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When I had my transmission apart I discovered why my shifting was sometimes stiff, especially when cold. My shift forks were so difficult to move on the shafts that I had to use two hands! They should just slide off the shaft if you turn it on its end. I spoke with Terry Haines about the issue and he explained that the MTX-75 is still undergoing changes in synchros and shift forks although they are only for the zetec powered focus.
I did some work and located the part numbers for the following shifter forks from the 2000+ MTX-75 Zetec Focus (NOT the FSVT!)
In all the contours since they went to cable shifters the shift rods use a metal bushing inserted into the ends where the shaft rides. This is a babbet type of bearing material (like rod bearings) according to Terry Haines. Apparently as the transmission parts break-in and metal particles get suspended into the oil, a process called deposition occurs where the metal particles deposit onto the bushing material. The end result over time is a thickening of the material and a reduction in the inner diameter of the bushing making for higher friction.

Symptoms:
-Difficult to shift when cold, worse after sitting for an extended period of time.
-Sluggish shifter feel.
-Broken shifter cables. (This happened to me under warranty and they replaced it but never solved the problem. It is easy to see why it broke on the 3-4 upshift because of how unbearable tight that particular fork was in my transmission)
-'Rough-feeling' engagement of the gears, possible grind in certain gears.
-Popping out of gears on quick shifts (caused by the shift fork not allowing the blocker ring to fully seat due to the tension on the shaft)
-unable to shift into a particular gear.

1-2 shift fork: New ball bearing inserts instead of bushings. It just flys down the shaft now!!!!

2-3 shift fork: Updated fork. Has a plate riveted to it that catches slung-off oil and drips it back onto the synchro's for better lubrication at speed. The old fork has the plate but not the same drip-holes for the oil. Still uses the bushings.

5-R shift fork: No apparent change.

The 3-4 gears are on the primary input shaft of the transmission and the shift fork is by itself on its own shaft.
5-R and 1-2 share the other slightly longer shaft

The Part Numbers: List price: (should be cheaper)

1-2 Fork: XS8Z 7230 DD $18.28
3-4 Fork: YS4Z 7230 AD $24.98
5-R Fork: YS2Z 7230 BA $17.57

I have pictures of the transmission gearsets so that you can see what it looks like as well as the Torsen LSD, a comparison shot of the ball-bearing shift fork vs. old one, and a good shot of the synchro and blocker ring.
If someone can host them and attach them to this thread I would appreciate it. Email me at jebrant@earthlink.net for the photo's

**Please pin this post so we can add only part numbers for the MTX-75 as we get them, and keep the chatter to a minimum in this thread. We can start another thread to discuss the various implications. Please add in the part numbers and prices for things like the speedo gears, final drives, LSD's, carrier bearings, Ford Friction modifier, clutches, flywheels, etc. This can be an online reference so no one has to do the research over again.**

BTW installing the shift forks is SO EASY that it is a must do any time you pull the transmission apart for any reason, just for peace of mind like replacing a throw-out bearing.


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Zetec Speedo Gear.......F5RZ-17285-AA

Diff Carrier Bearings...F7RZ-4221-AC

Output Shaft Shim pack..F5RZ-7N135-AA

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You guys may find www.fordparts.com useful in estimating costs. It has list prices and sale prices.

I only mention this site because it is the best site I have found for looking things up by part number (be sure to use the dashes).


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Tom this is what I have installed on my trans and like I stated other posts it shifts like butta! Its unbeleivable. The shifter feel is excellent for a cable shift system. These are a must like you say for any trans that's opened up. Also reccomended is the focus shift tower, of which I also have. Just good insurance for those hard shifts. Ford makes some good parts just in the wrong combo, mix and match everything and you really get a good system! but


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Hey great idea warmonger! It sure beats having to search. Can anyone add the #'s for the focus shift tower upgrade as well as the Torsen diff, afterall it is a ford racing part.


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so how hard is it to install all this stuff without dropping the trans?


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Impossible to add without removing the transmission. The case must be cracked open. Best to do it when the clutch is done. No special gaskets, just a tube of Ford sealant and the shifter forks. Oh and a torque wrench!!!! They are easy to install, can only be installed one-way so no mistakes.
Mechanical Skill Level = Moderate

Oh well, so much for not cluttering this post with extra conversations.

The contour V6 MTX-75 speedometer gear part # is: F5RZ 17285 AA $6.30


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i thought TH said you could install the shifter tower without dropping the trans...


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The shift tower sits on top of the trans. It can be seen bey looking under the hood. The shift forks are enternal.


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Originally posted by livinsvt:
Hey great idea warmonger! It sure beats having to search. Can anyone add the #'s for the focus shift tower upgrade as well as the Torsen diff, afterall it is a ford racing part.


FRPP's part number for the Torsen unit is M-4204-F20.


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Originally posted by warmonger:
Oh well, so much for not cluttering this post with extra conversations.





My bad...sorry


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1-2 and 3-4 Synchros

MTX-75 Gears installed

Old Shift forks on rods

Old vs. New shift Forks

Spec Stage 3 Clutch

Torsen Diff


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So just for a quick reference, if a CEG'er were getting their transmission pulled (me for example ) what is everything someone should upgrade/replace/add in their transmission (are E0 and different than E1's for this)? Could somebody make a master list? Terry "Da Pimp" Haines maybe?


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Treat all of the contour MTX-75's built for 98 and up the same. Use these upgraded part numbers that we posted in here and you won't be wrong. The differential upgrade is optional, but the stock differential is notoriously weak, proven by many people on here! The shift forks are a must if yours are too stiff, or just plain good insurance if you pull it apart. Terry Haines can hook you up, but he is so busy it was easier to tackle this myself. You can always talk to your local Ford dealer or a good transmission shop about helping to set/shim the differential if you have trouble installing it or it looks like it won't fit correctly. Make sure to invest in the ford CDrom since it has the whole procedure on it.


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Any idea if these updated forks work on pre-98, rod shift transaxles?

-Lance


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I don't think these forks work on the rod shifters. Terry did say that the early 95 rod shifters had ball bearing'd forks though, but then they deleted them later.


Tom


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Can someone post the part numbers for the V6 4.06:1 gearset, in the event that someone might want to fit that to a 4 cylinder car's transaxle?


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I ordered these parts from Bill Jenkins and these are the Prices

Zetec Speedo Gear.......F5RZ-17285-AA LIST $6.30 BILL JENKINS PRICE $4.73

Diff Carrier Bearings...F7RZ-4221-AC LIST $17.58 BILL JENKINS PRICE $13.19

Output Shaft Shim pack..F5RZ-7N135-AA ??? Backorder

1-2 Fork: XS8Z 7230 DD $18.28 BILL'S PRICE $13.71
3-4 Fork: YS4Z 7230 AD $24.98 BILL'S PRICE $18.74
5-R Fork: YS2Z 7230 BA $17.57 BILL'S PRICE $13.18


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there are about 3 more shim packs in the nation by the ford national parts locator.there is one at a florida dealership i know for sure if its still there,but i cant remember the name at this time.thanks for all the great info and the part numbers.anyone get the number for the shift tower?and whats left of my shim pack will be up for grabs here real soon.


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The zetec fd part number(s) would be good to add to this thread. (hint hint)

I'd add it, but a number of searches didn't turn it up for me.

Dan


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From another post, but it should go in here:

Focus shift tower part numbers:

Shift Tower: XS4Z-7201-CD
Cable End Clamps: YS4Z-7412-JA and YS4Z-15520-BA

-Lance


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Does anyone have a hookup for the bearings, speedo gear and shims? I need to get my hands on this stuff right now..Ford has it backordered.....my car is comming apart and I want to get this stuff ready for when the trans is in my hands....


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Originally posted by Lance Kinley:
From another post, but it should go in here:

Focus shift tower part numbers:

Shift Tower: XS4Z-7201-CD
Cable End Clamps: YS4Z-7412-JA and YS4Z-15520-BA

-Lance




Don't forget about the jumper to make your reverse lights work: YS4Z-15525-BA

Don't worry...it's cheap

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OK, so if I purchase all of the folowing parts and install them with my Bondurant Tranny and Quaife, I should be golden, right? Any surprises to expect? The Zetec speedo gear is needed with the Quaife, and not the Duratec Speedo gear, right?

1-2 Fork: XS8Z 7230 DD $18.28
3-4 Fork: YS4Z 7230 AD $24.98
5-R Fork: YS2Z 7230 BA $17.57

Zetec Speedo Gear.......F5RZ-17285-AA

Diff Carrier Bearings...F7RZ-4221-AC

Output Shaft Shim pack..F5RZ-7N135-AA

Shift Tower: XS4Z-7201-CD
Cable End Clamps: YS4Z-7412-JA and YS4Z-15520-BA

Reverse light jumper- YS4Z-15525-BA

Thanks a million!~


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remember you need 2 diff carrier bearings. . .

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I currently have the Quaife in a different tranny. I think I will skip the Speedo gear as the one on it will work, but how about the carrier bearings? I am losing 3rd gear synchros so I think I will change the bearings just incase some metal shavings have damaged them. Any opinions?

BTW- None of the part numbers work on FordPartsOnline...


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Originally posted by Rev. Po-Jay:
I currently have the Quaife in a different tranny. I think I will skip the Speedo gear as the one on it will work, but how about the carrier bearings? I am losing 3rd gear synchros so I think I will change the bearings just incase some metal shavings have damaged them. Any opinions?

BTW- None of the part numbers work on FordPartsOnline...




The zetec and duratec speedo gears have the same part #!!
If your quaife is already fitted and you move it to the other transmission, all you will have to do is pull the ring gear and switch it to the one in the bondurant transmission. Your carrier bearings should not need replaced if you move the outer races over to the new transmission, assuming there are no pits in the bearings or the races that is. All you will have to do is move the races over and re-check the fit with your new diff. The synchros are brass so the brass particles are softer than the steel bearings. It is very unlikely that they could be damaged from a synchro grind. All you need to do is make sure that the synchros in the new transmission (new, used??) are in good shape and if they are you just swap over the diff as discussed.

Tom


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The tranny is brand new and has never been cracked by any other than Roush. Will the final drive ratio change in the new tranny cause any drama with my speedo?

Thanks for all of the useful information!


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No.

If the speedo gear drives the driven gear one revolution every time the differential spins once, then the gear ratio would be irrelevant.
For example, you change final drive ratio to the ZETEC FD of 3.86:1 from 4.06:1
Intuitively you think that the diff will spin slower. i.e. it only spins 3.86 times per 1 input revolution versus over 4 times per one revolution for the other FD.
Well, the speedo drive gear turns the same speed as the diff so its going slower too. Then, figure that the tires are also going slower because they are hooked directly to the diff without any other gear changes.
What will throw your speedometer off is changing tire sizes.

Now, don't get this confused with changing a final drive on a rear wheel drive vehicle! The rear wheel drive vehicle has the final drive in the back, AFTER the speedo gear measures the transmission output shaft speed. In this condition the output shaft speed remains constant while the wheels will spin at different speeds from the changed final drive and this change will not be reflected in the speedo. That is why some companies offer changing the speedo calibration in the computer to reflect gear changes. Those computers that read the sensor will have a different multiplier put in to compensate for the different final drive.

Again, you should have to do nothing except move your diff from the one transmission to the other along with the bearing races, and re-measure the shim thickness. While you are at it, upgrade those shift forks since they are easy.
You can do the shift tower later if money is an issue as it can easily unbolt while the trans is in the car.


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News flash.

The axle ratio is programmed into the PCM.

I would be surprised if the 2 gears were different actually. We are not talking old school direct drive cables to a mechanical speedometer.


Yes that also means for all those that installed the 3.84 final drive your speedometer and odometer are now off. Well unless you let the PCM know via a chip of course.


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#640246 10/03/03 11:43 PM
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
News flash.

The axle ratio is programmed into the PCM.

I would be surprised if the 2 gears were different actually. We are not talking old school direct drive cables to a mechanical speedometer.


Yes that also means for all those that installed the 3.84 final drive your speedometer and odometer are now off. Well unless you let the PCM know via a chip of course.




I won't argue that the gear ratio is in the computer, or that you can change the speedo by changing the ratio. However, nothing else changes if you change final drive gears and leave the computer alone. You will not get speedo error. What you will get with a different final drive is lower engine rpm AT the SAME speed.

Look at it logically: The speedo only measures axle rotation via the differential. The diff and the tires spin the same speed all the time as they are locked together. The speedo is driven off the diff.
In this situation nothing has changed by changing final drive gears, therefore the speedo will still report the same number of wheel revolutions as it did before.

On my chart, 180 tire revolutions is 13 MPH. So even if the diff had a different final drive, once it reached 180 revolutions the speedo will read 13MPH.
I hope you can see what I mean after this, I can't seem to put it any clearer and the explanation isn't that great.
BTW:
On our cars that final drive ratio slot in the computer is worthless.


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Originally posted by warmonger:
Look at it logically: The speedo only measures axle rotation via the differential. The diff and the tires spin the same speed all the time as they are locked together. The speedo is driven off the diff.
In this situation nothing has changed by changing final drive gears, therefore the speedo will still report the same number of wheel revolutions as it did before.

On my chart, 180 tire revolutions is 13 MPH. So even if the diff had a different final drive, once it reached 180 revolutions the speedo will read 13MPH.
I hope you can see what I mean after this, I can't seem to put it any clearer and the explanation isn't that great.
BTW:
On our cars that final drive ratio slot in the computer is worthless.




Woo hoo I get the argue linear logic vs computer programming...


The PCM most definitely uses the VSS signal for all it's speed calculations. We both agree on that.

I also agree the diff itself will spin at the same speed while the output shafts (CV's) will spin slightly slower with the 3.84 gear.

However that wasn't my point...

The PCM uses the figure entered in the axle ratio data point to calculate numerous functions of the PCM. (Yes based on the VSS signal and sometimes other sensors as well)
Since this figure is used for such things as odometer, speedometer, ABS wheel sensors, transmission shift points, etc all the calculations will be wrong since the actual output speed is slower with the taller gear ratio.
Since these calculations are now using a number that is no longer correct there will be incorrect/faulty readings because of it.

BTW there is also a data point for tire diameter as well. It's called "tire_revs_per_mile" and it also affects all the same calculations.
More food for thought.


Now the difference between 4.06 and 3.84 is only ~5% so it's not going to jump out and make a huge difference.

Heck the deviation of the stock Speedo is probably that bad above 60-70mph anyway...


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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by warmonger:
Look at it logically: The speedo only measures axle rotation via the differential. The diff and the tires spin the same speed all the time as they are locked together. The speedo is driven off the diff.
In this situation nothing has changed by changing final drive gears, therefore the speedo will still report the same number of wheel revolutions as it did before.

On my chart, 180 tire revolutions is 13 MPH. So even if the diff had a different final drive, once it reached 180 revolutions the speedo will read 13MPH.
I hope you can see what I mean after this, I can't seem to put it any clearer and the explanation isn't that great.
BTW:
On our cars that final drive ratio slot in the computer is worthless.




Woo hoo I get the argue linear logic vs computer programming...


The PCM most definitely uses the VSS signal for all it's speed calculations. We both agree on that.




Quote:


I also agree the diff itself will spin at the same speed while the output shafts (CV's) will spin slightly slower with the 3.84 gear.





I assume you mean the input shaft and internal gearing here? The axles and CV's will turn the same speed as the diff as they are plugged into it.
Maybe our error here is in defining our frame of reference. If your frame of reference is based on the same engine rpm with the 4.06 as it is with the 3.84 then this may be correct. However, I don't think that is the proper approach for this.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:

However that wasn't my point...

The PCM uses the figure entered in the axle ratio data point to calculate numerous functions of the PCM. (Yes based on the VSS signal and sometimes other sensors as well)
Since this figure is used for such things as odometer, speedometer, ABS wheel sensors, transmission shift points, etc all the calculations will be wrong since the actual output speed is slower with the taller gear ratio.
Since these calculations are now using a number that is no longer correct there will be incorrect/faulty readings because of it.





ONLY IF it uses engine RPM as part of the calculations...which it may.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:

BTW there is also a data point for tire diameter as well. It's called "tire_revs_per_mile" and it also affects all the same calculations.
More food for thought.





This would definitely be usefull and would affect the speedo output.


I can't help but feel that I am failing to get my point across. Other than the statement about the speedo being wrong with a final drive change, I don't have any disagreement. I'll try again as I'm sure you're going to do the old slap the forehead and say "I get it know" when I get you to see what I mean.

--The speedo is driven by the computer...agreed.
--The computer gets its signal from the VSS and calculates the speed as you have described....agreed.
--The VSS is driven by the speedo gear mounted on the diff housing....agreed???
--The diff speed is what the VSS actually is measuring....agreed???

***Assume stock wheels and tires***
--The diff speed is measured by the VSS in some fashion by corresponding to each individual revolution. It could be one electrical pulse per revolution or 2,3,4 pulses/rev though I suspect it is probably only 1 or 2....Agreed???

--Since the diff speed in Revolutions per minute is the same as the tire speed in Revolutions per minute, the VSS is directly measuring the tire speed in revolutions per minute. ...Agreed???

---Now, here is the point I'm trying to make:
the VSS is always measuring Tire revolution irregardless of engine RPM.
AT 53 MPH in 5th gear, the tires and the differential are turning 735.7 Revolutions per minute.
***with a 4.06:1 axle ratio, the engine RPM is 2300
***with a 3.84:1 axle ratio, the engine RPM is 2175

With the different final drive, the # of revolutions per minut of the tire is still 735.7 in order to get 53MPH, but you only have to go to 2175 engine RPM to get there.
Therefore the speedo drive system and the speedometer will always remain functional on this type of setup irregardless of the final drive you use.
******Another logical assumption*********
The PCM can't use engine RPM in its speed calculations. If the car were to stall out on the freeway, the key would still be on. Would the speedometer stop working? I hope not though I haven't tested it. This tells me that the speedometer displays only the tire rotational speed and that can only be taken from the VSS.

As far as all the other calculations I can only agree and it should not hurt to change it in your computer if you have acess to it. However, the bottom line will remain that the speedo should not be in error with just a final drive change.

( yes this is fun! )


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Now we have Parts Counter Express at Signature L/M. I am still updating it but it's gettnig better everyday.

I will be adding this kit as a special on the first page.


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have you added it yet?

HOw about a synchro kit? My #3 is going, and frankly, I might as well update the whole shibang with 2000 CSVT parts since I'm taking the tranny apart again. . .

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Do we have part numbers on synchros for all of 'em from a 2000 CSVT? That would be a helpful post. . .I searched over at Bill Jenkin's website, and he prices came up REALLY cheap, so I thought I might have found the wrong parts.

I'm grinding in third, so I want to replace everything since the tranny will be cracked open. . .

Suneil

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Deposition, huh?
Is there any good way to reverse this (other than changing the forks, of course) or to at least keep it from happening?
Thanks
Erik


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From what I understand, you will have to hone the material out of the bushing in the fork to get it out. It isn't practical because for $17 you get another fork.

The type of fluid affects this deposition and I'm taking a stab here that if you change your fluid more frequently it will have less metal particles floating around in it and less time to deposit into the babbit material.
If you have the problem now, change the forks and then at a minimum use recommended Ford fluids and change them frequently. I only changed my trans fluid once in the warranty period and that may have contributed to the problem. Now I will be sure to do it annually.


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Thanks for the info, War.
I see a little of it when cold. Certainly still driveable and usable as it is right now tho.
Changing the forks would be the ideal thing to do, but as I do not have a place to do it, nor more than likely the mechanical skills to do it myself, I would have to pay someone the obscene amounts of money necessary to pull the tranny and have it done. CLutch still seems plenty strong too, so I can't even use the replacement of that right now as a good excuse!
Probably a fluid change to one of the many synthetics available would not be a bad idea tho.
Erik


95 LX/SE V6 5 Speed NUN 1 http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/588083 "The Contour SE is the best American car I have ever driven and one of the best cars period." Larry Griffin - C&D
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Since this figure is used for such things as odometer, speedometer, ABS wheel sensors, transmission shift points




I'll give you transmission shift points. Those are controlled by the PCM.

However:

Odometer and speedometer==driven directly by the VSS. No connection to the PCM.

ABS wheel sensors == separate ABS module. No ABS functions AT ALL in the PCM.

All of this can be confirmed by studying the wiring diagram for the Contour.


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I now have this same feature. just go to this address.
Parts Counter Express

Originally posted by MotorCity:
You guys may find www.fordparts.com useful in estimating costs. It has list prices and sale prices.

I only mention this site because it is the best site I have found for looking things up by part number (be sure to use the dashes).




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So I've done a little searching around and I can find every part people are talking about except the shift forks. Since most shops are not keen on replaceing parts they did not order (especially Ford) who should I go to for a rebuild with these parts? I also want to install the Quaife differential.

I live close to Washtenaw community college in the Ypsilanti/AnnArbor mich. area. One option would be to go to the local community college and see if one of the instructors is cool with using my transmission for a rebuild in class. The labor would be free, since it is the students who are working on it. . I'd just pay parts. At least, that's what my friend tells me. he is a student there and has had his classmates do work on his 1975 Blazer occasionally.

Any other options in Michigan?


PS -- this is what that part of the alphabet would look like without Q and R.
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A2 eh? I know where the WCC is, that's where I took my MCAT when I was at Michigan. . .GO BLUE!

Ok, enuff of that, to your question, Call Bill Jenkins up at Signature LM ford or whatever it is, I just ordered the shift forks yesterday, they have them in stock dude, and they're CHEAPER than you'll get at any ford stealership, even though he is one. . .go figure. . .

AS for the quaife, contact SVTCuervo or someone else. . .they can hook you up with a Quaife or Torsen, I would go with the Torsen (maybe contact TorsenRick?) because it isn't as squeamish as the quaife (lots of wander). . .because it has a higher torque bias, like 3:1 vs. the quaife's 2:1.

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Talk to Chris (Keyser) about a Torsen.

The shifter forks are a factory FORD part.

If the dealership won't match Bill's prices or a shop won't install them without charging you 100-200% markup then find a new place to do business.

I am sure someone else will want your $800-1000 labor for the job.
Where do you live btw???


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When did the Torsen come out? I heard so many good things about the Quaife through this site, but I have heard very little about the Torsen until recently. how much do they cost compared to the Quaife?

Signiature Ford (Lincoln Mercury). I'll have to look them up. Are they located nearby, or would I be paying for shipping?

Right now, I'm just trying to gather information and see if there's a feasable plan to put into action. I know my trans needs to be replaced or rebuilt, but it's doing fine for everyday driving. I just can't let loose like I like to do from time to time. I like the idea of making these reccomended improvements, too. Especially the TBD.

I live in Ypsilanti, BTW. Nice little town, although it's a little rough around the edges, so to speak. Fun place to drive if you know your way around.

Speaking of that, ssmumich00, did you ever take a trip on Huron River Drive from the main st,/M14 area out toward Zeeb rd.? That's a fun route if you can catch it when there's no traffic.


PS -- this is what that part of the alphabet would look like without Q and R.
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FYI for everyone upgrading parts:

I bought the new shift tower, shift forks, shifter cable ends, and jumper for a total of $239.71 including priority shipping and a 15% charge on overnighting the shift tower. I ordered from Bill Jenkins.

Thanks Bill!


1999 3.0L Cougar: 220fwhp and 200tq 2003 VW Passat W8 with 4 Motion AWD http://www.cardomain.com/ride/300644 PM for intrest in 3L SVT Contours, 3L swaps into your current car, Prepped 3L engines, or anything 3L related.
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Just a clarification on the part numbers:

Shifter ends are:
YS4Z-7412-JA
YS4Z-7412-HA
Bill's Price for both: $11.62

The reverse sensor that mounts in the tower is:
YS4Z-15520-BA
Bill's Price: $31.91

The tower doesn't come with a cover and Bill couldn't find a part number for it but it is shown in the illistration which is odd.

I'll post how the parts all worked out when I get the reverse sensor.


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Originally posted by Blackcoog:


The tower doesn't come with a cover and Bill couldn't find a part number for it but it is shown in the illistration which is odd.

I'll post how the parts all worked out when I get the reverse sensor.




I need the cover too. Has anyone been able to get this part?


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Shift tower Cover:
YS4Z-7222-AC $8.93

3.84 ZETEC FD GEAR
YS4Z-7F343-FA $28.87

all Bill's prices. . .

I'll post part numbers for the updated synchro's soon. . .

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Here is a pick that bill set me. You may need to save it and make it bigger to see the numbers.


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Here are the part numbers:
Cone F8RZ-7M000-BB $39.65
SYN ASSEMBLY F8RZ-7124-BA $35.54
RING F5RZ-7107-A $28.03
RING F5RZ-7107-DA $10.05
SYN ASSEMBLY 97ZZ-7124-CB $39.74
SYN ASSEMBLY F8RZ-7124-AA $45.41
RING YM2Z-7107-EB $7.01
CONE 1S4Z-7M163-AA $27.83

These parts should be manufactured recently, mine were all made in 2003, AND most of them came from France or Germany. I don't know why these parts are coming from there, but I assume since the Contour is no longer made here, Ford is making MTX75 contour related parts over there. . .

Suneil


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Originally posted by ssmumich00:
Here are the part numbers:
Cone F8RZ-7M000-BB $39.65
SYN ASSEMBLY F8RZ-7124-BA $35.54
RING F5RZ-7107-A $28.03
RING F5RZ-7107-DA $10.05
SYN ASSEMBLY 97ZZ-7124-CB $39.74
SYN ASSEMBLY F8RZ-7124-AA $45.41
RING YM2Z-7107-EB $7.01
CONE 1S4Z-7M163-AA $27.83

These parts should be manufactured recently, mine were all made in 2003, AND most of them came from France or Germany. I don't know why these parts are coming from there, but I assume since the Contour is no longer made here, Ford is making MTX75 contour related parts over there. . .

Suneil





I'm stupid - what is all that stuff for?

Reason I ask is because tranny is coming out and I will be upgrading the shift forks...

~Pete


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#640268 03/05/04 04:46 PM
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pete-
the synchros, they match the revs when changing gears, they grind. . .THOSE are the part numbers and prices from bill.

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They're the part numbers, but could you give a tad more detail in the part description for each PN?

TIA,
Daymon


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My tranny is all together with all the upgraded forks/tower/and cable ends. Car shifts like a dream. Much better than stock feel and I still need to put friction modifier in. This is a must upgrade for all.


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Originally posted by ssmumich00:
Here are the part numbers:
Cone F8RZ-7M000-BB $39.65
SYN ASSEMBLY F8RZ-7124-BA $35.54
RING F5RZ-7107-A $28.03
RING F5RZ-7107-DA $10.05
SYN ASSEMBLY 97ZZ-7124-CB $39.74
SYN ASSEMBLY F8RZ-7124-AA $45.41
RING YM2Z-7107-EB $7.01
CONE 1S4Z-7M163-AA $27.83




FYI:
RING F5RZ-7107-A $28.03 - N/A
These two parts dion listed replace the above part.
RING YM2Z-7107-EB $7.01
CONE 1S4Z-7M163-AA $27.83


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ugggggggggh, this stuff is all confusing to me!!!!!!! my 3rd synchs are gone on my 99 SE 2.5 MTX, all i want to do is fix them, nothing special, just get my car back to shifting normal... what parts exactly do i need if i pull out the tranny and want to fix 3rd synchs only??? tons of part numbers but iam rather confused...

iam trying to figure out if i should buy a used tranny for 500 or just replace the 3rd gear synch and maybe the forks.... car will not be modded anymore than intake and exhaust i have and will be gone in 1 year.. just wanna get it fixed decently so when it is sold\trade it doesnt sound like a potato chip


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Originally posted by 99REDSE:
ugggggggggh, this stuff is all confusing to me!!!!!!! my 3rd synchs are gone on my 99 SE 2.5 MTX, all i want to do is fix them, nothing special, just get my car back to shifting normal... what parts exactly do i need if i pull out the tranny and want to fix 3rd synchs only??? tons of part numbers but iam rather confused...

iam trying to figure out if i should buy a used tranny for 500 or just replace the 3rd gear synch and maybe the forks.... car will not be modded anymore than intake and exhaust i have and will be gone in 1 year.. just wanna get it fixed decently so when it is sold\trade it doesnt sound like a potato chip




Moderator please delete my post and the post before mine because the person before me has no clue where to post!!!!


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CEGers,

Here's a spreadsheet I've been putting together over the past few months:

MTX75Components Spreadsheet

Thanks to Unisys12 for his suggestions!

There's too much information in this spreadsheet for just one person to continually research/maintain. As you folks find out part numbers/prices/vendors/etc, please send me a PM (to keep this thread uncluttered) and I'll update the spreadsheet.

Enjoy!


1996 Ford Contour SE (Mine): V-6 MTX/DMD/MSDS/K&N3530/Torsen/Spec-1/Split-Exhaust/Walbro/Syncromax..119K 2003 GMC Yukon XL SLT (Hers): 285HP/Stock..93K
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I just ordered a Quaife to have installed in my MTX-75 from a 99 Contour SVT. I thought I would just need the gears the shims and the speedo gear but I see that the parts list mentions a "Differential Ring Gear (Zetec)". Does this mean that only zetecs need this or is that where the part is coming from? So basically do I want/need this for installing the quaife?

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Just to let people know what I just went through. I had grinding going into 3rd so I figured since I'm going to have to pull the tranny out myself that I would try ang get everything needed to tackle this task so that I wouldn't have to do this again anytime soon and get all the parts up front.
Just so you know if you have the same 3rd gear problem I did you will NEED to replace the brass parts since that they are the #1 wear items for this problem, next the obvious is replace sychros. That is not all to my surprise the 3rd gear out of my 2000 is out dated and Ford has a revised and I was not able to match the new parts w/ my factory 3rd gear I was told that Ford NO longer makes the parts that would work w/ my 3rd gear out of my tranny and the associated new parts like the brass teeth and sychros. So after going back and forth w/ Ford and the machine/tranny shop I was getting a little iritated knowing that my car was on jack stands @ my house and all I wanted was the right parts to get my car back on the road again.
SO if you are planning to tackle this task yourself you will need a machine press to get the outer bearing off the shaft and that it should be replaced F8RZ7025BA I believe (Ford CD says Not reusable) You will need updated 3rd gear w/ (2) YM2Z7107EB Brass rings (1) F*RZ7124BA Synchronizer Assembly.
Good Luck and thanks for reading my experience and hopefully others will learn from it.



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Ok a few more dumb questions.. My trans feels rough from 3rd to 4th on cold days only. BUt..since im going to drop the trans for a clutch replacement I thought I update it. From the research i just did these are the numers I came up with:

1-2 shifter fork $19.43
3-4 Shifter fork $22.45

Syncro 3-4 $35.89
Syncro Cone $40.05
Syncro blocking ring-3rd inner and outer, 4th & 5th $47.71

Oil seals $26.49

About $193.14 to update tranny
Is there anything i'm missing here?


Then im looking at the shift tower update for around $212.55
What this do?

I want to make sure I have all the stuff here when im ready to do the clutch.








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I recently got quotes and bought some parts.

Here is the quote that I got

1-2 Shift Fork YS2Z-7230-BA $22.63
3-4 Shift Fork YS4Z-7230-AD $22.45
5-R Shift Fork XS8Z-7230-DD $22.69
Syncronizer Blocking Ring (1st & 2nd; Outer) F5RZ-7107-B $20.81
Syncronizer Blocking Ring (1st & 2nd; Inner) YS4Z-7107-DA $19.24
Syncronizer Blocking Ring (3rd Inner) F5RZ-7107-DA
Syncronizer Blocking Ring (3rd Outer) F5RZ-7107-A $28.03
Syncronizer Blocking Ring (4th & 5th) YM2Z-7107-EB $10.30
Syncronizer Blocking Ring (Reverse) YS4Z-7107-GA $19.24
1-2 Syncronizer F8RZ-7124-AA $90.22
3-4 Syncronizer F8RZ-7124-BA $36.51
5-R Syncronizer 97ZZ-7124-CB $63.95
Syncronizer Cone (3-4 related) F8RZ-7M000-BB $40.05
1st Gear (Needle Bearing) F5RZ-7K274-A $12.20
2nd Gear (Bearing) F5RZ-7K169-A $35.27
4th Gear (Needle Bearing) F5RZ-7K171-A $9.62
5th Gear (Needle Bearing) F5RZ-7K275-A $7.39
Reverse Gear (Bearing) F5RZ-7M037-A $20.77
Input Front (Bearing) F5RZ-7025-A $19.81
Input Rear (Bearing) F8RZ-7025-BA $21.41
Output Front (Grooved Bearing) F8RZ-7F431-BB $15.15
Output Rear (Ungrooved Bearing) F8RZ-7F431-AA $14.61
Oil Seal (Input) F5RZ-7048-AA $7.42
Oil Seal (Output) F5RZ-1S177-AA $6.79
Transmission Sealer (maybe not correct) 19B508 (TA-14) $19.13
Redline MTL 75W/80W 50204 $7.95

In that list there are 4 bearings that I did not find anywhere else in this thread. The bearings are the input and output shaft bearings: F5RZ-7025-A, F8RZ-7025-BA, F8RZ-7F431-BB and F8RZ-7F431-AA. It would be cool if they were added to the excel spreadsheet.


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i have a question is there a part number for the mtx-75 tranny mount?


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I tore my 95 trans apart last weekend. Although the assembly date of the car was 2/95, many parts are build dated in 94 or 1/95. I used the updated shifter forks and each 1 was different from the stock parts. There were NO ball bearing type bearings on any of the existing shift forks. All were a babbet type bearing. Also, there was no splash shield on the 2-3 fork.

The how-to posted here was OK, but there are a no. of differences with the rod actuated trans. I did not upgrade the shifter tower although I believe it could work. Getting the new forks in the case correctly was a bit tricky. The shafts were in fabulous shape considering the transaxle has over 155,000 miles on it.

Trans is not in the car yet so I cannot comment on improved shift feel. Anyone with an early, wishing to do this job can PM me for help or info., if so desired.


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Originally posted by Bradness:
All were a babbet type bearing. Also, there was no splash shield on the 2-3 fork.





The two forks are 1st/2nd, VERY early had b/bearings
now the Focus 1st/2nd has them, other is 3rd/4th with
revised splash shield...Read the damm CD, does have pictures!!!

Also, there was no splash shield on the 2-3 fork.

Originally posted by Bradness:

Wrong fork....3rd/4th fork has the splash shield..





Originally posted by Bradness:

I did not upgrade the shifter tower although I believe it could work.




...rod shift will not accept a cable shift tower!



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"The two forks are 1st/2nd, VERY early had b/bearings
now the Focus 1st/2nd has them, other is 3rd/4th with
revised splash shield...Read the damm CD, does have pictures!!!"

Hey I wasn't sure which was which, didn't check the p/n's on the box, I was just getting in and out, doing the damn job. I used Tom's description of which fork had the splash shield on it so get on him, not me!

What CD are you referring to? My 95 Ford manual is a HARD COPY (if that's what you're talking about). When you're on dial up, pictures are a luxury I don't have (unless I want to wait & wait & wait). Understand now?



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Don't defend yourself! You posted what you could and if a correction is needed to be made then that's okay too. Although a little politeness should be in order I'd think!
It's been so long I could have made a mistake on the numbering, but it wasn't meant to be the end-all of transmission repairs. It was meant to take out the mystery of doing light work to these transmissions so that others could benefit.
Someone is riding this forum like a friggin harpy so you should expect that any post on here will take flak.


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Does anyone have some pictures of the syncro parts? I just picked up a used trans and tore it apart to upgrade it and was wondering if someone could help me to determine if the syncros were still good or should I replace them. I've got pictures but seeing as I'm still kinda new here I'm not sure how to post pics yet. I know it need the fork and tower upgrade, but there's no point if it's got bad syncros and I can't tell by looking. I don't see any wear or ground metal, should I go by feel?

Any help would be appreciated.


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Originally posted by warmonger:

1-2 Fork: XS8Z 7230 DD $18.28
3-4 Fork: YS4Z 7230 AD $24.98
5-R Fork: YS2Z 7230 BA $17.57




Using teamfordparts.com it shows the 5-R shift fork being what you listed as the 1-2 fork and vice versa.
What is correct?


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This should clear it up.



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Originally posted by ctmystique:
I just picked up a used trans and tore it apart to upgrade it and was wondering if someone could help me to determine if the syncros were still good or should I replace them.




Hope you use a twin blocker for the 3rd gear sync. or you'll be taking apart again in no time. Terry Haines is the only one with them. He bought them all up when he learned Ford was discontinuing them.


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[From Terry]....there is no way that the part numbers on that list are correct for a ratio change. A ratio change depends on the type of output shaft that is currently in a trans. There are two types and depending on the type you have, two lists......Its not a 'one size fits all'. Over many years I have developed the HMS Matrix so I know what can be mixed & matched and what cannot. To follow the part numbers on the published list will lead you into the wall. We track and study all changes, revisions, deletions etc to all the MTX part numbers.....and I can assure you they are fluid! For those with a short memory I have always said that no two MTX's are alike, the assy number on the case tells you little of what level of parts are inside. Only from experience can you establish those levels. We can look at an open trans and tell you straight off level of blockers, forks, bearings, gears, input shaft, output shaft, diff etc etc. This takes years of experience and many hundreds of trans upgrades. FWIW,in the past past I did offer seminars on the MTX but was 'blown off' by the masses. Had they signed up they would know all about these parts issues...pity.


-'96 SE MTX 3L -'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535 -'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride -Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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