Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting "Check Engine" light / Duratec V6

I have a '96 Mercury Mystique with a Duratec V6 and Automatic Trans.
I've owned it since it was new and have pampered it like every other vehicle I have owned.
It now has 75,000.00 miles on the odometer.
I used to think this was a great car, but during the same month I paid the note off, it started to show it's true colors. No matter what I do, this car is determined to have problems mechanically. I could write a novel with all the things I have had replaced or fixed on this car during this past year alone. But, I will spare you the grave details of my drained savings account, growing credit card debt and my frustrations. What I would like to know is if any of you guys who have gone through what I have gone through can give me some pointers?

This past weekend while doing some Sunday driving, my "Check Engine" light came on. I checked all the fluids and everything else I could think of... all was fine. I figured it was probably a sensor or some more wiring that had melted.

Tonight I took the "Mystake" to Auto Zone and had them give it a diagnostic check. The guy tells me, it's coming from the emissions systems. I didn't think to actually get the code numbers... DUH! What he said was, it could either be the O2 Sensor or the Catalytic Converter.

I thought if the Catalytic Converter was dying, they would start to make a rattling noise.
Q ?: Is this true?
Q ?: What is the price of a new Catalytic Converter?
Q ?: What is the price of a new O2 Sensor?

Q ?: Would you recommend that I take it to my FORD dealership to have this work done? Or find a cheaper, reputable garage that stands behind their work?

FORD is killing me on their prices... but I have trust in their work.
When I started to experience mechanical buffoonery, I had been taking the "Mystake" to the LINCOLN MERCURY dealership where I bought it. I should have taken a jumbo jar of Vaseline with me - because they definitely screwed me. My FORD dealership has been a much better experience and cheaper on their prices - but it's far from cheap...

I need to drive this car for at least another year... I just hope the two of us will live that long.

Can some of you guys toss some seasoned advice my way?

Thanks for your help,
Eurythmian

If its cats, they're covered by an 80,000 mile warranty.

O2 sensors are somewhat expensive from what I've heard (something like $60 apiece).

Get the code and post it here; someone will be able to help you.

EDIT: I should also add that problems like these aren't atypical for the mileage you have. I don't think your car is anywhere near dying quite yet. Many people have recommend replacing O2 sensors around 75,000 miles. I'd start worrying if your engine encounters major mechanical problems. Heck, I've already gone through a tranny at 57,000.

Reading the thread called "PO420", this sounds exactly like what I am experiencing.

Although, I only have single exhaust...

I'm thrilled the cat. has a warranty of 80K... at least something does.
I better get it to the dealership!

Anyone else have advise?

Eurythmian

Probably downstream O2 sensor. Cat's don't always rattle.
Always get the codes, not their interpretation.
Make sure they look up any recalls that have not been done, before it's too late.

What other problems do you think you got took over?

Don't talk bad about your car, they get mad and break down!

Eury,

First off, not knowing what all problems you have had with your car... I can still say that you have most likely not experienced anything that someone here as not already experienced at some time or another. So feel comfortable in that you are in good company. Someone here has felt your pain and frustration.

Second, not trying to down you or down play your frustration, it's a car. And it is man made. And we all know that anything man made is not perfect. So why do we expect it? You do not have to keep this car for another year. There are only several million other molded forms of metal out there that have four wheels. If the car is causeing so much stress then get rid of it. Sell the car and by another with the cash! People do it all the time and you should not feel bad about it.

About the code delima that you have right now. Like said before, get the code and post it here. That way we can help you out. That is what the rest of us are here for. To help relieve stress for everyone else. I myself am having the P0420 problem and have determined that it is my pre-cats. So I am planning on gutting them after the first of the year. I do not plan on laying down that kind of cash for them. This is just a part of a plan that I have drawn together for modding my car. I understand that this may not be an option for you, expecially since you are still covered under warrenty (Lucky You!!).

Just take it easy. Everything will find it's own way. Hang in there if you can. We are all here to help.

OBD-II monitors the cat in the exhaust manifold, so if it is a cat code (P0420 or P0430), it would likely be either a dying downstream O2 sensor or a bad manifold cat.

The downstream O2s (one in the exhaust y-pipe, one in the "front" manifold) are very easy to replace. They will run you in the range of $60 or so. The only tools you would need are a set of jackstands (NEVER EVER go under a car not supported by jackstands) and an O2 socket - a 7/8" socket (close enough to our metric sensor) on a 3/8" drive with a notch in the side for the wires to fit. NAPA carries the O2 socket (PM me if you want the part number), as well as Bosch sensors and Echlin (house electronics brand) sensors which are made by NGK. Cost is about the same for either.

A new manifold is very expensive (in the range of $400 IIRC on parts alone, and not cheap on labor either). Heck, junkyard manifolds are about $100 or so. However, it is covered by an 8/80 emissions warranty and if they are replaced would cost nothing on a 96 with 75k miles.

Single/dual exhaust makes no difference, as all V6's have dual exhaust up until the Y pipe.

Well thanks guys... I feel better about it now.
I know it's just a car and I shouldn't expect it to be perfect... but after driving it with virtually no problems for four years and then everything just falls to shi#! It starts to wear you down.

Money is kind of tight right now and due to circumstances with wife going back to school and owning a House, new Windstar SEL, and twins at home. I need to continue driving this car for at least another year. The plan is to get as much out of it as I can. Got my eyes set on a 2002 Mazda Millenia or the new 6...

Anyway, I've read many threads on this sight which has left me with hope for this automobile. Without this web site, I wouldn't know what to do. I have learned quite a bit from you guys. I quess it's just the stress missing work when the car acts up - I'm sure you can inderstand.

As far as what I have had replaced on this Mystique, if you want to know... I will give you a list.
Now this is just over the past year... Remeber, I never had a problem with it other than the fuel lid door not unlatching. This is what I have listed on the paperwork from the dealerships.

Problems started in December of 2001.

Battery Indicator Flashes on & Headlights flicker when driving.
Cause: Battery wire loose to back of alternator and burned terminal in alternator â?? wires arcing.
Tested Charging Circuits and replaced Alternator and Regulator â?? Repaired burned wires.
------------------------
Power door locks, lock by themselves at different times-checked can not find any problems.
------------------------
Replace Headlamp Switch Connector (Recall work).
------------------------
Rear Brake Disc and Rotor Repair and Front Brake Service-Rear Brakes locking up.
------------------------
Vibration when braking as car slows down to about 30 - 20mph.
Could not find anything wrong with brakes.
------------------------
Heater Blower Resistor and Connector Replacement (Recall work).
------------------------
Rear right window will not roll down.
Replaced Motor.
------------------------
Vehicle Stalled on highway in rush hour traffic (Dallas TX).
Replaced Crank Shaft Sensor.
------------------------
Vehicle Stalled again on highway in rush hour traffic - same as before.
Replaced Fuel Pump.
Replaced Fuel Sensor.
Replaced Fuel Filter.
------------------------
Vehicle Stalled again on highway in rush hour traffic.
Replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor - again.
Replaced Overlay Crankshaft Sensor Wiring.
Replaced Computer System.
------------------------
Vehicle Stalled again on highway in rush hour traffic.
Replaced Wiring Harness (Recall work that was not performed by LINCOLN MERCURY when vehicle was taken in with recall notice)
------------------------
Vehicle overheated and made clacking noise - vibration hard enough to blur vision while driving.
Replaced Water Pump.
Replaced Broken Blade.
Replaced Upper Radiator Hose.
Replaced Thermostat.
Replaced Temperature Sender.
------------------------
All four new tires.
Yokahoma A550H B
------------------------
Coolant leaking at water pump area.
Replaced water pump and coolant.
------------------------
Coolant leaking at water pump area again.
Replaced water pump and coolant.
------------------------
Coolant pouring out at water pump area again.
Replaced water pump and coolant for the fourth time this year.
Service Department classified this problem as faulty mechanic installation - water pumps had not been installed correctly.
------------------------
Replaced Drive Belt.
------------------------

So as you can see, after paying for all of this with no end in sight... this is why I'm a bit frustrated. I expect to have normal upkeep - but, when will all this stop? I take excellent care of this car - but that doesn't seem to matter. I have never had any problems with any of the other FORDs I have owned. Escort GT, Probe GT, Ranger Splash and now a Windstar SEL... I hope after I repair this problem... I goes for at least a few moths without a hitch.

Anyway, I appreaciate you guys giving me advise.
I plan to get it back over to Auto Zone and get the code number.
I will post it Wednesday.

Later,
Eurythmian

Originally posted by Eurythmian02:

---

Vehicle Stalled on highway in rush hour traffic (Dallas TX).
Replaced Crank Shaft Sensor.
------------------------
Vehicle Stalled again on highway in rush hour traffic - same as before.
Replaced Fuel Pump.
Replaced Fuel Sensor.
Replaced Fuel Filter.
------------------------
Vehicle Stalled again on highway in rush hour traffic.
Replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor - again.
Replaced Overlay Crankshaft Sensor Wiring.
Replaced Computer System.
------------------------
Vehicle Stalled again on highway in rush hour traffic.
Replaced Wiring Harness (Recall work that was not performed by LINCOLN MERCURY when vehicle was taken in with recall notice)
------------------------
Vehicle overheated and made clacking noise - vibration hard enough to blur vision while driving.
Replaced Water Pump.
Replaced Broken Blade.
Replaced Upper Radiator Hose.
Replaced Thermostat.
Replaced Temperature Sender.
------------------------
Coolant leaking at water pump area.
Replaced water pump and coolant.
------------------------
Coolant leaking at water pump area again.
Replaced water pump and coolant.
------------------------
Coolant pouring out at water pump area again.
Replaced water pump and coolant for the fourth time this year.
Service Department classified this problem as faulty mechanic installation - water pumps had not been installed correctly.
------------------------

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One wonders if this is all related, huh?

See if the radiator is clogged with water pump debris.
If so take all of your receipts back to the dealer and see if they will work with you on some kind of credit for their incompetence. If not you may want to pursue it with Ford or even arbitration since that's no small chunk of change.

I plan on it this time.

After reading and having answers to my question pertaining the water pump issue, I want them to check to see if there is pieces of them inside the radiator.

The stalling was due to the wiring harness recall which the LINCOLN MERCURY dealership did not do when I took the car in - back in '97. My FORD dealership turned the LINCOLN MERCURY dealership in and the main office was suppose to investigate this issue. (What ever!!!)

I just want a car that runs without over heating and falling apart.
Is that too much to ask for?

Oh, I have also had the trans fluid flushed twice this year - just to prevent the trans from falling apart. The first time it over heated, I noticed it slipping. I figured the fluid boiled and needed to be drained. I've tried to prevent major repair.

Hopefully the FORD dealership will work with me - since I bought a $35,000.00 van off them. If not... I'm ready to start throwing some punches.

are the precats covered my the 8/80k also? cause my odb tool comes in the mail today, im finnally gonna solve my gas milage problem. i got a 97 with 76k miles, so i might luck out. if i gotta replace the precats with my own money, im gonna get headers.