Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Brakes You-make'em Brakes?

Originally posted by Todd TCE:

---

Looks like I'm still the 'Best Buy' of the bunch. And still people don't have a clue what it takes and the cost to do so. Time is money.

---

BAT kit starts at $450 (base kit - fits 278mm rotors) to $675 including 300mm rotors. These kits use the Billet Dynalite calipers (2.5lbs)

Either of these kits will fit under the stock 16" SVT rims (The latter with ~5mm spacers)

I know none of your kits fit any 16" rims, but how well does your 12.2" kit fit under even 17" rims? The 13" kit would surely would need 18's right???
That eliminates a lot of folks not wanting to have to spend a couple grand on ultralite 17's (& tires) just to upgrade their brakes.

I think you made an outstanding kit. Not knocking the package in anyway!

However since I want to keep my stock 16" rims I am all for a kit (or better yet just brackets) to mount some dynalites in place of the stock calipers. And afterall; Why pay retail if at all possible!

BTW - Does anyone know if the Dynalite calipers use the same SS hose as the stock calipers? The pictures show them the same, but we all know how pictures can be...

The 12.2 NDL fits the stock rims with the use of a minor spacer. Have to dig up my notes on size.

Just about any decent 16" aftermarket wheel fits the 12.2 kits. It's all about spoke clearance.

The 13s will fit about any 17" wheel with no problem.

Stay away from those multi piece wheels and you'll be fine. They will not likely fit the BAT kit either.

With these combos and the multi piece hat/rotors you can 'upsize' at any time by fitting enlarge brackets, new rotors and wheels. To go from stock to 17s for example.

The BAT kit is going to be the least expensive, but as they use stock rotors your brake torque values will be increased by; 1. Aggressive pads and or 2. Enlarged piston areas. Both have their draw backs- 1. Dusty, fast wearing, noisy pads and 2. Longer pedal stroke. Keep in mind that if one or both of these are applied that the rotor will see some real increases in temps and reach it's thremal capacitiy faster. As this is the same problems the car may have now, it's really a band aide soulution. Meaning if you run them hard the heat will be greater than what the stock calipers create and warpage is still a very big issue. But yes, they will likely stop better for a given period of time. Think of it this way; rotor mass generally equates to higher 'head room' for the operational level of the kit.

In my case, I've chosen to do it this way: Larger rotors (two piece with curved vanes if chosen for imporved cooling) for the 'head room' and increased brake torque, modest piston size for a firm pedal, and reasonable pads for the street to keep the noise/dust/wear down. I, like you, am not knocking the others just stating my design criteria. The do-it-yourselfers may come up with a plan, but unlikely it will be as complete as this for the money. And of course they don't offer support when you call with a problem, or do much for advertising !

Best wishes to everyone for the Holiday and don't forget to put brake kits on you shopping list, free rotor upgrade and all!!

Originally posted by Todd TCE:

---

...Just about any decent 16" aftermarket wheel fits the 12.2 kits. It's all about spoke clearance...

---

I'm running 16"x7" SSR GT1's with (I think) a 42mm offset. Safe or not for the NDLs?

Also, what size of spacer are we talking here with the stock rims (E1)?

I'll be in the market for brakes (all 4 corners) shortly, and I'm really like what I see in your kits...

Any "chatter" with the NDL's?

Shoot me a pic of them. The spacer I used was about .090 if I recall. For the stock wheels that is.

Chatter? Are you referring to pad knock? If so, there may be a bit as all the Wilwood calipers run pad retaining pins, but they also have some new spring plates on the top and bottom to reduce any pad rattle. Better rattle than stuck pads however...!

I'll try to get some close-ups tomorrow, as you are most likely not going to be able to tell squat from these:

Clicky

EDIT: Fixed the link.

I'd fall over if you weren't good with those and maybe even the BSL calipers. The area of concern is at the L in the spoke. These appear to have ample clearance to the caliper. NDL is no problem here. And you can get the FREE rotor upgrade if you stick with the 12.2 kit. Have to be for a 16"er.