|
|
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 743
Member
|
OP
Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 743 |
Ok i think my waterpump just died in my duratec...its squeeking/grinding right where the waterpump pulley is...what exactly is faulty in this water pump is it a bearing? is it normal that the rpms drop and the engine stalls? how much is this to get repaired?...has this happened to anyone else? can you explain what happened when it broke? lemme know thanks
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,701
Member
|
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,701 |
Most waterpumps fail because the impeller cracks and breaks apart. Stalling is not caused by the waterpump directly, but may be a symptom of an overheated engine. The waterpump failure is pretty common, especially after 60K miles. Dealer repair is around $300-450. Do it yourself for about $100. The squeaking/grinding, may be from the impeller getting lose on the shaft. If your waterpump is dead, the car will overheat and your blower will not blow hot air when the temp is turned to hot. Best not to drive an overheated engine.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 743
Member
|
|
OP
Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 743 |
thank you very much you just confirmed my theory..and thanks again for the prices
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 618
Moderator
|
|
Moderator
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 618 |
Originally posted by golof:
thank you very much you just confirmed my theory..and thanks again for the prices You can get a new water pump from Autozone with a METAL IMPELLER for about $70.
GOD BLESS AMERICA!!!
Ted
tdavidk76@hotmail.com
'95 SE • DOB-4/20/95 • every option • Champagne • Duratec • MTX.
Mods: Taylor wires • Bosch +4 • Eibach/Sachs Super Gas (half done) • rear BAT urethane bushings • SVT air box (thanx Dom!) • fogs w/parks • 885 50w fog bulbs • Ray's THF • rear dome • lighted moonroof switch(thanx again Dom!) • tranny cocktail • minor stereo mods.
Yet to install: Front Eibach/Sachs • Front BAT urethane swaybar bushings.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 70
Member
|
|
Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 70 |
What about the bolts used to fasten the pump to the engine block.. I heard they weren't re-usable...
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 618
Moderator
|
|
Moderator
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 618 |
Originally posted by Defiant:
What about the bolts used to fasten the pump to the engine block.. I heard they weren't re-usable... The pump from Autozone is only the front half of the pump w/the impeller. You do remove the bolts that mount the pump to block but you don't remove the whole pump from the car (unhook no hoses). This makes the swap very simple! I resused the original bolts no problem. The did not seem to be torque to yield.
GOD BLESS AMERICA!!!
Ted
tdavidk76@hotmail.com
'95 SE • DOB-4/20/95 • every option • Champagne • Duratec • MTX.
Mods: Taylor wires • Bosch +4 • Eibach/Sachs Super Gas (half done) • rear BAT urethane bushings • SVT air box (thanx Dom!) • fogs w/parks • 885 50w fog bulbs • Ray's THF • rear dome • lighted moonroof switch(thanx again Dom!) • tranny cocktail • minor stereo mods.
Yet to install: Front Eibach/Sachs • Front BAT urethane swaybar bushings.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 108
Member
|
|
Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 108 |
Originally posted by Defiant:
What about the bolts used to fasten the pump to the engine block.. I heard they weren't re-usable... According to my Ford manual (and Chilton, FWTW), they are torque to yield. You might get by re-using them. I should have the P/N of the bolts at home. E-mail if you want them. Retards, T. sheltot@netscape.net
'97 Contour SE 2.5 MTX
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 65
Member
|
|
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 65 |
I replaced the pump myself using a Haynes manual. I do remember that the torques on the bolts were so small (and the space was so limited) that I torqued them by hand. It's been a year since the repair and I've had no troubles.
--
Barry Wolf
1996 Contour SE MTX Midnight Red, Parchment leather
Brakes: Bendix OEM size discs, Carbon Metallic Pads, Parking Brake TSB kit
Engine: New IAC valve, new EGR valve, new cat, new water pump, moose fix kit, K&N drop in filter
Tranny: Redline ATF + Ford Friction modifier
Interior: Pioneer CD receiver, Pioneer speakers, Ford RS shift knob, Ford vinyl floor mats (great purchase!)
Handling: E1 SVT Rims, Yoko AVS-I 205/55ZR16 (like butter) meats
Other: High beam bulbs in low beam position, new trunk vent
Other problems: leaky PS pump - fixed with 2 oz stop leak, 1 quart oil use per 2K miles
Mileage: 62K (August 2002)
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 275
Member
|
|
Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 275 |
What's the part # on that metal impeller waterpump from autozone?
Thanks.
95GL25
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 618
Moderator
|
|
Moderator
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 618 |
Originally posted by gheller-iii:
What's the part # on that metal impeller waterpump from autozone?
Thanks. Sorry, I don't have the part # handy (don't know if I can even find it). If you call Autozone, it should be just under $70, and it is a new part. Not rebuilt. I am pretty sure it is the only H2O pump they have for the Contour.
GOD BLESS AMERICA!!!
Ted
tdavidk76@hotmail.com
'95 SE • DOB-4/20/95 • every option • Champagne • Duratec • MTX.
Mods: Taylor wires • Bosch +4 • Eibach/Sachs Super Gas (half done) • rear BAT urethane bushings • SVT air box (thanx Dom!) • fogs w/parks • 885 50w fog bulbs • Ray's THF • rear dome • lighted moonroof switch(thanx again Dom!) • tranny cocktail • minor stereo mods.
Yet to install: Front Eibach/Sachs • Front BAT urethane swaybar bushings.
|
|
|
|
|
