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Joined: Sep 2000
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"Absolut Rara."
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"Absolut Rara."
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Originally posted by Paul Kienitz:
Originally posted by Rara:
And proper ducting is always useful, well, as long as you are moving anyway.



So what does proper ducting consist of -- is it basically just a pipe that scoops up air from the front and feeds it to the middle of the rotor? Could I fake it with dryer hose?




People have done exactly that . . .

I'll see if I can dig up some pics of what some Mustang folks have done. Or maybe MFE will post up some pics of his setup on his mustang.


Balance is the Key. rarasvt@comcast.net
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Originally posted by RogerB:
and b) reducing cooling airflow through the vanes.



Well actually, it was pointed out that they would reduce airflow from the center, because they reduce the centrifugally created vacuum, and the way they reduce vacuum is by letting more air in. So the worst case scenario is that the airflow is moved, not reduced. So on that it's probably pretty much a wash.

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Considering all the info here, I agree it's too bad some opt out for reasons I don't fully understand.

To cover a few things that have been mentioned here however...
The brake torque of the wheel is controlled by the diameter of the rotor, the amount of pressure delivered to the pad and the pads Cf.

That being said, the comment I made is that if you 'over rotor' (diameter not thickness) will increase brake torque (same given pressure) you will get a gain, and if you 'over pad' the smaller rotor you'll likely over heat it. BUT, the size of the pad has no impact on the equation aside from the radial height of the pad. Meaning roughly where it sits on the rotor in aprox relation to the center line. The larger the pad, the longer the life of the pad, but it won't do a thing for torque. A pad with 6sq in vs. one with 12sq in of surface area has very little difference dispite it having more area.


Less Bling, more Zing Todd/TCE www.tceperformanceproducts.com
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Regarding brake ducts, I've done Ghetto on our GTP for a track day, and I've done more "professional" on my Mustang, but I have pics of neither.

On the GTP I used 4-inch to 3-inch galvanized reducers from the Home Depot ducting department, hose-clamped to 3-inch semi-rigid aluminum ducting routed back to the engine subframe and then along the A-arm and pinched down to fit in the wheel and point up into the center of the rotor. The whole thing was zip-tied in place with the "scoops" exposed to airflow just under the outside edges of the front fascia...I would have used the foglight holes but the fascia and bracketry for the lights is not easily enough modified to be able to put it back when I was done. and held up fine for several weeks until I took it off since it's my wife's daily driver. Cost maybe $40 to do.

On the Mustang I fabricated some scoops out of long-taper funnels and screwed them to the bottom of the fascia. It's an LX so I don't have foglight holes to work with. I then used high-temp 2.5-inch silicone ducting (the expensive stuff) and ran it back and then along the A-arm to the rotor area. I was going to connect it to an exhaust reducer as a "nozzle" at the brake end but I couldn't get them in time for its inaugural track event so I didn't bother, I just kept an eye on the tubing to make sure it didn't overheat and it's been fine. Again, the whole thing is zip-tied in place with the exception of the brake end which is held to the spindle by a hose clamp pierced through the tubing and around the wire reinforcement of the hose. I'll get some decent pics of it all soon.

As for the technical discussion, BRAVO, I agree with Rara that it's for the good of the board. I am not a degreed engineer but I understand the principles. Farther up the board I was about to say that once the rotor reaches its saturation point it doesn't can't take any more heat and guess what, the friction coefficient changes and there go your brakes. But Rara beat me to it with a far more technical description than I can muster and then everybody started whipping out the greek letters LOL.

Then I stepped away, for a long time. Having a son and losing a brother in the same weekend kind of dampened my enthusiasm.

And I'm proud to be involved with a very intelligent group of "retards" who keep hashing this [censored] out for the benefit of people who may otherwise not have access to anything but "yo, dese are da shizzle-bomb, I saw them in a magazine".


Pacific Green '96 Contour LX V6 â??98 GTP, light mods, 14.66/94 Calypso Green '92 Mustang LX coupe, 13.56/101 Crown Autocross Club 1999 Street Tire Champion, 2000/2001/2002 Street Modified Champion KCR SCCA 2002 Solo II Street Modified Champion
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