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The test data in the second article is from 1995 and 1999. Also Castrol was actually synthetic for the tests, not as it is now. That data has no relevance to someone deciding what to put in their car today.
99 Silver CSVT #1081/2760
97 Nissan Altima
83 Corolla SR5 RWD bondo/rust body 'ghetto cruiser' RIP
78 Winnebago Minnie (Dodge Chassis 23') 440cid 4bbl.
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"Cobb - It's not just for corn anymore!"
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Originally posted by SVT_CT:
The test data in the second article is from 1995 and 1999. Also Castrol was actually synthetic for the tests, not as it is now. That data has no relevance to someone deciding what to put in their car today.
Don't know if you read the article properly, but in the 1999 test it said that Castrol Syntec is just an advanced dino oil now with some synthetic additives.
As for the Amsoil Faq's (Castrol wasn't a synthetic for this test) you guys believe Amsoil is the best, well do you beleive the test results from them too?
Airknight I did say that Castrol was a blend.
1996 2.5LT V6 Contour ATX My Tour+help/info pics
E0 rims, Gutted Pre-Cats,CTA Custom Exhaust & Intake, Diablo Chip.
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Originally posted by chongo:
Don't know if you read the article properly, but in the 1999 test it said that Castrol Syntec is just an advanced dino oil now with some synthetic additives.
As for the Amsoil Faq's (Castrol wasn't a synthetic for this test) you guys believe Amsoil is the best, well do you beleive the test results from them too?
Airknight I did say that Castrol was a blend.
I did read it properly. Syntec may have already started being dino oil in 1999 but it is not the same oil 4 years later. I repeat my point that syntec is not the same now as in those tests. That is old data. I also don't believe Amsoil is best, but it is a top quality oil and I believe anything is better than syntec. Another good point to note is that this is only one out of many ways to test oil. Finally, why do you stand by a company that blatantly lies to its consumers?
99 Silver CSVT #1081/2760
97 Nissan Altima
83 Corolla SR5 RWD bondo/rust body 'ghetto cruiser' RIP
78 Winnebago Minnie (Dodge Chassis 23') 440cid 4bbl.
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Originally posted by AirKnight:
Originally posted by FastFordFreak:
It can cause leaks in high-mileage engines
WRONG! Synthetic oil is NOT the cause of oil leak. It's because of other problem like the gaskets are already getting brittle, and the more refined synthetic oil can seep through the cracks. The only bad thing about synthetic oil is cost.
Not wrong, actually.
Post-conversion leaks often are revealed due to the aggressive detergent packages found in hi-end synthetics. If the engine is oil-fouled due to age or neglect, the synth will very quickly clean out the residual gunk deposited by conventional oils. This can reveal existing leaks or weaknesses that had been masked by the gunk.
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Originally posted by 88SVT:
Originally posted by rozwell911:
Hey Guys, Happy holidays. I hope everyone is safe out there.
I was over hearing a conversation of a few mechanics and some of them said that they wouldn't reconmend Sythetic Oil over Regular. Now I love my Mobile one in my car, but is running sythetic bad?? I can't believe that but the question is running through my mind because thats what one of the mechanic said. I know mixing sythetic and reg. is bad but I find it hard to believe Pure sytheic is bad for you car...and yes I over heard the entire conversation of the mechanics so I didn;t leave anything out.
Can anyone shed a little light?
Roz
I'd run what the manufacturer suggests. Some manufacturers (Lotus, GM for Corvette, etc.) use Mobil 1. Ford now uses some sort of synthetic blend I believe when you go to get your oil changed at the dealership. Everyone is going to have their preference, mostly guided by what someone else says or does. When I was a kid a million years ago, I'd run nothing but Valvoline Racing Oil in my Cuda. Why? Because some racing team did. Did it make my car faster or protect the engine better? Probably no to both answers (it was street driven). And that was dino oil. And I've had all my car's engines (except the Contour's) apart for reasons ranging from total rebuilds to just changing valve cover gaskets (Ranger) and their engines have been as clean as the proverbial babies behind. All of them. The Ranger has over 350K miles on it and it's never faltered once in any area that oil would make a difference. A regular oil/filter change mantra is the best insurance you can provide.
By the way, you didn't state why these guys said that synthetic was bad so something was left out. At any rate, run it if you want but as a number of posters have said, it's probably overkill. Personally, and even though our cars are fast approaching end of warranty (if not already out of warranty) being guided by what the manufacturer suggests is better insurance as far as I'm concerned if for only one reason: If your engine failed while under warranty and it was regularly serviced at a dealer, you'd likely suffer less of a hassle getting it replaced than if you DIY'd it with some other type oil. It's got to count for something. Just my .02 cents. 
Karl
Spec is spec, Karl. If you've been running ANY oil that meets manufacturer's spec and changing it at the correct intervals, any dealer who uses tries to use your choice of oil as a club to beat you with is trying to run a number on you.
If anything, the closer you are to out-of-warranty, the stronger the case for converting to synthetics ASAP.
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Originally posted by STATIC:
I use Wix I think they are one of the best out there if you ask me.
Actually, if I remember right, Wix oil filters came in dead-last in the last Amsoil oil-filter test I saw. That was less than a year ago.
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Originally posted by dnewma04:
Originally posted by PoopStainz:
im running mobile 1 (for my 1st time) on a motorcraft oil filter. i ran some cheapo synthetic for lile 1500 miles before i changed to mobile 1. will i be fine going 5000 mikes before a change? (duratec)
Absolutely. 5000k on dino oil would be fine, so synthetics should cause no problems.
Hold the phone ...
Mobil does not recommend Mobil 1 for extended drains. And, unless you live somewhere like Hawaii, where the air temp doesn't vary by much more than 15-degrees all year, I don't recommend a 5000K drain with any conventional oil.
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Originally posted by rozwell911:
Originally posted by Thuundar80530:
Change interval for high end synthetics is NOT 5k miles. 25k miles, with warranty. Change the filter every 12.5k miles, again warranty. Price per quart is around $6. Filter for a Contour is less than $10. Let's NOT use the same filter for dino oil. Synthetics require better filters. And by high end, I'm talking synthetics formulated to run more than 7.5k miles (Mobil 1). Who's manipulating numbers, change the oil as specified by the oil manufacturer. And my Contour uses 6 quarts of oil..not 5. We'll use your outlandish 40k per year (very high number).
OK, I have to disagree with part of the above statement. Any oil I would not change every 25,000 Miles. The longest I have gone is 10,000k and thats only because I was on business trips with my work and didn;t have time.
And 40k is just a ludicrus number. I know...some manufatures now say you can go 25k, 30k and even 50k before you have an oil change....But if you speak to a meachnic (even most dealer mechanics)here in SanJose, CA, they still
reconmend changing oil every 5 to 7k miles.
Even my own work a parts whole seller,(who has few cars in the SpeedVision challange)reconmend a 5 to 7 interval. And I trust my work more than a mechanic.
Just my opinion.
Roz
Then you'll be interested to learn this, Roz: When I had my Merkur XR4Ti (a turbo car w/cast iron block AND cast iron head, INSANE underhood temps -- made worse by >100-degree Texas summers --and modified by me for higher boost and compression), I once had the Amsoil 10-w40 I ran in my car analyzed at 9000+ miles. The lab certified it as still good for use. Even Amsoil does not recommend a drain interval that long for turbo cars. After that, I neverf hesitated to go 7000-8000 miles between oil changes in that car.
I currently go approx 14,000 between changes in my CSVT -- using Amsoil's spin-on oil filter, of course.
Drumbo
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Originally posted by Drumbo:
Originally posted by AirKnight:
Originally posted by FastFordFreak:
It can cause leaks in high-mileage engines
WRONG! Synthetic oil is NOT the cause of oil leak. It's because of other problem like the gaskets are already getting brittle, and the more refined synthetic oil can seep through the cracks. The only bad thing about synthetic oil is cost.
Not wrong, actually.
Post-conversion leaks often are revealed due to the aggressive detergent packages found in hi-end synthetics. If the engine is oil-fouled due to age or neglect, the synth will very quickly clean out the residual gunk deposited by conventional oils. This can reveal existing leaks or weaknesses that had been masked by the gunk.
Actually, Airknight said it will not CAUSE leaks. As you said it may REVEAL problems that already exist.
"Cobb - It's not just for corn anymore!"
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