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There actually was an SVT pre/post dyno with DMD and no other changes awhile back. Showed a gain of 2-3 HP with DMD..

With the price down to $50 (nuts..I paid $90), it may actually be a decent bang for buck (yes sadly $25/HP is not bad for an SVT) mode though it would be nice to see another confirmatory dyno. But for engine saftey its still a must do even if $25/HP is too rich for your blood..


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Originally posted by mikey boy:


the DMD isnt an expensive engine mod. you can get one for under 50 bucks and if you put it on yourself. the labor is free, or if a friend does it for you, because you arent good with tools, it is a beer or maybe two. unless, you want your engine to give way so you can get something with a little more liters to it?




You misunderstand, I have no problems installing one, or anyhting else for that matter. And the cost is very difficult to pass up (I may buy one now anyway) But, I did promise myself I wouldn't do any serious work to the driveline unless something broke first. I just don't want to have to wait longer than necessary to have an excuse to drop something else in there.

Besides, the XR4Ti is taking most of my "mod time" lately anyway. I've been gathering parts and whatnot for it for the past several months, and I'm only still missing a couple key items before I start tearing into it.


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2-3HP for bolting on some ring of rubber and steel on the end of the crank???? Come on! It was done for NVH, not durability or power.


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Hey, its not what I said, its what the DYNO said..
2-3 HP is within range of dyno variability, thats why I said I would like to see conformation.

But is feasable...did you read the GRMS post above? I mean, how much power IS lost to a crank writhing in its bearings..

Whatever reason it was done for...NVH, durability, power....all 3 could potentially benefit.

Last edited by DanN; 03/24/03 03:27 AM.

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You guys need to read the whole post before replying.


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Originally posted by 99fordsvt:
2-3HP for bolting on some ring of rubber and steel on the end of the crank???? Come on! It was done for NVH, not durability or power.




Don't bother with him.

Check out his other "posts" Particularly in the GB thread on UD pulleys.


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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Wonder who's been saying all this for many months...




Just adding further substantiation.


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Once you DMD, you never go back....


98 GL sport (V6 MTX) The Durable Duratec? - (DMD, Metal impeller WaterPump, Synth & Stinky in the tranny)
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where in the world do you get a DMD for 50 bucks!?


--Chris-- 1999 Silver Frost SVT #1671 of #2760
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by 99fordsvt:
2-3HP for bolting on some ring of rubber and steel on the end of the crank???? Come on! It was done for NVH, not durability or power.




Don't bother with him.

Check out his other "posts" Particularly in the GB thread on UD pulleys.





DemonSVT: If my biggest fault is trying to inject some reality into these overhyped performance "mods", is that such a bad thing?

To save everyone time searching for my other "posts" on Underdrive pulleys, all I was pointing out there was that underdriving an alternator will not increase horspower. The demand is independent of alternator RPM. In other words, I'd rather have a fully charged battery and a fast spinning alternator than a slow spinng alternator and a dead battery any day. The voltage regulator only "asks" the alternator to put out what it needs. It doesn't care how fast it is spinning.

Demon SVT: Go ahead, bolt on your DMD and your Underdrive alternator pulley and head to the dyno. Do 3-4 repeats in A-B-B-A format and then report out the results. Before you tell me to, let's see your credentials. If they don't top a Master Degree in Engineering working in the Automotive R&D world including several ASME papers on high speed engine friction, then don't bother. And I'm not trying to brag - just defending myself by undeserved criticism from you.

Did I say a DMD was bad? NO. In fact I may get one for my 99 'Tour for NVH reasons. But let's be real, it is for smoother crank harmonics, not for power.

Back to the fun - sorry if I hurt the tone.

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