Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 2 of 2 1 2
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,731
K
Hard-core CEG'er
Offline
Hard-core CEG'er
K
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,731
The big one then.. thanks...


Black 98.5 SVT "Kellie" First rule of italian driving: What is behind you, DOESN'T matter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,660
P
Hard-core CEG\'er
Offline
Hard-core CEG\'er
P
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,660
Originally posted by GeoPappas:
Once you know how to do it, it is simple.

The price of the belt is about $20-25.

You will also need a tool to remove the tension on the belt. Some model years have very little clearance (less than 1/2") to get the tool into the belt tensioner.

Some people seem to be able to relieve the tension from above (in the engine bay), whereas some people can only do it from the below (the RF wheel well area). It all depends on your model year. If you have to relieve the tension from below, then you will need to jack up the car and remove the RF (right front) wheel and the splash guard.

Time to do this depends on your model year. It can take anywhere from 10 minutes up to an hour.





The "tool" is a simple 1/2" breaker bar. It's a 5-minute job at a dealer. If you didn't authorize it don't pay for it - it's certainly not necessary to change that belt to do the other work they are doing so don't let them try that crap on you either. Then again, by telling you that they are changing the belt, unless you said "no, don't do that until I authorize you to do that repair" you've likely already authorized it. Even if you said, "um, OK" you've authorized it and will pay for it.

Scott


Troll! '99 BMW 328i
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 667
G
Veteran CEG\'er
Offline
Veteran CEG\'er
G
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 667
Originally posted by Pigeon:
The "tool" is a simple 1/2" breaker bar.




Actually, I believe that it is a 3/8".

In my situation, I had to buy three or four different breaker bars before I could find one that would fit into the limited clearance of the wheel well area.

And I can't get to the tensioner from above, I have to remove the RF wheel and splash guard.

As I said before, some model years are easier to work on than others.


96 Contour SE Duratec V6 24-valve 2.5L ATX 108,000 mi. Replaced: crankshaft w/ DMD, EGR valve (clogged), EVR, DPFE, PCV valve, evap emissions hose & tube (cracked), window regulator (broken), LH & RH PCV tubes, UIM gasket (leak), ignition coil
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 28
P
POP22 Offline OP
New CEG\'er
OP Offline
New CEG\'er
P
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 28
Nope, I did not say either of those. All I stated was that I did not authorize that part of the repair and requested that the service manager call me directly. If they did go ahead with the repair there might be some arguing on my part.


98 Contour SE, Zetec Powered, ATX Silverstars, Ghetto caps
Page 2 of 2 1 2

Moderated by  horseydug_dup1, Ray_dup1 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5