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Originally posted by New Style TSS article above:
With the new design sensor, air gap and geartrain endplay become critical for sensor output. Keep this in mind if you're unable to locate the previous design sensor. The maximum air gap shouldn't exceed.030". Notice that the previous design sensor had an exposed pole piece, the new design sensor doesn't. The exposed pole piece gave the magnetic field more exposure to the tab, which increased signal strength. The previous design sensor had a black plastic body with a metal holddown bracket. It measured about 180 ohms at 750 E
You can identify the new design sensor (PFN XS7Z-7MI01-KA) by its white plastic body and integrated mounting tab. It measures about 800 ohms at 750 E. Currently, it is the only replacement sensor offered by Ford.
It seems to be a problem mainly in older vehicles where some of the aforementioned factors come into play. One of my test cars was an unmolested 2000 Contour, which had no problem with the new design sensor.
If you're having persistent TCC or ratio error codes, take a look under the front left fender. If you see the telltale white plastic sensor, see if you can get a hold of one of the following part numbers: F7RZ-7MI01-AA or F3RZ7MI01-A. Use caution, as Ford has superceded these part numbers to the new design, so make certain your dealer or parts supplier has the actual part number. You might get lucky and your local dealer or parts supplier could still have the previous design sensor in stock. Otherwise, the best recommendation is to find a good used sensor.
Kermit, from this article, it states that gear play (slop in the gears in other words) and air gap are to blame for problems on the older vehicles. It is a hit and miss sort of thing. It does not seem to matter which year your CD4E is, but how much wear and tear there is on it. It the aformentioned 626 in the article, the problems came about because the gears in the car had either too much slack in the gears or gap of the sensor and the ribs where too far apart (the whole air gap thing). That is basically what it is saying about using this new style sensor on an older tranny.
I don't want to come off to everyone as trying shoot this down or anything. I am not, I just wanted to point out this article. No Kermit, I know that is not what you are trying to do. Don't worry.  This article just points out a lot of good points that will come up in the future as more and more of us need to change our TSS. Also bear in mind that this is the only version of the sensor avaliable. Even all the older model CD4E's part numbers have been changed over to this new one.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You If you were a woman I'd kiss you. Hell, I could be convinced to do it anyways  I thought I'd never get anyone to tell me how to fix this annoying (and it's gotta be horribly damaging to the tranny) problem. I'd run out and do it right now except all the dealerships are closed. But this is getting done ASAP! Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You
2003 Mazda6s 3.0L MTX
Webpage
2004 Mazda3s 2.3L ATX
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Hey I have this same problem and when I saw this post I jumped for joy also. If some how you install this sensor wrong can it become a 3000 dollar problem? (another words see ya lata tranny)
Gimme some more info on this! please!
Jason
00 Audi S4, 2.7 Bi-turbo quattro 
01 S10 Xtreme, 4.3l
98' Contour SE with some mods
96 Cavalier (beater)
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Don't worry about the install... there is only one way it will go in. I can see how you might damage the sensor if you like beat the crap out of it, but other then that... you will be fine. If you do have any problems after the install, just let us know and we will help out. Sigma, there for a second I thought you was talking to me and I was going to reply that it was Fastcougars idea, so go kiss him, I see that I am safe. See guys... There are some perps to not being the first to post about something!! 
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Yummy, yummy, yummy! Can this part be had at a local stealership as well? 
'01 Escape XLT V6 on S100
CDT Audio/Ascendant Audio/Rockford/JBL/Knukonceptz setup
'00 SE Sport ATX
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OP
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That is the ONLY place to get it since it is an OEM part. Either at your local dealership or online at a Ford parts retailer like Gary Starr at Atascadero Ford or Bill Jenkins (not sure where he is now). It's $15 from Gary and $25 from the dealer ... the dealer may be somewhere between the 2 prices. It takes 15 minutes to do and cost is minimal ... try it and if it doesn't work, put back your old sensor. Be sure to save both the old sensor and the old retaining bolt as they are size matched ... the new bolt is longer because the new sensor flange is thicker.
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If it did not fix the problem, why would you need to put the old sensor back in?
Thanks,
Jason
Jason
00 Audi S4, 2.7 Bi-turbo quattro
01 S10 Xtreme, 4.3l
98' Contour SE with some mods
96 Cavalier (beater)
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Quote:
If it did not fix the problem, why would you need to put the old sensor back in?
Because in some cars (and it's a rather random occurence) it can create more, and worse problems to have the new sensor rather than the old one.
2003 Mazda6s 3.0L MTX
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2004 Mazda3s 2.3L ATX
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Well ok, i'm going to go buy the part today from the local stealership.
Jason
00 Audi S4, 2.7 Bi-turbo quattro
01 S10 Xtreme, 4.3l
98' Contour SE with some mods
96 Cavalier (beater)
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Went to the dealership today myself, List price was $29.41 plus tax and it won't be in until tomorrow. Paid it anyways. I want this fixed ASAP.
2003 Mazda6s 3.0L MTX
Webpage
2004 Mazda3s 2.3L ATX
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