ford design flaw. Here are some pictures I took. In this picture, you can see the carbon build-up along the passages just under the entrance to the UIM.  Here it shows how I did it. I stuck an old sock in the manifold opening, so that I dont spray too much Throttle Body cleaner inside, and to catch anything from falling in there. The tin foil did a pretty good job at catching the stuff as I cleaned it out.  An overview look of what I had to do. Just detatch the accordion tube and MAF. Then take the throttle body off. Simple enough.  Sorry about the blurry pic, but heres a shot of how it looks after the cleaning. Big difference, mmkay?  Before/After Shot  Oh yeah, while I was in there I cleaned out my TB. Here's a before shot. I forgot to take an after shot though, but I got it to shine!  The carbon in the passages was so thick, that I had to use a screw driver to scrape it out. The wire brush did nothing for me. Supposedly all our duratecs get this. 
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Dang!!! I've been having some EGR CEL issues lately myself. Local shop said it would be 2 -3 hrs labor just to get to the EGR valve to see if it could be cleaned, from your post it doesn't look like it should take that long. How long did it take you to clean it? Did everything come apart relatively easily? Thanks.
1999 Contour SVT #1966/2760, Silver Frost/Midnight Blue
Koni Kit, Mille Miglia MM-S rims, B&M shifter, Stazi mesh, SFCs, optimized Y-pipe & TB, SS break lines, K&N drop-in, Infinity Kappa speakers, MTX amp/sub
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Funny thing is, I took mine off at about 75K to clean the passages and they were nearly spotless. Go figure.
E0 #36
'95 Ranger
'82 Honda CX500
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Originally posted by phd2be:
Dang!!! I've been having some EGR CEL issues lately myself. Local shop said it would be 2 -3 hrs labor just to get to the EGR valve to see if it could be cleaned, from your post it doesn't look like it should take that long. How long did it take you to clean it? Did everything come apart relatively easily? Thanks.
This is a relatively easy job. You just need to remove a few hoses and the throttle body. If I remember correctly, the hardest part about removing the throttle body were the two bolts underneath it. Just make sure that you don't drop the bolts into the engine bay.
Cleaning is also easy. You can check out the how-to that I made at:
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=10673
http://community.webshots.com/album/48338095ulxYWh
96 Contour SE
Duratec V6 24-valve 2.5L ATX
108,000 mi.
Replaced: crankshaft w/ DMD, EGR valve (clogged), EVR, DPFE, PCV valve, evap emissions hose & tube (cracked), window regulator (broken), LH & RH PCV tubes, UIM gasket (leak), ignition coil
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I was wondering if I was missing something. I have a CEL saying that my EGR is flowing too much and then not flowing enough and I thought about cleaning it. I looked at this post thinking this was a life saver for me, telling me how to do the cleaning and I don't see the EGR getting cleaned, just the UIM and the throttle body. Once again am I missing some thing?
Thanks, because i really want that damn code gone.
Later,
Eric
Just a Plain SE.
AKA Big Country
I maybe path914's B**** now, but wait until he needs his clutch done. We will see WHO is WHO's B**** then!
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Originally posted by myfastse:
I was wondering if I was missing something. I have a CEL saying that my EGR is flowing too much and then not flowing enough and I thought about cleaning it. I looked at this post thinking this was a life saver for me, telling me how to do the cleaning and I don't see the EGR getting cleaned, just the UIM and the throttle body. Once again am I missing some thing?
Thanks, because i really want that damn code gone.
Later,
Eric
Well when I started to write this post, it started out as a how-to. But then I figured that there is already a how-to on this website, so I just decided to show some before/after shots of mine to just let some people who dont know, how important this may be.
By the way, this was easy as hell. I havent done something like this before, and it took me under two hours. Most of the time was spent cleaning the damn thing. Just make sure you get some sort of wire to shove into the hole leading to the valve, so you can clean that area as much as you can. Just do a search, and the how-tos can be found. This site doesnt need another one. If you have any other questions, many of us know what to do and we can answer them.
By the way, my code still hasnt come back after resetting the computer. *knock on wood*
edit:
Originally posted by myfastse:
I was wondering if I was missing something. I have a CEL saying that my EGR is flowing too much and then not flowing enough and I thought about cleaning it.
That sounds like its maybe the valve itself giving you trouble. You can try and clean it to make sure, but if its clogged it wouldnt say theres too much flowing.
Last edited by lithium398; 07/03/03 07:01 PM.
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Your EGR problem as you describe it may be a DPFE sensor problem like mine was. Check your EGR valve before you replace it. To test the EGR valve, get a length of hose from your local auto parts store that will fit over the EGR vac hose connection. Start the car, let it idle, unplug the vac hose from the top of the EGR valve, put your new length of hose on the nipple & pull a vacuum on the EGR valve (suck on the hose) If the car continues to idle fine, you've got a bad valve. If it sputters (or even stalls) & you have to continue to apply more & more vacuum, you've got a bad valve. If it sputters & you can keep it running rough by crimping the hose, then the valve is in good shape & your DPFE sensor may be ka-put - like mine was. 
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Thanks everyone for the complete and quick responces. I have seen before that the "big" nut one the EGR is 1 1/16 in diameter. Is this correct as I will go buy an open end wrench for it. Thanks again.
Eric
Just a Plain SE.
AKA Big Country
I maybe path914's B**** now, but wait until he needs his clutch done. We will see WHO is WHO's B**** then!
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I wouldn't bother with the EGR valve itself unless you know for sure that its bad. Most of the failures are from clogged EGR passages within the UIM as shown above. There are other hoses and valves that could cause problems as also mentioned. 
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I am checking prices on the items as I am going to fix what ever it is this weekend. Is this the DPFE Sensor that you talked about and where is it? LOL Part
Just a Plain SE.
AKA Big Country
I maybe path914's B**** now, but wait until he needs his clutch done. We will see WHO is WHO's B**** then!
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