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Originally posted by Roz 1999 SVT-C:
Thanks guys. you all have been really Helpful. Rich, i will let you know if i can;t find the oil. I appreciate everyones comments and help. If anyone still has anything else to say please fell free to continue the thread!

Right now im running 5W-30 Mobil one synthetic. And i think i will stay with this or the oil Rich reconmended


Roz




FYI Roz, many established Amsoil dealers advertise in the yellow pages. You might want to check for a local dealer there or online at websites like www.switchboard.com/.

If all else fails, there's always www.amsoil.com/.

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David, (MondeoST24)

Not quite. The first number (often with a "w" attached) i.e. 5w- or 10w- refers to the oils cold pour point. The oil's cold pour point is equal to a conventional single weight oil of the same number. This will affect how quickly the oil can be pumped through the engine. This would affect start-up lubrication at any temp, but especially at cold temps. It also will affect the parasitic drag of the oil pump at any temp.

The upper (-30 or -40) affects the shear strength of the oil, especially at higher temps. It does affect the pour point at all.

So, un summary: A 5-30 oil has the pour characteristics of 5 weight dino oil at all temps, and the shear characteristics of 30 weight dino oil at all temps.

Although the oil manufacturers guard their actual formulas carefully, I've been able to find some information that appears to be fairly reliable. Apparently, the Mobil 1 5-30 requires very few if any modifiers to have the pour point characteristics of a 5 weight oil and the shear strength of a 30 weight oil. The 5-50 requires more modifiers to enhance the shear strength up to 50. The problem with this is that the modifiers degrade faster than the base stock. So if you were measure a 5-50 oil when it was drained it may actually measure out at 5-40 or something like that. Also, the modifiers tend to only do one thing well, and displace the oil, so the more modifiers, the harder it is to get everything consistent lubrication and the more likely the oil will degrade. (Another reason NOT to use the snake oil additives. Ford specifically says DONā??T use them in the owners manual.)

Duratecs were designed for an oil with the flow characteristics of 5 weight oil. In very hot weather it probably wouldn't hurt it to have a heaver base stock, but there probably wouldn't be any advantage. And it was still in the car when there was cold snap, then there is the possibility of damage from the heavier oil.

Last edited by revrev; 05/08/03 05:07 PM.
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Originally posted by revrev:
David, (MondeoST24)

Not quite. The first number (often with a "w" attached) i.e. 5w- or 10w- refers to the oils cold pour point. The oil's cold pour point is equal to a conventional single weight oil of the same number. This will affect how quickly the oil can be pumped through the engine. This would affect start-up lubrication at any temp, but especially at cold temps. It also will affect the parasitic drag of the oil pump at any temp.

The upper (-30 or -40) affects the shear strength of the oil, especially at higher temps. It does affect the pour point at all.

So, un summary: A 5-30 oil has the pour characteristics of 5 weight dino oil at all temps, and the shear characteristics of 30 weight dino oil at all temps.

Although the oil manufacturers guard their actual formulas carefully, I've been able to find some information that appears to be fairly reliable. Apparently, the Mobil 1 5-30 requires very few if any modifiers to have the pour point characteristics of a 5 weight oil and the shear strength of a 30 weight oil. The 5-50 requires more modifiers to enhance the shear strength up to 50. The problem with this is that the modifiers degrade faster than the base stock. So if you were measure a 5-50 oil when it was drained it may actually measure out at 5-40 or something like that. Also, the modifiers tend to only do one thing well, and displace the oil, so the more modifiers, the harder it is to get everything consistent lubrication and the more likely the oil will degrade. (Another reason NOT to use the snake oil additives. Ford specifically says DONā??T use them in the owners manual.)

Duratecs were designed for an oil with the flow characteristics of 5 weight oil. In very hot weather it probably wouldn't hurt it to have a heaver base stock, but there probably wouldn't be any advantage. And it was still in the car when there was cold snap, then there is the possibility of damage from the heavier oil.





Why did you edit -- remove -- the revealing performance data about dino and synth oils in your original post?

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Originally posted by Drumbo:
Originally posted by revrev:
David, (MondeoST24)

Not quite. The first number (often with a "w" attached) i.e. 5w- or 10w- refers to the oils cold pour point. The oil's cold pour point is equal to a conventional single weight oil of the same number. This will affect how quickly the oil can be pumped through the engine. This would affect start-up lubrication at any temp, but especially at cold temps. It also will affect the parasitic drag of the oil pump at any temp.

The upper (-30 or -40) affects the shear strength of the oil, especially at higher temps. It does affect the pour point at all.

So, un summary: A 5-30 oil has the pour characteristics of 5 weight dino oil at all temps, and the shear characteristics of 30 weight dino oil at all temps.

Although the oil manufacturers guard their actual formulas carefully, I've been able to find some information that appears to be fairly reliable. Apparently, the Mobil 1 5-30 requires very few if any modifiers to have the pour point characteristics of a 5 weight oil and the shear strength of a 30 weight oil. The 5-50 requires more modifiers to enhance the shear strength up to 50. The problem with this is that the modifiers degrade faster than the base stock. So if you were measure a 5-50 oil when it was drained it may actually measure out at 5-40 or something like that. Also, the modifiers tend to only do one thing well, and displace the oil, so the more modifiers, the harder it is to get everything consistent lubrication and the more likely the oil will degrade. (Another reason NOT to use the snake oil additives. Ford specifically says DONā??T use them in the owners manual.)

Duratecs were designed for an oil with the flow characteristics of 5 weight oil. In very hot weather it probably wouldn't hurt it to have a heaver base stock, but there probably wouldn't be any advantage. And it was still in the car when there was cold snap, then there is the possibility of damage from the heavier oil.





Why did you edit -- remove -- the revealing performance data about dino and synth oils in your original post?




OK, I'll chalk-up the non-response as a "No Comment".

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Gilroy, Morgan Hills Spent two weeks there in AUG. 95, you sure that those thick garlic clouds from Gilroy don't affect the life of motor oil? It took me months to get that odor out of my system. Jeeese
Paul
Wife and I loved those hills/lake areas and back roads east of Morgan Hill. That type of area was much more to our liking than the freeway/parking lots!
Ole army buddy from Hayward give us the Bay area tour, Monterey cannery Row and the ole Hippy area up by the Russian River. I could handle that area.
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Drumbo,

All I did was added David's name to make it clear who I who I was responding to. After I looked at the thread there were several intervening posts. Probably should have corrected a few typo's while I was at it.

Richard

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Originally posted by revrev:
Drumbo,

All I did was added David's name to make it clear who I who I was responding to. After I looked at the thread there were several intervening posts. Probably should have corrected a few typo's while I was at it.

Richard




Didn't you also have some numerical stats in the original? Or am I confusing your post with another?

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Just a small up date on the oil leak.....turns out the place i got my oil cahge at put 15w 50 mobil one in my car instead of 5w 30.....I was pissed....The only way i caught it was by wathcing them put it in when i went back i told them to stop and i was taking my car to another shop...needless to say they were pissed but they let me go...so i canged it my self to 5w 30....turns out that oil leak has slowed down to a very small crawl...almost no burning smell.....looks like the higher pressure the large weight oil caused blew my rear crank seal...butnot bad enough to cause major concern right away.


Roz


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Drumbo,

Quote:

Didn't you also have some numerical stats in the original? Or am I confusing your post with another?




Must of confused me with another post. I am writing from my work computer. (successfully avoiding being productive yet again ) Anyway, I don't have any of the bookmarks from my home computer. I have seen some hard data over the years, but I don't think I have ever posted any.

BTW, I read some interesting stuff this week about Mobil 1. In Europe, they say it is a go on extended drain intervals. They don't say that here. Seems that the way oil is classified in Europe requires extended drain intervals to get the highest ratings. Here in the US, it is not necessary, so Mobil doesn't say anything about it. The oil appears to be the same stuff. The only reason Mobil doesn't talk about extended intervals (like Amsoil does)is to encourage people to change their oil more often.

Because of the different oil ratings the average drain interval in Europe is about 10,000 miles. In the US its 5000 miles. Same oil. The difference is that in Europe the engine manufacturers control the specs. They want longer drain intervals to reduce maintainence costs on their cars. In the US the oil maunfacturers control the specs. They want short intervals so you will change your oil more often.

I had been using the extended drain intervals with Amsoil, but wasn't so sure with Mobil 1. I'm thinking I'm comfortable with 10K with the Mobil 1 now.

Richard


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Originally posted by revrev:
Drumbo,

Quote:

Didn't you also have some numerical stats in the original? Or am I confusing your post with another?




Must of confused me with another post. I am writing from my work computer. (successfully avoiding being productive yet again ) Anyway, I don't have any of the bookmarks from my home computer. I have seen some hard data over the years, but I don't think I have ever posted any.

BTW, I read some interesting stuff this week about Mobil 1. In Europe, they say it is a go on extended drain intervals. They don't say that here. Seems that the way oil is classified in Europe requires extended drain intervals to get the highest ratings. Here in the US, it is not necessary, so Mobil doesn't say anything about it. The oil appears to be the same stuff. The only reason Mobil doesn't talk about extended intervals (like Amsoil does)is to encourage people to change their oil more often.

Because of the different oil ratings the average drain interval in Europe is about 10,000 miles. In the US its 5000 miles. Same oil. The difference is that in Europe the engine manufacturers control the specs. They want longer drain intervals to reduce maintainence costs on their cars. In the US the oil maunfacturers control the specs. They want short intervals so you will change your oil more often.

I had been using the extended drain intervals with Amsoil, but wasn't so sure with Mobil 1. I'm thinking I'm comfortable with 10K with the Mobil 1 now.

Richard






Very interesting. If Mobil 1 can actually handle extended drain in normally-aspirated engines, that would be good news.

Are you going to have the M1 analyzed when you dump it at 10K? That would give you -- us -- the answer.

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