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Joined: Feb 2003
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CEG\'er
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 267 |
i think i may be in the market for a clutch soon and my question is this. for a 98 se 2.5 would a centerforce or equivalant be worht it? i dont ever race but i do drive "sporty" what i am concerned about is performance and clutch life....
any thoughts,
john
Works on contingency, no money down.....oh wait let me change a few things....Works on Contingency? NO, Money Down!!!!
98 Se in the works....
Looking for,
18'rs-6 or RS-5's SVT rear
FOUND!!!
SVT front (thanks SVTCuervo)
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Joined: Mar 2002
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Hard-core CEG'er
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i just put the SPEC Stage II from SPMotorsports in my SVT and i love it. it grabs a lot faster than the stock clutch, you'll also want to think about getting a new flywheel while everything is open.
"What did you think about that Dorothy girl?"
"The whole Judy Garland thing kinda turned me on. That doesn't make me some sort of fag does it?
"Nah baby, your money."
98 Black SVT #3560 of 6535
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,264
Hard-core CEG'er
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In most daily driving a normal clutch would last you the rest of your car's life. Although it has signifcantly less power than a Contour, my Jetta just had it's first replacement a few months ago, it's 21 years old ond has well over 400K on it. My Contour had just over 100K when I sold it, and it's clutch was still as grabby as the day I got the car.
If you plan on autocrossing or doing any hard running with the car, the extra money for a stronger clutch would maybe be a good idea but for a normally driven daily driver I really don't see a reason for it.
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Joined: Sep 2000
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if your car is just going to be lightly modded, i would stick with a SPEC stage 1.
Jim Hahn
1996 T-Red Contour SE Reborn 4/6/04
3.0L swap and Arizona Dyno Chip Turbo Kit
364 whp, 410 wtq @ 4,700 rpm
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Joined: Oct 2000
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Originally posted by beyondloadedSE:
if your car is just going to be lightly modded, i would stick with a SPEC stage 1.
...or get an SVT clutch and flywheel. Modest performance gain, slightly stronger clutch, OEM quality, and easier on the wallet.
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Joined: Apr 2002
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Originally posted by RogerB:
Originally posted by beyondloadedSE:
if your car is just going to be lightly modded, i would stick with a SPEC stage 1.
...or get an SVT clutch and flywheel. Modest performance gain, slightly stronger clutch, OEM quality, and easier on the wallet.
Yep...talked with both Eric at BAT, and Terry Haines at HMS Motorsports, and they both were inclined that the stock clutch is good for up to 240hp...if...if..if...you're not ham fisted with shifts and are good at not abusing the clutch...
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Joined: Sep 2000
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Originally posted by beyondloadedSE:
if your car is just going to be lightly modded, i would stick with a SPEC stage 1.
The Stage 1 is more than strong enough for any NA Duratec (2.5L or 3L) You will never get close to it's rated safe TQ limit (290lb/ft = ~265 FWTQ)
When I upgrade my tranny parts the stage 1 is my choice for a clutch.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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OEM SVT LUK clutches are good clutches and I know I can get a whole clutch kit from LUK for about $250 or less. They come with clutch disc, pressure plate, slave cylinder and the alignment tool. With the proper break in, they have proven themselves time and time again on a TON of SVT Contours up to 100K and beyond! That says a lot! Greg, when you're right (which is 99.9% of the time  ) you're right! The Spec stage I clutch is more than enough for most out there (2.5L AND 3L's), and that steel backed organic lining is really good IMO. People need to start to avoid going overboard with the clutch they put in their car. Why get a clutch that's made to handle gobs more power than your car will ever see, get all the harshness from the more extreme clutch and maybe even cause un-needed powertrain wear from the added wheel hop and vibrations you will see from it?  Do yourselves a favor (and your cars) and get the correct clutch for the correct application. Going overboard on the clutch you put in your car is like what I see way too many people do in Utah. They buy these super duty Ford trucks and giant SUV's, slap 8"+ lifts on them, 38"+ tires, and eveything else you can think of for a grocery getter and they are never going to see any off-road in it's life. Iguess some people like to go overboard and get something that COULD handle more, but never will. 
2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone 
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Joined: Mar 2001
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Would an SVT clutch and flywheel work for a 1997? I'm probably needing a new clutch soon and dont really want to spend alot of money for a new clutch! Since just the labour alone is painful  Does anyone have a clue what a svt clutch and flywheel would cost me? And would I really notice a major increase?
1997 T-Red Contour
V-6 MTX
It HaS BeGuN!!!!!!!!!!!
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Joined: Aug 2001
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Originally posted by mcgainer:
Yep...talked with both Eric at BAT, and Terry Haines at HMS Motorsports, and they both were inclined that the stock clutch is good for up to 240hp...if...if..if...you're not ham fisted with shifts and are good at not abusing the clutch...
More! Good for 240 at the wheels maybe. SVT clutch is the way to go for any non turbo or really high performance 3L.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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