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ok, so let's say... hypothetically... I'm bleeding my brakes and clutch today, and hypothetically, after finishing the clutch and the LF/RR circuit, I'm attempting to loosen the bleeder screw on the RF brake, and the bleeder screw snaps off because it's seized. Hypothetically. How big a deal is this? In order to bleed the breaks now, will I need to replace the caliper, or can the bleeder screw be drilled out and re-threaded? There is no fluid leaking from the snapped screw, so it must be seized pretty good.
1999 Red / Tan SVT
#1969 of 2760
Built 4/21/99
K&N, DMD, FMS Wires, ES Insert / Bushings, PF End Links
17" FSVT 5-Spokes
Factory Spoiler
35% Tint All Around
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Usually you can use an Ezy-Out (or broken bolt extractor), at least I have used them for broken head bolts (fun). I would however wonder if the bleed channel might cause you some trouble when you are drilling the hole for the Ezy-Out. Anyway you will definately need to caliper off to work on it, and you will definately need a new bleeder screw, maybe it time to upgrade to speed-bleeders. Good luck!
Geoff C. Turner
99 Black SVT -mine
99 Blue SE V6 ATX -mom's
96 Black SE MTX -sister's
All with 278mm front rotors
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Actually, hole in center (Bleed Channel) is a good guide if you need to drill for the EZ out.
My name is Richard. I was a Contouraholic.
NOW: '02 Mazda B3000 Dual Sport, Black
BEFORE: '99 Contour SE Sport
Duratec ATX Spruce Green
PIAA 510's, Foglight MOD, K&N Drop-in
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so how difficult is it to remove the caliper?
1999 Red / Tan SVT
#1969 of 2760
Built 4/21/99
K&N, DMD, FMS Wires, ES Insert / Bushings, PF End Links
17" FSVT 5-Spokes
Factory Spoiler
35% Tint All Around
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 451
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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In reply to:
so how difficult is it to remove the caliper?
easy. just take the brake line off and unbolt it. once you are under there looking at it it is pretty much self explanetory(sp?). well it was for me. Ben
95 SE ATX
Electric red
mucho mods
2005 Scion xB
Black Sand Pearl
tinted windows
red leather steering wheel
US Army Mechanic
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where can I get an "e-z out", and appx. how much are they?
1999 Red / Tan SVT
#1969 of 2760
Built 4/21/99
K&N, DMD, FMS Wires, ES Insert / Bushings, PF End Links
17" FSVT 5-Spokes
Factory Spoiler
35% Tint All Around
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,228
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hardware store, Sears, Automotive Parts store. Also called screw extractors. They look a a tap but instead of threads, they have a reverse spiral (kind of like a drill bit) that jams into a hole you drilled. Allows you to back the screw/broken bleeder out.
Not expensive, but get better ones,. The cheap ones break and just compound the problem.
Harbor Freight Cheap Set
My name is Richard. I was a Contouraholic.
NOW: '02 Mazda B3000 Dual Sport, Black
BEFORE: '99 Contour SE Sport
Duratec ATX Spruce Green
PIAA 510's, Foglight MOD, K&N Drop-in
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thanks for the help - much appreciated. I was just looking at these on craftsman.com and wasn't sure if they were the right ones. Now I'll have to see in we have those up here in Canuck Land.
1999 Red / Tan SVT
#1969 of 2760
Built 4/21/99
K&N, DMD, FMS Wires, ES Insert / Bushings, PF End Links
17" FSVT 5-Spokes
Factory Spoiler
35% Tint All Around
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Posts: 299
CEG\'er
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I'd advise you by-pass the 'taper' type extractors and get a 'drive in' spline type.The taper type tend to spread the bolt/bleeder etc and make it even harder to get out......
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Wasn't thinking ....Terry's right. Though they require a little more searching.
There are another type, with integral drill bit. You use them in your drill, reverse direction. The drill hole, thread themselves into the hole, then extract the screw. Forgot the name, but they looked pretty good. Check a machine shop supplier.
My name is Richard. I was a Contouraholic.
NOW: '02 Mazda B3000 Dual Sport, Black
BEFORE: '99 Contour SE Sport
Duratec ATX Spruce Green
PIAA 510's, Foglight MOD, K&N Drop-in
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