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Joined: May 2000
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Most tire stores should have some kind of "Tire Guide" book that will list torque specs and inflations for individual vehicles. The last time I looked it up, that was what I found. You may want to look it up again. smile


Cindy
1998 Black SVT #1129
DOB: 5/20/97
1980 Mazda RX-7
1988 Mazda RX-7 Convertible (for sale!)
1986 Mazda RX-7
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I stand corrected!!

Correct torque specs:
'97, early '98 is 64
'98 is 85
and '99 is 94ft/lbs

wink


Cindy
1998 Black SVT #1129
DOB: 5/20/97
1980 Mazda RX-7
1988 Mazda RX-7 Convertible (for sale!)
1986 Mazda RX-7
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I think this whole overtorquing the lug nuts panic is over blown. I've had both the front and rear hubs and rotors off. The rotors mate up perfectly flat to the sizeable flange plate on the hub. If they are over tightend by 10-15% there's nothing to bend or warp as long as all the nuts are equally tight and tightened in a cross pattern. Sure there are some crappy rotors out there but an extra 5 lbs of torque isn't going to distort the rotor and flange plate enough to cause damage.


Scott
95 SE-2.5L ATX (120K+ miles & many mods)
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Quote:
Originally posted by tw0wheelin:
I think this whole overtorquing the lug nuts panic is over blown. I've had both the front and rear hubs and rotors off. The rotors mate up perfectly flat to the sizeable flange plate on the hub. If they are over tightend by 10-15% there's nothing to bend or warp as long as all the nuts are equally tight and tightened in a cross pattern. Sure there are some crappy rotors out there but an extra 5 lbs of torque isn't going to distort the rotor and flange plate enough to cause damage.


Correct, but we're talking about massive deviations like when tire monkeys use air hammers to tighten lugs. Those things are capable of 300 ft-lbs and the difference between lugs could be enough to warp your rotors in the long run. Worked it a garage before, I've seen it lots of times. Some of the more unscrupulous garages will tighten them with air hammers intentionally, knowing you might come back for a brake job... eek


-Louis
1998 Black E0 #3826, lightly modded
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Well, I decided that I am going to replace my front rotors and see what happens. I have about 50K on them now, and I did have them cut at about 38. I think that I will try going with some aftermarket rotors up front as I used aftermarket in the rear from Pep Boys. The way I see it, if I am going to dump money into my brakes (beoynd better pads), it will be to do a 300mm rotor and bigger calipers. (and that aint-a happening anytime soon!)

Thanks,
Andrew


Andrew
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I work at a car garage on my summers and holidays off from college. My hometown is one of those really small backwoods types... I mean, blink on the interstate and you miss it smile Point is, our garage has these cool things that are called Torx sticks (sp? Maybe they are spelled stix for the brand name, I don't remember) but anyways, these beauties attach to an air gun... they have different shaft thicknesses connecting the lug wrench and lug socket together. No matter how high you crank the air pressure, you can hammer on the gun all day and not exceed torque specs for whichever wheels you are working on because the shafts act like a torsion bar after a certain torque has been reached. I did this to my car while on the lift and hammered the air gun for a good minute on each nut and verified with an actual torque wrench. It torqued within one foot pound of the reading on the stick. I was amazed, but I don't see many tire shops having them. I wonder why not.....

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Quote:
Originally posted by cindy:
I stand corrected!!

Correct torque specs:
'97, early '98 is 64
'98 is 85
and '99 is 94ft/lbs

wink


Why the difference year to year?

Chris
99 SE V6 5sp

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I was wondering what the source of the torque cindy used is. I searched my owners manuals last night to no avail.


Tropic Green '00 SVT
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