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OH MY GOD...
This has been one major headache after another! First of all, I went to Autozone and bought a set of plug wires, total cost $55.19. However, NOBODY in the area will put them on - they will only put THEIR wires on. Second, once all the local shops learned the V6 is mounted transversely they told me they wouldn't even consider working on it. Thridly, several guys have said that they think there is something electronic wrong with the car, not plug wires. (the idle revs to 2500, drops almost to 0, revs back up to 2000, drops to almost 0, etc. etc. etc. plus MAJOR vibration, harshness)
OK...so...first of all, WHY won't anyone work on this freakin engine!?!? Second...would the idle problem be caused by plug wires...or do I have something else wrong?
I've reset the computer to no avail. I think I'm going to spend the $50 or so dollars for a computer test...maybe someone can tell me what is wrong with this damn V6...
HELP!?!?
1995 Contour SE
2.5L Duratec V6
No mods, 130,000 miles
Known as the "C-ride" =)
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Originally posted by TDawg76:
OH MY GOD...
This has been one major headache after another! First of all, I went to Autozone and bought a set of plug wires, total cost $55.19. However, NOBODY in the area will put them on - they will only put THEIR wires on. Second, once all the local shops learned the V6 is mounted transversely they told me they wouldn't even consider working on it. Thridly, several guys have said that they think there is something electronic wrong with the car, not plug wires. (the idle revs to 2500, drops almost to 0, revs back up to 2000, drops to almost 0, etc. etc. etc. plus MAJOR vibration, harshness)
OK...so...first of all, WHY won't anyone work on this freakin engine!?!? Second...would the idle problem be caused by plug wires...or do I have something else wrong?
I've reset the computer to no avail. I think I'm going to spend the $50 or so dollars for a computer test...maybe someone can tell me what is wrong with this damn V6...
HELP!?!?
plug wires are simple to install yourself on the duratec..you should be able to do it easily..just remove and replace one at a time...
new,new ride!
'99 svt
black/mnb
'95 mustang gt sold!
'98 svt #800 sold!
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I had posted previously that I don't know my way around an engine bay and I can't do them myself.
Anyone else have ideas as to what may be wrong?
1995 Contour SE
2.5L Duratec V6
No mods, 130,000 miles
Known as the "C-ride" =)
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T,
Ok, just take the wires back and use the 50 bucks towards the shop test. Even if you have to take the car to a Midas shop. I understand your situation. I have a friend that wont even try to change his own oil!
I suggested to get a friend to help you put them on. Most mechanics will not install parts that you buy for several reasons. Mostly warrenty, others is money.
With your engine reving weird like that and no "check engine light" sounds strange, but I have seen stranger. Might be best to just get it to a shop and let them take a look at it. Like I said, even if it is a chain shop such as Midas or Pepboys.
Sorry to hear that you are having such a hard time. Wish you all the best.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Thanks unisys12,
I think it's weird that the CEL isn't on with the engine behaving so oddly, also. It did this last year and it was well over $1000 to fix, though at that time the CEL was ON. They replaced the computer, EGR valve, MAF sensor, O2 sensors, plus did a tune-up -- all on my dime! Surely after only one year and less than 30,000 miles those same components could not have gone bad!?!? *sigh* I dunno...
After I drop $50 on a computer test I'll let you know what the mechanic says. Peace out.
1995 Contour SE
2.5L Duratec V6
No mods, 130,000 miles
Known as the "C-ride" =)
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A loose or leaking vacuum hose can cause all sorts of idling problems.
95 Contour Zetec, ATX (wrecked, sitting in the barn)
95 Mystique Zetec, MTX
2000 Taurus SEL 3.0L Duratec
1994 Crown Victoria LX 4.6 V8
1993 Chevy Silverado 4.3 V6
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Originally posted by bentleywarren:
A loose or leaking vacuum hose can cause all sorts of idling problems.
My thoughts exactly. Originally posted by TDawg76:
I'm a college student and don't have much money and I need some sort of partially definitive game plan before I start draining my savings account!
Originally posted by TDawg76:
I don't know my way around an engine bay - can someone provide an explanation for "dummies?"
Unless you have a good friend or family member that works on cars, bringing you car to a mechanic is a crap shoot. In my opinion, most are rip-off artists, and very few are honest. Having said that, I would suggest learning to work on your car so that you don't blow your whole savings account trying to fix something that is probably simple. Replacing the ignition wires is one of the simplest things to do on our cars. The only tool that you will need is a socket wrench (to remove water pump pulley shield (the plastic cover that is just to the right of the oil cap as you look at the engine from the front of the car)). You should also get dielectric grease (available at your local auto parts store for ~ $1-$3) to coat the inside of the ignition wire boots. One more tip (as mentioned above) is to replace one wire at a time, since you don't want to cross-wire the plugs. Here are the detailed instructions from the Ford Technical Service Publication (in case you decide to tackle the problem yourself): Ignition Wires
Removal
1. On 2.5L engine, remove water pump pulley shield.
2. CAUTION: Do not pull on the ignition wire directly as the wire may separate from the connector inside the boot.
Disconnect ignition wires from spark plugs (12405) by grasping the ignition wire spark plug boot and twisting slightly in both directions to free it.
3. CAUTION: Do not pull on the ignition wire directly as the wire may separate from the connector inside the spark plug boot.
Disconnect the ignition wires from the ignition coil (12029) by squeezing the locking tabs and twisting while pulling upward.
4. Open ignition wire separators (12297) and remove ignition wire.
Installation
1. CAUTION: Proper installation of ignition wires is critical to vehicle operation. If one ignition wires is not properly installed on the spark plug or ignition coil, both spark plugs connected to that ignition coil may not fire properly.
Whenever an ignition wire is removed from a spark plug or ignition coil, or a new ignition wire is installed, apply Ford Silicone Dielectric Compound D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A to the boots prior to installation using a small, clean tool. Coat the entire interior surface of the boots.
2. Install each ignition wire to the proper terminal on the ignition coil. The terminals on the ignition coil are numbered. Make sure the boots are fully seated and that both ignition coil boot locking tabs are engaged.
3. Route ignition wire through ignition wire separators and close ignition wire separators.
4. Connect ignition wires to spark plugs.
5. On 2.5L engine, install water pump pulley shield.
96 Contour SE
Duratec V6 24-valve 2.5L ATX
108,000 mi.
Replaced: crankshaft w/ DMD, EGR valve (clogged), EVR, DPFE, PCV valve, evap emissions hose & tube (cracked), window regulator (broken), LH & RH PCV tubes, UIM gasket (leak), ignition coil
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Thanks for the posts...
Not to seem like a smartass, but if changing the plug wires on our car is so simple, why has every single mechanice in town declined to work on the 2.5 V6? They have all taken one look at where the rear spark plugs are and told me "no way."
Second, what kind of vaccuum lines and hoses can I look at to see if there is a leak or hole or something?
Thanks again...
1995 Contour SE
2.5L Duratec V6
No mods, 130,000 miles
Known as the "C-ride" =)
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You could always go to your local auto parts store (pep boys, autozone) and buy a Chiltons or Haynes Manual for the car, they have easy to follow instructions on doing just about anything to your car... I have an I4 in my car so my plug wires are right there at the top of the engine, very simple, a monkey could do them, I don't know about the Duratec engine though, never worked on one, except changing the oil...
~*TJ*~ 97 GL Sport Zetec MTX
~*RIP*~ Connie~*1/21/02*
Sold the Zetec, now the prouud owner of an 01 VW GTi VR6 - Sold the GTI now have 97 Mustang Cobra
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Originally posted by TDawg76:
Thanks for the posts...
Not to seem like a smartass, but if changing the plug wires on our car is so simple, why has every single mechanice in town declined to work on the 2.5 V6? They have all taken one look at where the rear spark plugs are and told me "no way."
Second, what kind of vaccuum lines and hoses can I look at to see if there is a leak or hole or something?
Thanks again...
dude ANYONE can change the plug wires on a duratec...just pop your hood and have a look..it is SIMPLE...YOU could do it in less than 30 minutes yourself....damn an experienced mechanic can probably do it in less than 5 minutes....it is a piece of cake job...the mechanics in your town must be total dumba$$es...the rear wires just pull off...how hard is that???hell i even changed my rear plugs with nothing more than a ratchet and an extension(no swivel or anything)and i didn't even remove my coil pack...took a few minutes...any mechanic that is scared to work on your engine must be stupid as hell...it really is an easy do it yourself task...
new,new ride!
'99 svt
black/mnb
'95 mustang gt sold!
'98 svt #800 sold!
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