Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Tour won't run unless I give it gas.

I hang my head in shame as I type this message...

I have been working on my '96 Tour for the last week and still can't solve the problem. My tour won't run unless I hold down the gas pedal. It take 10-12 cranks to start and it barely idles without dying. Once it is warmed up, it will idle, but BARELY. Also, it stinks of gas when I'm holding down the gas pedal to warm it up. I have tried/replaced EVERYTHING and can't find the problem. I have connected my OBD-II scanner but it's not throwing any codes and there aren't and pending codes. I fear that I may have to take it into the dealer on Monday. Please help!!!


What I've replaced:
Injectors
Fuel Filter
MAF
EGR
PCV with Tube and rubber "T" fitting
Vacuum hose from PCV "T" to unknown solenoid on firewall
IAC
IAT
Thermostat
Accel Coil Pack
FRPP 9mm Spark Plug wires
Autolite Double Platinum Plugs
O2 sensors - upper and lower

What I've tried:
Putting old MAF back on
Cleaning old and new MAF with electrical contact cleaner - no change
Putting stock intake back on (instead of CTA intake) - no change
Disconnecting all vacuum lines and plugging ports on intake manifold - no change but ran worse when unplugging any port
Disconnected EGR vacuum line - no change
Unplugging MAF - no change
Checking spark with inductive timing lite - seems OK
Removing accessory drive belt to rule out a bad bearing - don't worry I only ran it for a few seconds with it off
Reset computer between each test
Checked fuel pressure - varies from 30 to 40psi, but never goes below 30

The only things that I haven't replaced are the DPFE solenoid and the fuel pump. I think that the DPFE is OK because I've disconnected the EGR and haven't observed any change. I'm not sure about the fuel pump tho... Could I be getting the right pressure but not getting the proper flow?

Any ideas?

TIA,
BP

The symptom is most usually caused by a sticking IAC, which I see you have already replaced. I would be suspecious that you have a wiring problem to the IAC from the PCM, or possibly a bad PCM. I'm not sure which sensors have an impact on the IAC circuit, but the PCM may not be getting the information it needs to make the IAC function. Another posibility (but one I have not heard of before) is that the passages from the throttle body to the IAC are plugged so that it cannot function.

I would start by removing the IAC to see if the passages are plugged. If they are OK, I would have the system scanned to see if the PCM is commanding the IAC. If you are, then I would check to see if you are getting a signal to the IAC. If the PCM is not commanding the IAC, then I would check to see what sensors may be off enough to keep it from working without setting a check engine light.

If you get to the point that you cannot go any further yourself, you have little choice but to take it to a shop for professional services. Good luck with it.

not getting proper flow would most likely be the injectors or regulator (do all years have regulators?, i take it they do). don't take it to the dealer though. find a reliable shop, and go there.

Since you're replaced everything else(almost), I wonder if the Throttle Position Sensor could cause this problem. I suppose it's possible that if the computer thinks the throttle is open, it could dump in a lot of gas, which might explain why you are smelling gas. It really sounds like you aren't getting air, or are getting a really rich a/f mixture. I've had this problem a couple of times, but it would usually clear itself up after 10 seconds or so.

I don't know, it's just something to think about. Good luck.

I am thoroughly stumped.

I took off the IAC, ohmed it out, and hooked it up to my regulated power supply. It works just fine and it measures 12.5 ohms. Also, I put it back on but disconnected it. Very, very bad. My car wouldn't idle at all, it would just die. I also connected it directly to my battery. This just made my car idle at about 2000 rpms. So I'm pretty sure that it's not the IAC.

As for the TPS... I took it off and tested it. It read 3.888k ohms across the entire pot (across terminals A and C). At closed throttle it read 485 ohms across termnials A and B, and 3.572k ohms across terminals B and C. At WOT it read 3.730k ohms across terminals A and B, and 250 ohms across terminals B and C. This all seems normal for a potentiometer. I don't know what it should be reading though. My shop manual doesn't say anything about it.

I also threw a bottle of Iso-Heet in the tank to rule out water in the gas. Still no change.

I'm going to borrow a laptop from work tomorrow to double check my OBD-II readings. Does anyone know what normal MAF readings should be (in #/hr)?

I just don't know.

BP