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From my understanding of it, when the 5W30 oil is up to operating temp it will have the thickness of a 30 weight oil; at the same temperature the 5W50 will have the thickness of a 50 weight oil. That's why I believe it could cause problems.
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Okay Roz, you live near me (almost) as I live in Gilroy.. I have been running 0W30 AMSOIL in the duratech and have great results  .. proven by Blackwood lab testing on my oil after 15 months in the engine.. I also run this car at two of the three road courses in the SF Bay area.. Check out their web site and see how they rate on ware (top notch).. If you want some and can't find it.. send me an email.. 
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Originally posted by Roz 1999 SVT-C:
Originally posted by PackRat:
The previous owner of my car used Mobil 1 15W50 because it's CF rated (for diesels) and meets the bare minimum standards set for VW diesel engines. Not the best choice but certainly not the worst. My engine survived it. I switched to a more diesel friendly oil, Shell Rotella T synthetic, 5W40. 
See thats for a diesel engine....I appreciate the info, but im looking for the duratec engine not a diesel. Its kinda comparing apples and oranges....but thanks....0w-40 huh????
Sounds intresting considering that evey winter here in the bay area seems to get colder....like this past winter it was below freezing....25 to 30 degrees...almost every night..
Thanks guys,
roz
0 weights are usually used where winter temperatures hover near or below 0F for extended periods of time. Unless Mobil 1's 5w-30 cold-temperature flow rate is significantly different from the Amsoil 5w-30 I use, it will be fine at the temps you mentioned.
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Originally posted by PackRat:
Originally posted by Roz 1999 SVT-C:
I feel ya on that one....lol....some people do here too...but its understandable, oil is the life blood of the car, and if the blood is tainted...then well....we all know what can happen.
Roz
Well, there's a point when the love of your car becomes an obsession. Some of the TDI guys have gone beyond that, especially those who refuse to run anything less than a group 4 synthetic basestock oil and run oil analysis in an attempt to get the most miles out of their oil, post figures about the analysis that requires a chemistry degree to comprehend, rather than simply following the rather generous 10,000 mile factory specified oil change interval using a cheaper but more than satisfactory group 3 synthetic basestock and then calling those of us that do the latter "cheap" or criticize the purchase of a group 3 oil when it's more than $4 a quart.
Threads get locked over stuff like that. 
Comprehsive oil analysis tells you a lot more than just the condition of your oil. It can tell you a great deal about the overall condition of the engine and tip you off to developing problems long before they become a functional issue. The earlier analogy to oil being the "blood" of the engine carries over to oil analysis -- it is to automotive diagnostics what taking a blood sample is to medical diagnostics.
Ease or difficulty of interpreting the data depends on the lab you use. Some make their reports more user-friendly than others.
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Originally posted by PeterM:
Engine mfg's and oil Mfg's work together on oil specs. 5W-30 is specified for reasons related to fuel economy, valve train lubrication design (e.g see small oil channels), start-up lubrication performance, over all engine cooling.
Personally, having previously worked for Pennzoil and taken their lubrication training in Dallas, I would never go to a 15W-anything unless I had a deisel or the mfg spec'd it. 5W-50 Synthetic would Ok for extreme high temp operating environments. 0W-any thing would only make sense for seasonal application in extreme cold environments (like the arctic).
Hope this helps.
Amen to that!
And for all those to whom it applies, 15w weights are also used in many marine applications.
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Originally posted by F111D F:
Finally got ahold of Mobil 1's european formula 0w-40, and not sure but I believe the European Duratec's are using it. Chain noise at start up cold or hot now less than a 1/4 second. Since Porsche designed this motor, it seems only right to treat it to the good stuff. 5 years old and at least 10 more to go.
No more snake oil Syntec after Castrol's engineers blew me off when I complained about all the lamp black in the valve-train area. (Two oil changes in 9 months) So much for their fallacious synthetic.
One thing to remember, It's your car, your money whatever makes you feel good do it. The oil companies are out to make a buck and since loyality has went by the way-side, buyer beware! Even if you had your own lab, time and money, you'd probalbly realize it's mostly "marketing hype".
While I can still afford Mobil 1 this is what I'm using in my Duratec and my John Deere.
Paul
98 Mystique LS
DMD
For what it's worth, startup chain-rattle in my '98 has never been longer than .25 sec with the Amsoil 5w-30 I run.
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Originally posted by MondeoST24:
From my understanding of it, when the 5W30 oil is up to operating temp it will have the thickness of a 30 weight oil; at the same temperature the 5W50 will have the thickness of a 50 weight oil. That's why I believe it could cause problems.
I'll buy that. If a multi-vis attains its max viscosity at normal operating temps, you're right to steer clear of the 50 weight.
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Originally posted by mr_froge:
Okay Roz, you live near me (almost) as I live in Gilroy.. I have been running 0W30 AMSOIL in the duratech and have great results .. proven by Blackwood lab testing on my oil after 15 months in the engine.. I also run this car at two of the three road courses in the SF Bay area.. Check out their web site and see how they rate on ware (top notch).. If you want some and can't find it.. send me an email..
What have I been telling you about Amsoil, Roz ... ?  I doubt that the 0w-30 is needed in the Bay Area climate ... But if it helps you to sleep better during the winter month your area gets, there would be no harm in running Amsoil 0w-30.
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Originally posted by Rahmel:
whoa, i too have a question now. What's the deal w/ castrol sythetic?? i've been using that and only that, is Mobil better? If not, then what's the best, for summer, not winter, it's only driven in summer. I haven't had to change the oil in sooo long (i moved, it's at the other end of the state  ) and i want to say that i used Castrol Synthetic 10w30, that may be wrong, i just changed my gf's oil and might be what i put in there, but anyway, what's scoop on oil as far as what i run and Mobil? Thanks guys
Lose the Castrol ASAP. Replace with Mobil 1 or -- better yet -- Amsoil. For background, search previous posts on this topic.
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Thanks guys. you all have been really Helpful. Rich, i will let you know if i can;t find the oil. I appreciate everyones comments and help. If anyone still has anything else to say please fell free to continue the thread!
Right now im running 5W-30 Mobil one synthetic. And i think i will stay with this or the oil Rich reconmended
Roz
3.0 SVT hybrid...all the fixens...Track/Race ready very soon!!!!!! 20,000 + miles
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