Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting I think my water pump is going out,,,,,,,,,

Another way to check if it failed is to look inside your radiator cap, and/or use one of those coolant testers to pull a sample out of your radiator.


If you see little black specks, it is mostlikly due to the plastic impeller breaking off.....but even if its the thermostat, i would reconmend doing preventive mantinence,
and changing the water pump for one with a metalimpeller. Even if its not bad.

Roz

I pulled the whole water pump housing out to scrape all of the old gasket material off (2 gaskets were smashed on!). Everything went together nicely and the tested thermostat (180 degree) went in as well.

The problems I have is when I'm 30 mph and below for extended periods of time. The temperature slowly creeps up just below the red and then I bail for a 45 mph+ street to get it to cool down. After 2 minuets of driving about 45 mph in 4th or 5th gear, it has cooled down long enough for me to do some slow driving for a little bit until it starts to creep up on the red again. (I do a lot of bids for my family hardwood floor business )

I flushed the engine very well a few minuets ago and it still F%&^ing does it! Fuses check out on the fan and the connections look good. So all I can figure is that the relay has gone bad. I could be wrong, because I'm not the best electrician in the world and I'm just guessing!

Fan problem would definately cause low speed overheating.

The radiator was replaced and everything has been fine up until it just started to do it months after the replacement.

My car is going into the body shop tomarrow to wrap up all the loose ends from my new paint job. I'll stick around my car as it warms up just to see if the fan actually turns on (I don't think it does). If it doesn't, I'll replace the relay and go from there as the wiring and connections still look fine.

Hopefully it's just the low speed fan relay and not the fan itself. Even if it is the fan, all that means is itll be replaced by a higher CFM fan anyway.

BTW both fans in parallel and therefore work together. Lo-speed accomplished by dropping resistor in circuit between relay and fan motors. Some Contiques only have one fan.

Hmmmm
It ( the fan(s) )didn't come on at all even when I switched over to full blast A/C which you could hear kick on.

OK, since they run in parallel would that mean at low speeds both are running and at high speed one is running? Or is it the other way around?

Both off, both low or both high. Plse confirm fuse noted in my prior post is ok.

Edit:
Next step.
If ok then with ignition off pull lo-speed relay and place a towel over battery. Check relay or relay socket for terminals 3 & 5 and place a short jumper wire between these terminals in the relay socket. You will probably get a spark, therefore battery cover as a precaution. Jumper should be 12 gauge or larger.

OK, I only did a quick visual inspection because I was in a slight hurry this morning. All looked good, but I'll have to check it right when I pick it up tomarrow night.

2 60 amp fuses? I don't think I saw 60 amp fuses in there to be honest.

Fuse #2, 60 amp is the fan fuse.
I still think you probably have a wiring problem related to rad re % re. I'd double check connectors as well as ground connection from fan motors.