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#630686 06/29/03 04:05 PM
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I checked and was surprised. I had seen this for 24.99 on sale in the JCW catalog:



Quote:

MINI VACUUM PUMP

* Smaller and lighter than conventional electric or air-powered vacuum pumps.
* Removes moisture from air conditioning system before adding refrigerant.

Rugged metal housing. Completely maintenance-free: venturi-type pump has no moving parts, needs no oil. Requires 4.5-cfm/90-psi air supply. Rated 1.3 cfm. 5"W x 5-3/8"H x 6"D, 4.1 lbs. Produces 29.75" Hg vacuum. Includes instructions.




It's 67.99, a bit more than I think one should spend for an occasional job.



My name is Richard. I was a Contouraholic. NOW: '02 Mazda B3000 Dual Sport, Black BEFORE: '99 Contour SE Sport Duratec ATX Spruce Green PIAA 510's, Foglight MOD, K&N Drop-in
#630687 06/30/03 02:24 AM
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that same thing goes for about $14 to $25 on ebay .. without fail..

do a search for vacuum pump

here's one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2331633034&category=11704

here's another

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6755&item=2421476592

this is a simple venturi effect device I think .. you supply high pressure with your probably at least 3/4 hp compressor 90psi ..

this is a simple device like a black box ..

I think all it does is have a pass through of your pressure and takes the vacuum off a venturi effect (like in a carb) where the rushing air passing buy pulls air with it (suction) out a side tube which must be where your vacuum hose would connect ...

someone could make one .. but for $10 andprobably $8 shipping .. it's worth it ( IF you have an air compressor that can run for 30 min with out overheating -- that's a strong system / big tank .. and 90 psi is nothing to sneeze at ) .--- this is a real half assed method of pulling vacuum ( very inefficient) .


its just a car to get from pt a to b usually it does it nicely --AIM: chronon1 95 Tour SE, 2.5 lliter 24V DOHC V6, 5 speed manual
#630688 06/30/03 02:29 AM
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just wanted to say that the cheaper one (link i posted)--

states the max vacuum is
28.3" of Mercury at Sea Level @ 90 Psi

which .. is not enough according to contourholic ? ..

=but they don't say if u run it higher how much more vacuum u get :

Air pressure - 75 PSI Min.,180 PSI Max.

Air consumption - 4.2 CFM @ 90PSI

4.2 cubic feet a minute sounds like a twin cylinder pump of at least 1HP or so ... I know mine is that and get's pretty damn hot after about 10 or 15 min.

if your doing it once a year i guess it could be a viable option .. BUT i would like to see them state 29.9 " Hg for whatever higher pressure ... we do enough guess work .. leaving that to chance or guess is just another variable in a world already overfull of them ...


its just a car to get from pt a to b usually it does it nicely --AIM: chronon1 95 Tour SE, 2.5 lliter 24V DOHC V6, 5 speed manual
#630689 07/01/03 05:23 AM
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man...dont mean any disrespect or anything but with all teh time u've spent on this and the money for the various tools and parts, couldn't u have taken your car somewhere by now that can actually fix it properly???

this has been going on for awhile...it seems from your posts alot of what u're doing is taking shots in the dark to repair it

i feel your pain, my ac went dead too...i recharged with the r134 kit plus gauge from walmart...it was cold for a few hrs but when i drove it around later to test it, i could smell the refridgerant burning and hear a squealing noise almost like when the ps pump has run dry..

so like i said, no dis intended but i'd be totally nuts by now if i'd worked on my ac as much as u have with no real results


99 expedition eddie bauer, 5.4 v8, k&n drop-in, 3" magnaflow catback and gas mileage that makes the contour look like a hybrid
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fighting the good fight, and learning about AC and about the car as I go .. I have a garage and pay taxes so I might as well use it .. if i lived in an apartment and had nobody around with a garage it makes a lot of sense to go have it done..

and that's the whole purpose of this board so that others can resolve their issues ---

I have not seen one post yet that said anything about a precise detail that was performed by work that someone paid someone else to do ..

this is a DIY forum - not a 'have someone else do it for you' situation .. it is about individualism and personalization ...

anyway - your right, it's high time i give it up and get the damn thing cool for the summer ..

some of us really arent in the financial luxury to allow for that however ...

i hope u dont give up as easily on things of more importance ... (what could be more important than AC in yor car in the summer ? )


its just a car to get from pt a to b usually it does it nicely --AIM: chronon1 95 Tour SE, 2.5 lliter 24V DOHC V6, 5 speed manual
#630691 07/02/03 01:07 AM
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Originally posted by eric1:
just wanted to say that the cheaper one (link i posted)--

states the max vacuum is
28.3" of Mercury at Sea Level @ 90 Psi

which .. is not enough according to contourholic ? ..

=but they don't say if u run it higher how much more vacuum u get :

Air pressure - 75 PSI Min.,180 PSI Max.

Air consumption - 4.2 CFM @ 90PSI

4.2 cubic feet a minute sounds like a twin cylinder pump of at least 1HP or so ... I know mine is that and get's pretty damn hot after about 10 or 15 min.

if your doing it once a year i guess it could be a viable option .. BUT i would like to see them state 29.9 " Hg for whatever higher pressure ... we do enough guess work .. leaving that to chance or guess is just another variable in a world already overfull of them ...




If you have A/C Gauge set, you can pull the vacuum in stages. Run the compressor (for the air powered VP) for 10 minutes. Close valves, rerst the air compressor, the run again. Will take longer, but it sounds as if you have some time and a place to mess around.


My name is Richard. I was a Contouraholic. NOW: '02 Mazda B3000 Dual Sport, Black BEFORE: '99 Contour SE Sport Duratec ATX Spruce Green PIAA 510's, Foglight MOD, K&N Drop-in
#630692 07/03/03 01:05 AM
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eric1 Offline OP
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well , i broke my own rules and went to pby -- because it was available and i fealt like it was someone i could trust..

well they found a faulty schraeder valve .. which i found the high pres. side one to be leaking pressure when i popped the hood after leaving the parking lot ...

i cant explain it .. . it wasnt doing it before but then again i never pressurized the system like they did...

well.. we'll see iuf i the replacement of that will do anything


its just a car to get from pt a to b usually it does it nicely --AIM: chronon1 95 Tour SE, 2.5 lliter 24V DOHC V6, 5 speed manual
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Thanks for the info, really appreciate it. Anyway, took the car to dealer and they told me they have put in a dye to detect a leak. they will check next time I take her for a oil change. they also added some coolant, so its cool now but I still hear the clicking sound which I was told by a friend - could the gear of the system. SHOULD I TAKE HER BACK TO THEM?

Have paid for coolant and oil change $130 including taxes, now if I take her back, they will charge the deductible $100.

should I wait or complain?

Thanks for all the help.

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eric1 Offline OP
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Thanks for the info, really appreciate it. Anyway, took the car to dealer and they told me they have put in a dye to detect a leak. they will check next time I take her for a oil change. they also added some coolant, so its cool now but I still hear the clicking sound which I was told by a friend - could the gear of the system. SHOULD I TAKE HER BACK TO THEM?

Have paid for coolant and oil change $130 including taxes, now if I take her back, they will charge the deductible $100.

should I wait or complain?

Thanks for all the help.
---------------------------------
u mean they added some refrigerant ( R134a ) or they added some coolant (antifreeze - ethyline glycol) ?

the clickisg sound ofd the compressor coming on and off with a low charge in the system ( 1 12 oz can or less ) as i hear the r134a capacity is 28 oz.

you could buy the $25 kit at walmart to add more r134a .. but u may have a leak ( the UV dye ) needs to be added and visually checked over ..
they also use a pressure test (air ) - this im familiar with at pepboys ...
the test at pepboys for ac diagnostic which may have 20 items they test is about $26 bucks !

there are a lot of opctions .. and it seems the ford dealer is gonna keep asking u to bend over so they can insert the vaseline while they bang u for that $100 deductable as many times as they can get it ? u always hear ' we have to make money somehow' and a 'business doesnt stay in business by giving away free service or goods' - its true .. maybe one time to keep you coming back but they wont continue spending time on you without something in return ...



its just a car to get from pt a to b usually it does it nicely --AIM: chronon1 95 Tour SE, 2.5 lliter 24V DOHC V6, 5 speed manual
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SO i have 24 oz of r134a IN THE SYSTEM with 28 oz capacity and i hear some people say ' u can overcharge it ' and others say ' u cant over charge it '

QUESTION #1)

should i stick another 12 oz can in the system or leave it with just the 2 cans in there ?
-------------------------------
its blowing cold so i m happy now ..

but , i think i need to add 2 oz of oil .

QUESTION #2)

Can I add it by sticking the refrigerant oil can ( now without its own pressure) upside down in the low side port with ac on max and just have it 'suck in' ?
or do u have to have pressure in a can when u add it to the low side port ?


its just a car to get from pt a to b usually it does it nicely --AIM: chronon1 95 Tour SE, 2.5 lliter 24V DOHC V6, 5 speed manual
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