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well after about two weeks, car was only driven one because we were waiting for rear brakes pads, the CEL came back on. It happened while I was parked, idling infront of a bank waiting for my friends to use the ATM.
I am going in a few minutes to get the code read again but I feel it is the same one.
I will look at our Ford Service Manual for our 95s in a while also but does anyone have a good way to test to see if the problem is the EGR valve or the DPFE sensor?
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I went through this with my SE the first day I bought it. The light will come back. Perform the TB cleaning at your leisure.
I also had to replace the DPFE at the same time. I still had the original aluminum case DPFE on my car. The new DPFE was made of black plastic - probably recycled water pump impellers.
JimR
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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sorry if it wasn't clear but we have cleaned the throttle body hoping that would solve the problem
We think since the car idles fine it is not the EGR valve. So that would only leave the DPFE sensor right?
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Originally posted by brapple:
sorry if it wasn't clear but we have cleaned the throttle body hoping that would solve the problem
We think since the car idles fine it is not the EGR valve. So that would only leave the DPFE sensor right?
Correct, sort of. If you want to check your EGR valve, just get a short length of tubing from the auto parts store. It should be a small diameter size to fit the nipple on the EGR valve.
1. Unplug the stock vac hose from the valve & plug in your blank length.
2. Start the car & put a vacuum on the tube (suck on it if you don't have a pump).
3. If the car stumbles or stalls the valve may be good. To verify:
4. Apply vacuum until the car stumbles, if you can hold a constant vac by pinching the hose to keep the car running rough then your valve is good, no leaks.
Now its time to focus on the DPFE.
The older aluminum body DPFE units had a tendency to accumulate corrosion & fail (like mine).
The DPFE is just a little tricky to get to, even though it is in plain sight just below the EGR valve. Its held in place with two bolts & has two vacuum hoses plugged into it. If you're just a little handy & your arms are not gorilla size this should be a 4 out of 10 on the difficulty scale - just keep track of the hoses (see my signature below).
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Originally posted by brapple:
sorry if it wasn't clear but we have cleaned the throttle body hoping that would solve the problem
We think since the car idles fine it is not the EGR valve. So that would only leave the DPFE sensor right?
Did you clean all the passages? The TB itself isn't causing this problem, the clogged passages were the culprit on my car. Make sure you get ALL that crap out of there before you spend money on a part that won't fix the problem. I had the PO402, had to clean the passages twice before the CEL stayed off. I would give the cleaning one more shot.
1999 Toreador Red SVT, DOB 4/22/99, 2005 Of 2760.
"Many posted questions are answered by farm boys"
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my father did the cleaning so I don't know completly what he did but I am fairly certain that along with the throttle body he cleaned the passages behind the throttle body. He did this on his car after he got the throttle body off because he wanted to clean it
like I said I drove the car a week before the light came back on with the same code. infact it shut off this morning and turned back on when we pulled in our driveway tonight and the car just sat and idled very shortly
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I'd hate to bring up an older thread - but the issues in this thread is what I'm experiencing right now. I had a P0402 while idling in traffic. Car still ran fine. Reset PCM. P0402 came back after a day or two. Again while idling. Car ran and idled fine. However, yesterday, I went to start her up - went inside to grab something I forgot and went back outside....car stalled. Started her up fine - idled fine until it settled down to about 600rpm, then it stumbled like it would stall, but then catch itself. I have an older aluminum DPFE sensor housing - and its in bad shape from its appearance. What does the car stumbling like that indicate? The EGR Valve is a PITA to change, isn't it? I quickly read the Haynes book last night and I have to remove the nut from the rear manifold.  Or do I? Any help?? Thanks. 
Hugo
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98 SVT - 53k mi - SOLD
04 Mazda3 S 5-Dr
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the cel from idling in traffic sounds like what my problem was/is. my conclusion lead me to the dpfe sensor.
as for the bad idle that sounds like a egr valve, that can be tested by applying vac to it and see how it effects idle. a correctly working one will not effect idle I beleive.
be systematic when you check things and you should be able to find out what is wrong
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OK. Well, I know all passages are clean since I just performed the Intake Overhaul including the TB less than 1k miles ago.
I don't have a vacuum pump - so by doing the test indicated above, the hose should go on the EGR valve itself - where the green vacuum line is normally located right?
What is done to the actual line when unplugged? Does that need to be plugged up?
Does a failing DPFE sensor cause any abnormalities in teh way the car runs, other than just tripping the CEL?
Thanks for the help.
Hugo
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98 SVT - 53k mi - SOLD
04 Mazda3 S 5-Dr
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as for the vac test I am not sure what exactly you do, I wasn't around when my father tested the egr valve. I suppose you would take one of the hoses off the dpfe and apply a vac to it
from what I saw a failing dpfe doesn't do much then throw a cel. I think the gas milage went way down but then again that could be my driving so I am not 100% sure
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