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Otherwise, have to find a cheaper place to fix it. Thanks for any information.
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Depends on what mods you may have done to the car and what is causing the CEL.
"When I take action, I'm not going to fire a $2 million missile at a $10 empty tent and hit a camel in the butt. It's going to be decisive." - President George W. Bush
95 Contour SE ATX V6
"Cracked" Secondaries
DMD Installed
SVT Brakes
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No mods; don't the cause. Did go to a shop down the street and cost me $69 to scan the code. They did not read a code. The light has been on for a while, didn't notice any difference. Gas milage is normal. Thanks.
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Someone please explain what is under the ESP and what is not. Have to decide whether send it to the dealer or look for a cheaper alternative. Thanks a lot!
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FOR A CEL THAT STAYS ON REPLACE THE GAS CAP.
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Joined: Nov 2000
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Originally posted by bankinbob:
FOR A CEL THAT STAYS ON REPLACE THE GAS CAP. That is a plain stupid statement. Sorry to be harsh but I had to say it. A CEL can stay on for a 1000 reasons, not just because of a bloody gas-cap. For example, mine stayed on for a EGR pressure meter that went out. So changing the gas cap would be a waste of money. Don't make statements like thgat unless you know what you are talking about.  If you get a CEL, go to Murray's, Pep Boys or Autozone and rent a OBDII code reader. You may have to lay down $150 on you credit card but when you return it you get 100% of your money back. Doing this will ensure you get the code for the CEL and not guessing/pulling something out of you kaka hole! :rolleyes:
Regards, Anastazi Father of the Aussie Bar anastazi.sarigiannis@aam.com"Computer games don't affect kids. I mean if Pacman affected us as kids, we'd all run around in a darkened room, munching pills and listening to repetitive music." ----------------------------------- 2000 Silver Frost SVT #1126 of 2150 8" AFE/"Big-Mouth" Intake, Modified BAT Pipe, IAT Mod - A'PEXi S-AFC, Superchip, No Secondaries, Cobra/CSVT Hybrid MAF, Magnaflow True Duals, MYSTERY Mod, Autolite AWSF22FS's and FMS Wires, ES MM Inserts, Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors w/ Greenstuffs, APR DTM Spoiler, Escort Cossie Vents, NACA Duct, Mirko Splitter, Koni's & H&R Springs, 24mm "Aussie" Sway Bar, 18" Enkei RS-5, 225/40R18 KDW-2's. Pioneer DEH-P7000R, TS-6975's, TS-6855's, MTX BE104, MTX Blue Thunder PRO502 http://www.geocities.com/qikslvrsvt
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First thank all of you for all the responses.
I have a mechanics tried reading the code again and we got 'P1381'. Referring to a service bulletin (Article No. 00-3-7), he suggested I go to a Ford dealer and he said they should correct it for free, which I doubt.
By the way, I have the 'Extra' ESP (next only to 'Premium'). I am so disappointed to find that all three of the parts that were assumed to be malfunction (VCT Solenoid, VCT Sprocket, Sprocket Bolt) were not listed under the ESP. So here goes the old question:
Will Ford correct this for free? Any input is gratefully appreciated.
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1381 cam timing advance is excessive. definitely not related to the gas cap  we need to ask Big Jim about that, but the logic suggest that it should be covered by the powertain warranty. fwiw
--alex | 96 GL(sort of) V6 ATX | 98 SE V6 MTX Sport
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Originally posted by alex_96GL: 1381 cam timing advance is excessive. definitely not related to the gas cap
we need to ask Big Jim about that, but the logic suggest that it should be covered by the powertain warranty. fwiwThank you alex_96GL. I am new here, so who is Big Jim? So are you saying since it should be covered by the 'Powertrain', then it should definitely covered by the 'Extra', which I have? Ho, now comes the bigger question, can I still drive this car? Is it a life threatening problem? Opps, I have driven 3K or 4K miles with the CEL. Thanks again!
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This is one of the posts I digged out from old CEG archive regarding the 'P1381'. Posted by john gallus on February 10, 2000 at 19:02:14:
Can anyone tell me what engine code P1381 means? My "check engine" light has been on in my '98 Mercury Mystique. The dealer told me he had never seen the code before, but that it means my car may idle high or lose power, neither of wich has happened yet. The dealer told me the only way to fix it is to take the engine apart? The car is no longer under warrenty,but is still pretty new. I expected better when I bought it. Can anyone help me? What's your opinion? Thanks for any input!!!
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