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#446162 09/26/02 06:50 PM
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Swazo Offline OP
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Don't want to spend tons of cash for a crappy aftermarket clutch? How about a custom ceramic/organic street/strip clutch? I had this one built for my current upgrade for my '98 SVT.

http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/pictures

$350- Clutch kit including new slave cylinder.


2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4 1964 Chevrolet Impala SS 1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
#446163 09/26/02 10:02 PM
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2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4 1964 Chevrolet Impala SS 1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
#446164 09/26/02 11:19 PM
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How does it hold?


99' Silver Frost SVT 18" Racing Hart C2's Fidanza Flywheel SPEC Stage III clutch Torsen Diff. Color matched Headlight covers Ding guards removed B&M Short Shifter Koni's and Ground controls NGK Iridium plugs
#446165 09/27/02 12:11 AM
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Swazo Offline OP
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Originally posted by Superperk:
How does it hold?


To be honest I'm premature for putting this up before I even get my car back! My bad, I'll get it back tomarrow...but until I get it broke in, that's a good question. BUT, my friend's are running the same lining in their '91 300ZX TT, '91 Civic w/ '00 B20 Hybrid and built Integra trans.(Turbo soon), and a '99 'Stang GT. The hotter it gets, the better it holds. With the other side being an organic material it makes it where you can actually feather it. I can get them with a FULL ceramic clutch disc, but that is the type where it is either in or out.

This is why I bought this clutch to go into my car.

I was going to buy the unorthadox clutch, but I found that kevlar DOES NOT BITE any harder than organic material. Many will even say it doesn't bite as hard atall. It is easy on flywheels though making it where if you go through clutch disc's on a regular basis and wish to attempt to re-use your pressure plate and not resurface your flywheel, you most likely can. Kevlar will also glaze over when coming into contact with any oil contaminant of any kind (Engine oil or tranny fluid). That means NO bite and it'll just spin.
In the past I have also used the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch system and I have never been more pissed off to learn that they use PLASTIC in their clutch face material. I ended up cooking one on my Eclipse GSX after a 1K break in period. It took about less than a month to kiss that one.
I'm getting these custom clutch disc's from a Centerforce, Clutch Master's, and an ACT dealer. I went in asking for a clutch that I can get good holding power and bite, LONG LIFE, and still have it streetable. They grabbed a clutch from each manufacturer and pointed out that NONE of them use pressure plates other than oem ones. They've ran all the parts numbers to make sure, but other than counter weights (On very few models) they only squirt them down with paint and slap a sticker on them. THEN, they got into the disc's they use. I didn't want a pucked disc, so we only spoke about all the full faced or staggerd faced types. They showed that the Clutch Master's is a kevlar/organic blend which shares the undesireable affects of 100% kevlar and oil products. Still a decent clutch, but not for the price. Centerforce......(hahahahahahah), that crap is a PLASTIC blend with organic material! JUNK! ACT clutches I actually liked, but the price was way up there too. (I don't even think they offer a clutch for a Contour.)

After talking extensivly to these guys, I had to think a bit. I took a week and went back and dove back into it with the idea, "Money is no object....I want the best clutch for my car that will last." (I went through clutches in my ol' '96 Eclipse GSX too many times)

So What you would get is up to you, but I chose to get ceramic on the flywheel side and organic material that is backed by metal (better than stock, I'll find out for sure why) on the pressure plate side. If you'd want a full ceramic clutch, I can get them that way. This is based on a Luk Gold series clutch. They drill out the rivits and replace the oem lining with the lining types I have described.

Again I should wait until I get my car back and see how well it works in the SVT platform. But so far, all my friends have run these in most of their cars and they seem to be better than anything I have seen. But, we'll see how well my SVT handels this.

Is there anyone that would be interested in this type of clutch system (Other than myself) if all goes well? Look at my car as the R&D!


2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4 1964 Chevrolet Impala SS 1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
#446166 09/27/02 03:38 AM
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Swazo,
What price range are talking about here? And how many horses are you putting down with your 98 csvt to burn through them so quickly? I have a 98csvt as well, and I've had my clutch for nearly 30k, the first one (worth 20k) had a problem with the clutch line rubbing, so warranty replaced the whole thing. . .

What are the advantages to a full ceramic clutch versus the one you got??

#446167 09/27/02 04:06 AM
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Swazo Offline OP
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I haven't had any clutch cooking problems on this car yet, but I really don't want to. I just did my homework to make sure I didn't run into bad clutch issues. The advantages of running a full ceramic would be instant bite. It is not very streetable if atall. It's either in or out, so you pretty much dump it at mid-high rpms.....but say goodbye to your MTX75!


2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4 1964 Chevrolet Impala SS 1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
#446168 09/27/02 02:58 PM
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I'm interested. From the other guys running similar setups I'm assuming it'll hold up to my 3.0L S/C?


Now owner of 0 SVT's. my web page
#446169 09/27/02 03:27 PM
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Swazo Offline OP
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Yes, it'd hold up with your 3L and S/C'er.


Oh yeah, these are going for $350 for the Pressure plate, Clutch disc, Slave Cylinder, alignment tool and inspection cover.

Last edited by Swazo; 09/27/02 03:33 PM.

2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4 1964 Chevrolet Impala SS 1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
#446170 09/27/02 04:23 PM
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what flywheel are you going to run with that?? $350 is a good price for a clutch, if you can hook us up with a flywheel package as well, that'd be great!

#446171 09/27/02 05:45 PM
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Originally posted by Swazo:
The advantages of running a full ceramic would be instant bite. It is not very streetable if at all. It's either in or out, so you pretty much dump it at mid-high rpms.....but say goodbye to your MTX75!



Isn't this a double negative? Not in sentance structure but why would I put a clutch that only bits well when I dump it only to send a shockwave throught a tranny that can't hold it? And I sure has hell don't want to be in stop and go with a clutch like this, I'll look like I'm 12 learning to drive a stick

I have a centerforce for my SC 3L, IMO its the best street useable clutch that can handle a little abuse every now and then. And remeber if your clutch isn;t slipping a little with a high rpm dump something else is!


I offer PnP Heads for all durtec's details at PnPheads.com or jesse@pnpheads.com for details.
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