Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Dyno and Drag 3.0L Hybrid Dyno Plot 5/17/03

Also posted in the 3.0L forum. Not sure which would get more feedback.

Well here is the plot from this morning. I'm definately not impressed. The car was running way rich. I think Pro-M sent me a bad MAF so it definately needs some tuning.

http://www.pbase.com/image/16778256

Run #1: Max POWER = 190.5 Max TORQUE = 185.2
Run #2: Max POWER = 187.3 Max TORQUE = 191.3

Can someone help me and tell me why the low numbers?

judging by your air/fuel graph your all the way up by 15:1! doesnt that mean your lean and not rich? someone correct me if im wrong. but it does seem a bit low. id expect you could get it up to about 195 fwhp with some tuning.

how much cool down time did u allow and what kinda dyno?

Your air fuel sucks!

The lean 15:1 before the IMRC opens up is typical of the SVT's, all of them are similar stock.
The rest of it is too rich. Looks more rich than a stock SVT. You'll gain probably 5-7 Tq and maybe as much as 10 HP just by leaning out the air fuel.

What kind of valves are you running? Porting job? Exhaust manifolds?

It looks to me like you're running stock gutted exhaust manifolds and 2.5L valves on your hybrid motor. The graph is pretty smooth though, you just need to lean it out a bit for now and see what you get. Open intake and exhaust are always going to help.

Tom

Oh yeah, I forgot. I'd tune for about 13.5:1 if you are measuring the airfuel at the tail-pipe. That is what I found gave me the best power when I went and tuned last when I was still naturally aspirated. I went from about 196 HP to 207HP just by leaning the A/F curve and cleaning my airfilter out this way.

It's definitely falling on it's face past 6k.

Instead of coming into your powerband you are choking it off.

Pull out your Pro-M sheet and look at the Error % and I bet it shows positive numbers.
Even with a re-cal you still want a real dyno tuning anyway.

19 or 24lb injectors?

Well I have 24# injectors and MSDS Headers and Y-Pipe. Basically all of my mods are in my Sig. I have no headwork or intake manifold work done, no TB work either. In a different post I was talking about the barometer reading and there was something about there being a 20% drop which is relative to the increase from 2.5 to 3.0L. The only reason why I disagree with that is that All vehicles with any size motor should have a barometer reading of around 156-161 or so. Mine is around 139-141. Im not sure if that is how Pro-M calibrates their MAF's but Im kinda leary right now. The cool down period was awesome. I took my car there at around 10am and didnt get on the dyno until about 12:00. Never really had to start it up until I got up and ready to go. It is a DynoJet, not a Mustang Dyno.

hp wise its about what I thought it would be. once tuned i'd say 205-210ish.

A lot of my plots had the same curve in the lower rpms. I was told that is from when I stomped on the throttle after he hit the button to record it showed a big rush of air and then the fuel catches up. If he hit the button to record after I stomped the gas I got a nice straight line.

The same guy that hits that button is the same guy that is behind the wheel. I guess there was some incident a year or two ago that made them stop letting people drive their own car on the dyno. Oh yeah, when are you going to be done with your car Ryan?