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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 829
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 829 |
I have used Mobil 1, Redline and am currently using Amsoil. Only a true idiot would go 25k miles without changing oil, but I have been known to go 5-6500 miles on one change. It is much better looking when used, than is dino oil.
BTW- The reason that synth oil leaks is because it is "searching" and will make it's way out of any space it encounters.
Down side- Cost, especially the good stuff.
Up Side- Hmmm... Maybe extended motor life...
SVT Parts For Sale!PM Me.
2006 M6 Cyclone Gray GTO
1995 Mazda Protege Commuter Special
93 FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide
I'm A TROLL Now!~
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 37
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 37 |
Welcome to the technology era. I've run Amsoil to 75k with regular oil analysis...and it always comes back ready to go. This was in an F150, 5.8L HO, regularly used to pull trailer loads in excess of 10,000 pounds. It did burn a quart of oil about every 5-6k. I run oil analysis on my Contour, I've yet to have a result that said I actually needed to change the oil, but since I take the sample as I drain it, it's too late...and it uses no oil between filter changes (12k miles give or take a bit of procrastination.) Also in a Mustang with a 302 and a 7500 rpm redline. 12k miles on the engine before I wanted something stronger. Over 300 1/4 mile runs, plus shifting at 4k almost all the time, and generous throttle usage during the entire 12k miles. Tore the engine down, upgraded the pistons (old ones had ZERO deposits, no visible wear...rings still had the grooves in them) and heads, and put it back together. The initial layer on the bearings was of course gone, but all parts measured EXACTLY the same as they were put in, as verified by my machinist. The hone marks in the cylinders were still very visible. If anything, the engine wasn't broken in yet. I switched to 20w-50 Amsoil at 1500 miles. This current engine (only changed the rings) will be run up to 3000 miles before the switch to try and run it in a little better. Again, oil analysis showed the oil to be like new. No additional oil was ever added to this engine.
Amsoil is a proven product, and there are plenty of people with over 100k and no oil changes...oil analysis shows good. Amsoil has a very good warranty on their product, and has had so for over 30 years, to the best of my knowledge. Probably trillions of miles...and NO claims. If you can't believe their track record...you're not going to believe anything.
Get out of the 60s, and into the next century.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,616
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,616 |
Originally posted by Thuundar80530:
Get out of the 60s, and into the next century.
Riiiiiiiiiiight...next thing you'll be telling us is that Fuel Injection is better than my Holley Double Pumper... 
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 37
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 37 |
For high performance (racing) I use a double pumper, though a proper FI system is going to be better. They are just very costly and are generally 100% custom. Not too many people have the brains to design and run one of 'em. Holley Pro-Jection, Edelbrock MFI, etc. are not good enough for high performance. And my double pumper isn't up to 60s specs, either. I take full advantage of modern manufacturing tolerances and technology...I'm sure you do to, though you may not know it 
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,789
I feel Guilty, Oh so guilty
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I feel Guilty, Oh so guilty
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,789 |
Quote:
Amsoil is a proven product, and there are plenty of people with over 100k and no oil changes...oil analysis shows good. Amsoil has a very good warranty on their product, and has had so for over 30 years, to the best of my knowledge. Probably trillions of miles...and NO claims. If you can't believe their track record...you're not going to believe anything.
The oil may last longer than 25k, but the additives are the issue. They may last 25k under ideal conditions, but that would be a stretch even in that case. As I said before, they use the same additives as everyone else.
"If you are flammable and have legs, you are never blocking a fire exit"
-Mitch Hedberg
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,469
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,469 |
wow i wounder if the starter of this topic had an idea how long this post was gonna turn into
98 csvt t-red.. sho-shop intake, b&m, fidanza, spec1 clutch, Torsen, DMD,optimized Y& TB, Brullen, rear strut bar,h&r's,17" konig traffik's.
"I say what I mean and I do what i say"
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,506
Hard-core CEG'er
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OP
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,506 |
Originally posted by dubkatz:
wow i wounder if the starter of this topic had an idea how long this post was gonna turn into
You know...I started this topic...and nope I had no clue...lamo....im kicking myself in the head...lol
Just to set things stright....to me it doesn't matter how long oil is supposted to last...to get the best longivity out of your engine, i think most people here will agree that changing your oil ever 5000 miles wether it is sythetic, or dino oil, is the best thing for your car.
So....next oil topic please!!!! lol
Roz
3.0 SVT hybrid...all the fixens...Track/Race ready very soon!!!!!! 20,000 + miles
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 365
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 365 |
Originally posted by Big Jim:
I just like keeping the engine clean. My experience is that longer oil change intervals are more likely to lead to sludged up engines. Perhaps it is a little old fashioned, but I remember tearing down too many engines that had huge amounts of sludge. Even today's engines with today's oils are not immune. Look at the problems that Toyota has been having. I believe in agressive maintenance.
Jim,
About eight years ago, when I was an Amsoil dealer*, I occasionally would personally convert someone's car from conventional engine oil to Amsoil. Unless it was a very low-mileage vehicle w/ between 10-15K** (and few were), my method went like this:
> Dump old oil and filter
> Install cheapest generic spin-on filter that would fit the car and add one quart of cheapest Brand X oil available that met spec
> Add 16 oz can Amsoil Engine Flush.
> Fill remainder of crankcase with remaining Brand X oil.
> Idle engine at 2500-3000 rpm for 30-60 minutes, depending on appearance/smell of original oil.
> Shut down. Remove filler cap. Lose flush oil and filter.
> Drain for as long as required to purge "99.99%" of flush oil and allow solvent residue to volatilize and escape -- normally, no more than an hour.
> Fill Amsoil spin-on filter with oil, install. Fill crankcase with Amsoil synth ... then what you'd do from that point after any oil change.
Basically, it was the automotive equivalant of a Barium enema.
And suffice to say (because I'm getting long-winded), it worked very well in returning the engine and lubrication system to a state near-enough to pristine that the synthetic oil could take over from there and the driver could expect an initial drain-interval far in excess of 3K .. and, with the next change, expect to be able to extend the drain-interval to the limit of the engine's baseline, mechanical condition.
Drumbo
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* Although I haven't been in the synlube business for a number of years, I have run Amsoil synlubes front-to-back in all my vehicles over the past 15 years.
** And if it was a high-mileage vehicle with an uncertain maintenence history, Amsoil never came up in conversation with the owner
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,017
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,017 |
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Your best bet is a full synthetic (Mobil 1, Royal Purple, AMSOil - but NEVER Syntec!) or a quality dino. Definitely skip the blends if you want to save a buck by not running a full synthetic.
Well I'm tired of seeing that Castrol Syntec is garbage so I did a search and found this answer by Amsoil.
Faq written by Amsoil
Castrol Syntec beat Mobil tri in the 4 ball wear test which is a standard test for oils!
Amsoil was the best.
Quoted from the Faq's
"Dirt, the number one cause of engine failure, was found to be responsible for 43.4% of failures, and insufficient lubrication, the second most common cause of failure, was responsible for 16.6% of failures."
And this is another article that lists Castrol as 3rd best
Oil test
Quote from second article
"the comparison graph done with the new tri-synthetic formulation of Mobil 1. You can see that it scores significantly worse in it's new formulation. As you can also see, Castrol Syntec also scores significantly worse as well" but Castrol beat Mobil!
Sure Amsoil is a full synthetic and the rest might be some form of a blend, but if the test results add up then how can Castrol be bad!
Just thought you might like to know.
p.s. If I got the Mobil 1 oil wrong then the one you were trying to recommend I'm sorry. Please state which Mobil 1 product your referring to.
1996 2.5LT V6 Contour ATX My Tour+help/info pics
E0 rims, Gutted Pre-Cats,CTA Custom Exhaust & Intake, Diablo Chip.
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,977
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,977 |
Originally posted by chongo:
p.s. If I got the Mobil 1 oil wrong then the one you were trying to recommend I'm sorry. Please state which Mobil 1 product your referring to.
It's not the new Mobil 1 SuperSyn. It's the older Tri-Synthetic that they don't sell anymore. Also note that they said that the Castrol Syntec is NOT synthetic?
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