Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Maintenance 2.5L running 5W-20.

I guess if your are serious enough about the subject to do oil analysis, you've seen www.BobIsTheOilGuy.com which is a good info resource.

According to Mobil when they addressed the issue, Mobil 1 needs far less viscosity improvers than conventional oil and that it is basicly impossible to "shear down" Mobil 1 during the use it gets in an engine. So I figure why not take advantage of the technology since I'm spending extra for synthetic in the first place and get the wider spread.
If I went back to conventional I think I would use 10-40. I had been using 5-30 in my new 2000 SE Sport until I started seeing the posts here about higher than expected engine failures and reading up on this stuff again in the past year.
My previous experience with 20-50 oil over the last 30 years (yikes) indicates the heavier stuff definately helps engines to stay tighter and healthier - I'm talking way over 100k miles which is pretty much a moot point these days when most guys keep cars for only a few years.

Cheers,

For those that have asked about buying 0-40.

The Mobil1 web site has previously said that 0-40 is only available at BMW, and MB dealers.( There's a clue about who thinks this is the oil to use in high output motors) My local auto parts supplier went out of his way to obtain 0-40 from his warehouse for me. That was last year. He now stocks it on the shelf because the demand is there. You might ask your local guy. In addition, Auto Zone stores in the NY metro area have begun stocking 0-40 just this past month.
If you want to "save a buck" you might email Wal Mart from their site contact point and request that they begin stocking 0-40 in 5 quart jugs. That would bring the price down to $3.58 per quart. They were pretty responsive in stocking Mobil 1, 0-30 shortly after Mobil brought that out.

Another choice you have, right at Wal-Mart. Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W40
Basically made for OTR Trucks, but it does have the appropriate
ratings for gasoline engines as well.

Sold in 1 gallon jugs for about $12.88, IIRC.

TB

I see the error here. I meant to say the first number, not 'the last'(thinking typo). Both have the 5W rating. But i think the rest of the mechanic world would agree that almost all engine wear occurs during the first five minutes of start up. With that in mind, it depends on which end of the spectrum do you want to "thin out". I don't live in a cold enough environment to constitute the use of a 0W oil. I use the recommended oil filter for the 2.5 from Fram, don't quote me on it but off the top of my head i think its the PH2.

Duratecs are designed to run a lighter oil. I wouldn't recommend using any 50 in one.

the best 'Cheap' filter to use is the OEM Motorcraft. the PureOne filters are OK as are AC Delco (if you can find the right size)

I have used the Mobil1 filter before but am not sure it is worth the extra $$$ for street driving.

I won't use a Fram filter for anything.

Originally posted by ajdulina:

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I use the recommended oil filter for the 2.5 from Fram, don't quote me on it but off the top of my head i think its the PH2.

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...and that says it all folks...

If you are worried about engine damage at start up I'd suggest using an oil filter that has an anti-drainback valve. Instead of spending several precious seconds waiting for the oil filter to refill and then more waiting for the timing chain tensioners to tighten and then even more waiting for oil to finally reach the heads!!!

If you are worried about engine damage any other time I would use a filter that can actually filter out contaminents and also not burst under heavy load (which our oil pumps can easily manage)

FRAM is utter garbage! Great marketing department, but worthless in every other one.

Use the stock Motorcraft (actually a Pure One cartridge in a Premium case) or a K&N (only filter rated above the stock oil pumps flow rating)
Both use an excellent drainback valve design and have great filtering ability.

I've used Fram for awhile now in a couple of different engines and never had a single problem, except for getting stuck on, but what filter doesn't. I strongly suggest you re-evaluate the 'quality' of Motorcraft parts. They have given me nothing but a hassle(cheap plug wires and poor filtering) and i refuse to buy them unless i'm not given the alternative. As for the 'anitdrain', i don't want to add any flow restrictions with a gimmick just like octane booster gives you more power.

Has anyone else had a problem with oil filters bursting?

Originally posted by ajdulina:

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As for the 'anitdrain', i don't want to add any flow restrictions with a gimmick just like octane booster gives you more power.

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Not a gimmick - an important part of an oil filter. I suggest you research what an oil filter does and how it operates and the importance of an anti-drainback valve, especially before posting statements like the above or following:

Originally posted by ajdulina:

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I know what i'm talkin about.
I would suggest you real (read?) aliitle too.

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What's that famous quote? "It is better to say nothing and be thought a fool than open one's mouth and remove all doubt."