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I've heard others express similar problems, but have yet to get any sort of consensus on a fix. I have the 95 Duratec V6 - very suddenly the car has a terribly rough idle, loss of power, harsh hesitation and vibration, though it has yet to die. The mileage is now 130K -- at 100K I had Rockwall Ford perform a tune-up. The plugs, serpentine belt, coolant, ATX fluid, waterpump, fuel filter, air filter, O2 sensor (1 was bad), idle control valve, and MAF sensor were all replaced (but not plug wires for some odd reason). I've had someone suggest a tune-up...but I hesitate to pay for another tune-up while the plugs are only 30K old...but could the wires be bad??? Also, a local shop says they need to put it on the computer...but the CEL is NOT lit up...so would a $50 computer test actually turn anything up? I'm a college student and don't have much money and I need some sort of partially definitive game plan before I start draining my savings account! I've already replaced the air and fuel filters AGAIN to no avail, and also disconnected the battery and let the car re-learn the idle...no help. Should I shell out another $100 on a tune-up, or pay the $50 first for a computer test? Someone please help me...this is driving me INSANE!
1995 Contour SE
2.5L Duratec V6
No mods, 130,000 miles
Known as the "C-ride" =)
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Plug wires. At 130 K, I have to believe you need new ones.
95 Contour Zetec, ATX (wrecked, sitting in the barn)
95 Mystique Zetec, MTX
2000 Taurus SEL 3.0L Duratec
1994 Crown Victoria LX 4.6 V8
1993 Chevy Silverado 4.3 V6
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Joined: Dec 2001
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Hard-core CEG'er
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although I have a zetec my plug wires went one day and I got a horrible stumble on acceleration, new plug wires took care of it, that was around 108k
- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd
- 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd
Official NE-CEG Contour/Mustang Family
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Joined: Oct 2002
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CEG\'er
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With no cel, id guess plugs wires, especially at your mile-age
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I am suprised that you did not mention the PCV valve - and that you let the air filter go 30k.
The CEL does not have to be on, there may be codes stored anyway.
Vacuum leaks are often the cause of this kind of problem. Check the valve and hose which are under the throttle body.
I assume that you do not know if it's running too rich or to lean.
A computer diagnostic will tell you if a sensor is bad, or point to the problem if it's mechanical.
"Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it" -George Santayana
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Well the air filter didn't help the problem, anyways. And I don't know where/what the throttle body is. Is there a way to disconnect one of the plug wires and visually inspect it for problems? I don't know my way around an engine bay - can someone provide an explanation for "dummies?"
1995 Contour SE
2.5L Duratec V6
No mods, 130,000 miles
Known as the "C-ride" =)
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 10
New CEG\'er
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On the advice of a local mechanic, I misted a spray of water onto the front plug wires and noticed "arcing" between the wires. This should be a good indication that my plug wires are bad, right???
1995 Contour SE
2.5L Duratec V6
No mods, 130,000 miles
Known as the "C-ride" =)
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,944
Hard-core CEG'er
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T,
Yes I would have to say that arching of the wires is bad.
Since noone has really touched on your "computer" question, I would like to touch on that.
Today, alot of people think that just because a mechanic says "it needs to be put on the computer" that this means a scan tool. This is not always the case. They are most likely talking about a good old fashioned engine analyzer. These things cost serious money, so you have to pay even to hook-up to one and 50 bucks is about right. Most of the time, a tech will scan for codes stored in memory, take that information and if nothing very obvious is found they plug your car up to an analyzer which can give more detailed information such as emissions, timing, visiually see the spark curve, etc... Compile all the information and make specific checks of certian items or circuits.
I hope this clears things up a little. There really is no way to get someone to understand fully what goes on in shop (a good one anyway) and when I was a mechanic I tried to involve the customer as much a possible so that they might get a better picture. Sometimes though, it is better to leave well enough alone and find a shop that you know you can trust and fill comfortable with.
As for shelling out another 100 smackers for another tune-up? DON'T! All you need is the plug wires. Since you say that you don't know your way around the engine bay and need to save money, ask a friend that does to assist you in changeing the wires yourself. You will find that it is fairly rewarding.
Last edited by unisys12; 11/16/02 01:05 AM.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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T, I ran across this on the site tonight. It gives you something to go on at least, working around the wires and plugs of your car. Hope it helps you out some.
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by TDawg76:
On the advice of a local mechanic, I misted a spray of water onto the front plug wires and noticed "arcing" between the wires. This should be a good indication that my plug wires are bad, right???
try those... you can reset the computer by disconnecting your battery or pulling fuses 4 and 11.
Hugo
------
98 SVT - 53k mi - SOLD
04 Mazda3 S 5-Dr
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