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#522219 01/13/03 06:43 PM
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I'm interested in replacing my rear cross-drilled rotors with the Baer Eradispeed. The cross-drilled came with the car when I bought it last year. Before I buy, I just wanted some opinions on the Eradispeed.

TIA,
Ken
1998 Silver SVT Contour


2004 Mazda 6 Sport Hatchback, Silver 90 Mustang GT (DECHed)
#522220 01/13/03 06:53 PM
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Is it the stock braking system? You probably need to have Baer calipers to use baer rotors!

-Andy


Andy W. The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
#522221 01/13/03 09:24 PM
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I wouldn't do it for performance reasons unless you have hundreds of dollars burning a hole in your pocket in search of the last hundredth of acceleration or the last foot of braking.


Pacific Green '96 Contour LX V6 â??98 GTP, light mods, 14.66/94 Calypso Green '92 Mustang LX coupe, 13.56/101 Crown Autocross Club 1999 Street Tire Champion, 2000/2001/2002 Street Modified Champion KCR SCCA 2002 Solo II Street Modified Champion
#522222 01/14/03 02:23 PM
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On their website, the Eradispeed is suppose to be an oem replacement.


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#522223 01/14/03 04:29 PM
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Someone brought this up a couple years ago. They said they weren't planning on making any for the Tour though. They are OEM replacements.


-'96 SE MTX 3L -'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535 -'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride -Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
#522224 01/14/03 06:40 PM
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Originally posted by todras:
Someone brought this up a couple years ago. They said they weren't planning on making any for the Tour though. They are OEM replacements.




On Baer's current website, as listed below, the Eradispeed is supposedly available for the contour.

Ford/Mercury
1995> Contour/Cougar
2000> Focus

I'll contact Baer to confirm though.




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#522225 01/14/03 08:20 PM
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Originally posted by MFE:
I wouldn't do it for performance reasons unless you have hundreds of dollars burning a hole in your pocket in search of the last hundredth of acceleration or the last foot of braking.




MFE knows what he's talking about.

The only reason to put x-drilled, slotted, gold plated, diamond studded, 20" rotors in the back are if:
A) You simply must spend you money on something cos you crapped out a bag of $100 bills this morning.
B) You've got upgraded calipers and rotors up front (read: bigger) and you want to upsize the caliper and rotor on the rear also.

UNDERSTAND THIS PEOPLE, the frikkin stock brakes are so heavily biased to the front that you would be HARD PRESSED to notice any difference in upgrading the back rotors or pads to anything but a good set of OEM's with decent pads.

I challenge anyone with STOCK SIZED rotors to a stopping contest. You with you "kitchen-sink" rotors and pads vs. me and my Autospecialty Rotors and Bendix Titanium pads. On the street at sane speeds we'll stop within inches of each other. On the track you may fade later than me, but not by much. At least when my brakes fail it'll be cheap to replace, meanwhiile you'll be crying cos you just wasted $$$$.

If you gain 6" of braking with these whizz-bang rear rotors, I'd eat my shoe.



2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
#522226 01/15/03 01:14 AM
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Thanks for all the feedback in regards to the rotors.

I agree with MFE and Stazi in regards to the cross-drilled rotors. I, too, feel that it is not required for street use. I guess I didn't provide enough information on the original post. I bought the car last year from a Ford dealership. The original owner had already installed cross-drilled rotors on the car. Now the back rotors are sqealing when the brakes are applied. The Ford dealership advise that I need new rear rotors since cross-drilled rotors cannot be machined. The rear pads are fine. There is lots of pad lining left. The front rotors and pads are in good shape as well.

My dilemma is do I replace the rear cross-drilled rotors with:

1) another cross-drilled
2) install normal rotors at the back and leave the front cross-drilled rotors as is (which does not look good cosmetically) or
3) replace all four with normal rotors(which I cannot afford right now)




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#522227 01/15/03 01:27 PM
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Just put normal rotors out back.
If you want. I'll send you a set of new Autospecialty rotors for $55 shipped.
PM Me if you're interested


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
#522228 01/16/03 06:31 PM
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I would replace anything that is working properly. SO just swap out the rear to blanks or maybe the EBC's that Terry sells. But Stazi and MFE are right, cross-drilled rotors on the front isn't going to gain you much if anything. And, on the rear you would just be burning money.

I have X-drille don the front that I got for a really good deal. $80 each. I wouldn't buy them again.

-Andy


Andy W. The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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