Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting NEED HELP QUICK!!! CEL light on need to fix now!!

ok, i went to Advance Auto Parts to get the check done, they said they don't do that anymore cause someone broke the machine to do it with, so i go down the street to Auto Zone and the guy had it checked for me in less than a minute, the code for it was 0302. So i guess that means it's P0302 and the machine said that it was "number 2 cylinder misfiring" so i go to buy some OE plugs and they only had 5 so i got them cause money is kinda tight at the moment and get them all in so far except for the #1 plug. and i got to start the car and see how it runs but, it still does it, so i start to get angry and then calm down and look over everything, i look at the #2 wire and it looks as if it may have been a spot for some arcing or burned from the UIM (which seems really hot for some reason since i changed my thermostat) so is it my wire, the number one wire looks to be burned from the intake manifold the plastic wrap around it is melted

Didn't I tell you to POST the codes BEFORE buying anything??

You said OEM plugs which ones did they give you?
Note here on the CEG bang fo the buck the Motorcraft double platium. "AGSF 32PPM or the Autolite equivilent. sorry brain lock. I know the Motorcraft cause I keep the one of the empty boxes on a shelf above the computer.
Anyhow I know for sure the plug works. My Ole laptop with www.obd-2.com software and have found misfires on new OEM plugs after a few thousand miles and not the misfires that would be bad enough to cause the CEL light to flash.
What this is is a test that is part of the OBD II mandate that monitors all the time and logs into the history. You can actually have misfires and not even tell it driving.
Anyhow after replacing OEMs, Bosch Platiums 15000 ago everytime I run the test not one misfire. The mileage on a trip went from 29.8 to 30.5 - 31.8 mpg. Which reminds me time to get the laptop out again the around town mileage is dropping time to run some tests.

Paul
98 Mystique LS (07/97)
DMD

hmm ok, well check this out, i got plugs and wires yesterday, and today i went to go start it up and see how it ran BIG MISTAKE!!!!!!!!!!!! I don't know what's wrong with it now, the plugs are Autolite AP764 and the wires are Autolite 96644 I tried starting the car 4 times all together, the first time, it felt like it was running on about 2 cylinders, and the second time it wouldn't even turn over, the third time, there was a lil pop out of the exhaust, and the last time it wont even turn over now, almost like the battery is dead, but it's not. I have the plugs gapped at .054 I need to have this fixed asap, someone please help!!!!!!!!! i'm pretty sure i have the wires ran right.

I'll go out on a limb here and postulate that your plug wire connections at the coil are wrong.

Another limb, maybe - hydro lock?

I had a problem in a car a few years ago where a couple injector drivers in the PCM went full on all the time and filled 2 cylinders with fuel real fast. Engine won't crank no how under those condix + you can mess the engine's bottom end up BIG time if you continue to try to start it.

soooo???? I have the wires plugged by what the pack says, and i have the two grounds that mount with the pack also, i don't know if i'm thinkin to hard on this and overlookin a simple mistake but i'm really getting frustrated with this, i don't know what it is. If the part of the engine you mentioned is filling with fuel what will happen if i start the car? will it ignite or no? I wanted to have this done by friday night, and it's turned into a whole weekend just to change plugs and wires, i don't know why it's taking so long for this, i'm gettin tired of just lookin at it now.

Since this particular symptom developed immediately after you changed the plugs and wires, my previous comment stands as posted.

If you have not consulted a correct wiring and coil layout diagram, do so.

If your wire installation proves to be correct, start swapping old wires back in one at a time. You may have a defective wire in the new set.

Hopefully, you did properly gap the plugs before installation.

ok, i rechecked the wires and gap size again (.054) and started the car up, it's running but it's back to how it was again when it started missing, it's not as bad as it was when it was first missing but, it's missing, i checked the vaccum lines and i also put in some fuel injector cleaner and it still misses. i'm gonna do the individual wire swap projectsho89 and see if that's it, thanks for your info so far, i really appreciate it, is there any way i can take it back up to auto zone and see if they can do it really fast by testing the wires while the car runs? I seen it done before on Crank and Chrome (mechanic show on tv) and they took some tester device and touched it against each wire as they were lookin for the bad one and found it, would auto zone have this or no? I'm also thinkin it's the wires cause the boots on them are funky, they don't go right in like the motorcraft or even the factory wires did, you gotta wiggle'em around and then push and feel for the snap instead of just pushing them right in and getting the snap right away.

does anyone else have some ideas? cause i gotta get this done by tonight the latest, I have a E0 SVT and it's missing somewhere, i bought new wires and plugs (some supposedly OE replacements by Autolite, i know iknow, but money is tight now, this is just temporary) and it's running but missing, i put in some injector cleaner and that's it so far, only ran the car for about 10min. altogether since it's been acting funny (missing)