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#674761 07/14/03 09:36 PM
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Originally posted by Kennard:
Originally posted by TourDeForce:


My problem turned out to be the double platinum plugs. I either got two bad sets in a row, or my car just does not like them. I installed a set of OE single platinum plugs & it has been flawless since.







AHA ! According to the Ford parts guy (NOT the service guy, he's a SpEd) "the Zetec (and possibly the Duratec too?) takes a special fine wire plug. It will fire under low voltage whereas the non OE plugs won't", which is why at WOT my car ran fine, and at part throttle and at idle it would miss. Un-FREEKIN-believable !!! All this stress and work and talking and asking, and it's nothing but the plugs. So to any of you experiencing bucking who have just changed their plugs, go IMMEDIATELY to your local Ford dealer and get the specific plug for your application. The parts guy said "you'll see the catalog number is extremely long because there are many specific plugs for some of these Ford engines". It may not help you all, but I'm betting it will help alot of you. Good luck, Ken 99 SE Zetec




KUDOS to you Ken for going the extra mile & doing some technical research for us!! Thanks man!


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
#674762 07/15/03 04:00 PM
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Originally posted by TourDeForce:
Originally posted by Kennard:
Originally posted by TourDeForce:


My problem turned out to be the double platinum plugs. I either got two bad sets in a row, or my car just does not like them. I installed a set of OE single platinum plugs & it has been flawless since.









KUDOS to you Ken for going the extra mile & doing some technical research for us!! Thanks man!




You did it, I read your post and asked myself "why does it matter with the make of plug ?" And did what came naturally. Anyway, it's just so bitchin having my little hot rod back. It was not happy with the bucking, and now she's got a smile on her face. Ken 99 SE Tour Zetec, ATX


Ken, 99 Silver Frost SE Zetec Atx, polished alloys, Kumho's, Pioneer hi power CD/AM/FM. Factory spoiler (added) Audi side lites, Borla stainless steel muff. Stolen, recovered in pieces. Looking for another Tour, preferably V6, 5 speed.
#674763 07/15/03 05:05 PM
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"It will fire under low voltage whereas the non OE plugs won't"

Does the ignition system raise the spark voltage in open loop?


'98.5 SVT E1 T-Red, Midnight Blue All stock
#674764 07/16/03 04:24 PM
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Originally posted by LI-SVT:
"It will fire under low voltage whereas the non OE plugs won't"

Does the ignition system raise the spark voltage in open loop?




I do not know that, sorry. I just know, through the process of elimination, that at low rpm's, or low rpm's with any electrical accessories on, including a/c, that my car would miss, which then caused it to buck. The Ford parts guy told me that non-OE plugs, although the non-Ford parts houses will tell you that the Autolites and other accessory plugs are interchangeable, will not work properly. Because you have to have the fine wire, low resistance plugs. When my car is at idle and the headlights and especially with the a/c also on, it dims the lights when the a/c cycles. So I know the elec system is not outting out beau coup power to the ignition system either. And my car only missed at idle, and at low rpm while driving. Once I tipped into the throttle and built some revs it would run fine. And once I had brand new plugs in it, with low resistance (because they were new and perfect and non carboned) the car would run good. But the slightest amount of resistance in the Autolites and the car would start to miss, and buck. The Motorcraft plugs are duh bomb. I have no missing, no bucking, nothing but pure, sweet, Ford horsepower, yahoo !!! Ken 99 Silver Frost SE Zetec ATX


Ken, 99 Silver Frost SE Zetec Atx, polished alloys, Kumho's, Pioneer hi power CD/AM/FM. Factory spoiler (added) Audi side lites, Borla stainless steel muff. Stolen, recovered in pieces. Looking for another Tour, preferably V6, 5 speed.
#674765 07/16/03 11:52 PM
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Thanks, for the I have your problem exactly except I have the Duratec engine. I will replace with Motorcraft at first opportunity. I don't have much faith in the dealership would anybody know the part number for the OE plugs for a 99 SE 2.5 Duratec. I am so looking forwad to getting my car back to pre plug change condition. Thanks


99 SE MTX KKM intake res removed Diablo Chip Ford 9mm sport wires
#674766 08/13/03 06:54 PM
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I had a similar problem after the 100K mile plug change. After numerous code readings, dead ends, and about $1400, it was cured by two things: (a) autolite double-platinum plugs (took care of part of the problem) and (b) 9mm plug wires (I had previously replaced the wires with dealer-supplied new wires, which did zip).

The forum did supply the info about the plugs. Plus, you get your choice of colors!

#674767 08/19/03 09:54 PM
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Originally posted by pctour:
Thanks, for the I have your problem exactly except I have the Duratec engine. I will replace with Motorcraft at first opportunity. I don't have much faith in the dealership would anybody know the part number for the OE plugs for a 99 SE 2.5 Duratec. I am so looking forwad to getting my car back to pre plug change condition. Thanks




Here's a cut-and-paste of a reply I made this evening to another post ...


Here's what happened to my '98 CSVT ... and how it was fixed.

I had the engine "bucking" problem at low/no throttle described in previous posts. It began with uneven accel and a change in the exhaust note, gradually worsened into a severe and re-creatable misfire-like condition (that did cause it to throw codes -- ultimately irrelevant -- and light up the CEL three times), then got to the point where the engine began to flat-out quit under load.

Because the car was at 54.8k, the basics were covered first: replaced fuel filter (Purolator), plugs and wires (Motorcraft). No money wasted -- but no fix, either.

Long story made short: the conscientious guys at the independent repair shop I've been using since my relo to Pittsburgh (Vince's Automotive on Rte 19 in Perrysville, for CEGer's in Pittsburgh) first rescanned the codes, then found a TSB that looked like a possible match with my problem: erratic engine performance triggering multiple codes. It was a match -- A 7-volt wire at the right-rear of the engine compartment, feeding power to 4 sensors, was being chafed at the right-rear engine lift mount; its sheathing had been worn through. Every time engine movement (or Dave, the tech at Vince's) brought it into contact with metal, the four sensors would freak, causing a misfire and/or kill the engine.

Sheathing was repaired; the chafing point of contact was covered with a short section of (I think) neoprene tubing; and the problem is gone.

#674768 08/20/03 02:17 AM
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Do you have a picture of this wire?? I am having bucking problems with my csvt too!!


98.5 Blk CSVT #6479 --------------------
#674769 08/20/03 07:10 PM
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Originally posted by David2k3:


Do you have a picture of this wire?? I am having bucking problems with my csvt too!!




Sorry, I don't. I wasn't working on the car at that point.

I'll get the details from the tech who diagnosed and fixed the problem, and post it.




#674770 08/21/03 07:47 PM
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Originally posted by Drumbo:
Originally posted by pctour:
Thanks, for the I have your problem exactly except I have the Duratec engine. I will replace with Motorcraft at first opportunity. I don't have much faith in the dealership would anybody know the part number for the OE plugs for a 99 SE 2.5 Duratec. I am so looking forwad to getting my car back to pre plug change condition. Thanks




Here's a cut-and-paste of a reply I made this evening to another post ...


Here's what happened to my '98 CSVT ... and how it was fixed.

I had the engine "bucking" problem at low/no throttle described in previous posts. It began with uneven accel and a change in the exhaust note, gradually worsened into a severe and re-creatable misfire-like condition (that did cause it to throw codes -- ultimately irrelevant -- and light up the CEL three times), then got to the point where the engine began to flat-out quit under load.

Because the car was at 54.8k, the basics were covered first: replaced fuel filter (Purolator), plugs and wires (Motorcraft). No money wasted -- but no fix, either.

Long story made short: the conscientious guys at the independent repair shop I've been using since my relo to Pittsburgh (Vince's Automotive on Rte 19 in Perrysville, for CEGer's in Pittsburgh) first rescanned the codes, then found a TSB that looked like a possible match with my problem: erratic engine performance triggering multiple codes. It was a match -- A 7-volt wire at the right-rear of the engine compartment, feeding power to 4 sensors, was being chafed at the right-rear engine lift mount; its sheathing had been worn through. Every time engine movement (or Dave, the tech at Vince's) brought it into contact with metal, the four sensors would freak, causing a misfire and/or kill the engine.

Sheathing was repaired; the chafing point of contact was covered with a short section of (I think) neoprene tubing; and the problem is gone.





... Well, almost. The violent bucking (where the tach would drop from 3000 to 1000 RPM and immediately bounce back up), the engine quitting under load and the code-throwing are gone.

But the much slighter stumble, when the A/C is on, is still there. Haven't broken the news to the repair shop, yet.

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