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I've had similar results during the dry winter months. Go to a car wash and then the squeak is gone for some time, but then it comes back again


1999 Contour SVT #1966/2760, Silver Frost/Midnight Blue Koni Kit, Mille Miglia MM-S rims, B&M shifter, Stazi mesh, SFCs, optimized Y-pipe & TB, SS break lines, K&N drop-in, Infinity Kappa speakers, MTX amp/sub
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Originally posted by SVTour98:
in the FAQ on the homepage there should be something about a clip that holds the emergency brake line underneath the car. mine made noises over bumps also, i sprayed it down good (i believe on both sides of the car, this was like 2 years ago...) and haven't heard the noise since then. its a star shaped rubber grommet that holds the emergency brake line, you probably need to duck under the car just in front of the rear wheels to see it. try soaking it in some spray (wd-40, lithium grease, etc...) and see if that fixes it.



I believe there was a tsb on this waaaay back (which may also be mentioned in the FAQ) that the gromet needs to be moved to a different position. IIRC there's a diagram on how to do it.
Many have had this squeak problem on here who also did the bushings and still had the squeak. After they did the e-brake cable tsb, the squeak was eliminated.


Kim 1995 Contour GL Needs less "needs more"
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Could be that your bushings wore out again. My baby's got a freakin fetish for those things. They aren't that expensive though. It was less than $65 or so to have my dealer install them. Which means that if I'd replaced them myself it would have been like $10 maybe.....


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Old thread baby!!!!!!


1998.5 E1 SVT Contour #5482/6535
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Hi,

I've had the same problem with creaking suspension. On a wet day...it will go away. So I suspect a stupid little lubrication issue on the rear sway bar.....soon as the weather get a little warmer( I'm in Canaduh) I will try this myself with some Rustcheck...it's a good lube. Lithium is probably better but the Rustcheck tends to creep into little voids much easier.
I just replaced my spark plugs on 2.5 V6. I used "Bosch Platinum +4". They are about the best that money can buy in my opinion. Mileage and smoother performance was immmediate. I also used some anti sieze compound as this will be critical to removal next time round as they could sieze. I also coated boots and plugs with electrolytic grease to aid in their removal next time and help prevent any possible arcing.
As for the stiff suspension....well I guess your kinda' stuck. I too get complaints, especially from my wife. I want to do something about this as well. You could go with softer springs but that would sacrifice handling. "Munroe Sensimatic" struts might help a little but again, its really the stiff springs and they are set at one stiffness. If you get any other feedback in this regard ...let me know

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Does anyone know what the TSB is for what frenchblueC2 is referring to above? I have the exact same problem. However, the more people that are in the car, the worse it is. Im thinking it could be the springs? Of course I havent even been under the car yet.


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Originally posted by mozha:
I just replaced my spark plugs on 2.5 V6. I used "Bosch Platinum +4". They are about the best that money can buy in my opinion. Mileage and smoother performance was immmediate. I also used some anti sieze compound as this will be critical to removal next time round as they could sieze. I also coated boots and plugs with electrolytic grease to aid in their removal next time and help prevent any possible arcing.



negative, the +4s are terrible plugs. My mpg dropped from 23 to 19 mpg (and as low as 17 mpg) over the course of 20k miles in 2 years, 3 months. Replaced them with autolite app764 and the mpg immediately jumped back to normal. my suggestion, remove them immediately, as it won't get better before it gets worse.


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I also greased the boots inside with silicone grease, real good idea to prevent misfires. For plugs, use the Autolites listed above next time, as the Bosch plugs will wear faster then the originals (Bosch are not double platinums)

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Just an update. Try replacing the little hard rubber bushing that goes with the rear sway bar bushings. The bushing fits into a control arm and is a bit of a pain to put in. Use a little silicone to slide it in and a sturdy screwdriver to wedge it in the middle of the control arm. The part only costed $3 each.

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