Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Contour CEL Merry Go Round

We have had our 98 Contour GL into the dealer on 5 occasions,
and each time gotten a different assessmant and different codes for repairs.
All totaled we spent $1812.00 for a total of 6 different codes.
We had 1380 twice, and 1464, 82, 13 and 2081 once each. We
are now looking at replacing the
variable cam timing solenoid and sensor. They only want $1300.00 to do this,
and only guarantee it will tell us if we need a new transmission.
The car runs perfectly since I replaced the thermostat and coolant,
had the tranny filter and fluid changed,
but it won't pass smog in CA because the CEL won't turn off.
The emissions are perfect, in the middle where it should be.
Can I treat it like a wisdom tooth and just yank it? Can I wire around it to fool
the smog machines? Or should I just run it off Land's End at 3500rpms?
Car has 4-cyl,2.0 Lt, EFI, DOHC. Service Manager says VCT Solenoid
should only be on 6 and 8 cyls. ??????? Any thoughts?

What CEL are you currently receiving?

I hate to say this, but something sounds fishy...

I say this because you state that you have received a P1380 twice, and that seems to be the exact same part that they are talking about replacing.

P1380=VCT (Variable Cam Timing) Solenoid Valve circuit Short or Open

The following is from a document titled "1999 MY OBD-II System Operation Summary for Gasoline Engines":

Camshaft Position Control (also known as Variable Cam Timing) is a system which is able to advance and retard camshaft timing relative to the crankshaft. This phasing is controlled by a duty-cycled output. The output driver is checked electrically for opens and shorts (P1380, P1385). The system is checked functionally by monitoring the closed loop phase control correction. If the proper phasing cannot be maintained and the system has an advance or retard error greater than the malfunction threshold, a CPC control malfunction is indicated (P1381 P1383, P1386 P1388).

Also, a P1464 might have been caused by a mistake on their part when they ran a test on your car. This CEL seems to indicate that the A/C or defrost was on when they ran a test.

And I don't even see P2081 listed anywhere!

Also, what are 82 and 13? All CEL codes should be four digits. See http://www.contour.org/FAQ/FAQ.php?s=probs&display=checkengine for more info.

Originally posted by GeoPappas:

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All CEL codes should be four digits.

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Actually OBD-II CEL codes should be 3 or 4 digits. 0-800 are general and 801 & above are model specific.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:

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Actually OBD-II CEL codes should be 3 or 4 digits. 0-800 are general and 801 & above are model specific.

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  See <http://www.obdii.com/dtcanatomy.html>.

i dunno how the emissions tests are done, if they just look to see if teh lights on, remove the bulb from the instrument cluster.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:

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Originally posted by GeoPappas:

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All CEL codes should be four digits.

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Actually OBD-II CEL codes should be 3 or 4 digits. 0-800 are general and 801 & above are model specific.

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I understand that CEL codes can be less than 800, but they still would be formatted like P0XXX.

What I was trying to say, was that "82" and "13" don't follow the standard formatting for CEL codes (i.e., PXXXX). And if you put them into standard formatting for CEL codes (e.g., P0082 and P0013), they don't show up on the CEL list.

So I was wondering what threedub was trying to allude to.

Is it possible that removing the negative battery cable will reset the CEL long enough to get it through the smog test?

in my opinion i think u should take your car to autozone and get them to double check your current codes and come back here with the info....and i dont think removing the bulb from the cel light would work....part of the test i believe it to check that the light is functional...if the key is turned and the light doesn't come on at all u may be failed on for that reason

find a good shop in the area that u can take your car to and avoid the ridiculous charges for repairs

as far as resetting the cel...i dont know how long it takes your car to throw the cel after startup but when i had one it would come on soon as the engine was warm....if yours is the same it wouldn't do much good maybe to try resetting before the test

Originally posted by threedub:

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Is it possible that removing the negative battery cable will reset the CEL long enough to get it through the smog test?

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In California, probably not. If you have an OBD-II vehicle, they'll probably plug in to the PCM to see whether the "periodic" tests, such as catalyst efficiency, have been completed. If you reset the PCM (e.g., by disconnecting the battery) just before submitting your vehicle for an emissions inspection, the test facility probably wouldn't permit it to pass. It certainly wouldn't pass if the CEL has been unplugged or otherwise disabled.

Here's what the CA Web site says:

Originally posted by The State of California:

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What are the elements of a Smog Check?
In order for your vehicle to receive a Smog Check certificate, it must pass all the following elements:

• A visual inspection, in which all required emissions control components and systems are identified, and must appear connected and functional.
  
• A functional inspection, which includes checking the operation of the emissions control warning indicators, ("Check Engine" light), the ignition timing, the gas cap, and the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system (if the vehicle is so equipped and a Two-Speed Idle (TSI) test is being performed). A functional check of a vehicle&#8217;s On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) system is also performed on 1996 and newer vehicles. Diagnostic information stored in the vehicle&#8217;s computer is reported on the Vehicle Inspection Report (VIR) that the motorist receives at the end of the Smog Check inspection. OBD information can save time and money when repairs are required.
  
• A tailpipe emissions test, which measures exhaust emissions using a probe inserted into the vehicle&#8217;s tailpipe during testing. Vehicles pass or fail this part of the Smog Check inspection based on established emission standards, sometimes called cutpoints.

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Isn't bulb removal a pretty drawn out ordeal? I can fix a lot on a car but the reason I quit working on them in 1980 was all the computer oriented gobblety-gook.