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Can you drill a hole in the center of it and thread a screw ?
Then you can grab the screw and use it to pull it out.


Pete... 2004 Mercury Marauder 300A Black Clearcoat/Dark Charcoal LEATHER DOB 10/31/2003 DOP 1/2/2004 www.mercurymarauder.net
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Yes I thought about doing that, we started drilling last night and it's nearly impossible getting through. The bit actually shot sparks out and was glowing red.

I stopped drilling because I do not want the cylnder to fall down behind that wall, I am not sure how large of a cavern is behind that. I also do not know if and when I will make it through the sensor. Because I could keep drilling without knowing past the sensor and in to the tranny.

What are your thoughts on that?


Jason 00 Audi S4, 2.7 Bi-turbo quattro 01 S10 Xtreme, 4.3l 98' Contour SE with some mods 96 Cavalier (beater)
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The piece was really lodged in there for some reason... we have been using wd40 and such to try to loosen it also.


Jason 00 Audi S4, 2.7 Bi-turbo quattro 01 S10 Xtreme, 4.3l 98' Contour SE with some mods 96 Cavalier (beater)
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It probably has a lot of rust around it, and that makes it hard to get it out.
Try grabbing the edges with a needle nose plier and wiggle it out slowly...


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hey guys I have a new problem! I FINALLY got the stupid sensor out and installed the new one, and now my O/D light flashes! What does this mean? Somebody help me!

Jason


Jason 00 Audi S4, 2.7 Bi-turbo quattro 01 S10 Xtreme, 4.3l 98' Contour SE with some mods 96 Cavalier (beater)
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OD Light flashing means you have a Powertrain Code.
Get your code from the PCM and post it here...


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Originally posted by sigma:
Quick Q:

Is it imperative to disconnect the battery cable?

Last time I did that, the system kinda shorted or something when I reconnected it, for some reason. Or at least it acted very very funny when I attempted to start it up again. As in, it didn't want to do anything at all. And it freaked me out that it was cracklin' and crap when I put it back on the post, but nothing was on in the car.




well after you disconnect the battery, your computer has to "relearn" things like the ideal idle speed and things like that. after 30 seconds of running at idle it should be fine.


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I need to try this. For $15 you can't lose.


Hector 2003 Rally Red Mitsubishi Evolution VIII 257HP/259TQ 2005 Lapis Blue Mazda 6s RET: 00 Cabernet Red Ford Contour Zetec ATX SUPERCHARGED 160HP/141TQ
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dang my stealership wanted $48.99 for it. I told them F that i can get it for like $15. i found it cheaper than that http://fordparts.com/cart/?pn=+1S7Z-7M101-KA


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Well, I just installed it. Only cost me 3 busted knuckles from the cheesy-ass Ford scissor jack.

I got a little worried when mine required no twisting at all. It just fell right out. The same when I put the new one in.

But, so far, it seems to have made an incredible improvement. I took a quick spin around the block. I could make it do a hard drop, but it was significantly less jarring than before, and didn't do it almost every time from 1-2 like it used to.

Shifting was very smooth 1, 2, 3. And there even seemed to be a little bit better improvement in the shifting times, and sound (if that makes any sense). And, it may be my imagination, but it seemed to be a little quicker on the response.


2003 Mazda6s 3.0L MTX Webpage 2004 Mazda3s 2.3L ATX
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