Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Aesthetics Amazing headlight modification.

Originally posted by Journie:

---

Wow your a genuis!

---

Well now, thank you!

...Ed

Ok I just went out and measured the voltage.
With the engine off voltage at the battery terminals is 12.82 volts.With the engine running its 13.9 volts at the battery at 800+- RPMS.At the upgraded bulb socket its 13.9 volts also at the stock socket its 13.1.At 3K RPM upgraded socket measures 14.1 volts and stock socket is 13.6 volts.Not much but enough to make a big difference.
Someone do the math and convert these to percentages.
So Ed was right the voltage at the battery when the car is running is approx 14 volts,but he stock wiring only sends 13 volts to the lamps.Oh and I have some of those high wattage blue coated bulbs in there also.I know what your going to say,but hey they do look better than stock.I got them off of E-Bay,the seller seems to sell alot of them and I email some of his costumers and they all (6) recommended them over most of the other "blue" bulbs they had used in the past.

I have wired multiple vehicles like this. Both Ramchargers are re-wired (a much needed improvement I might add). I rewired my old Pontiac as well. Also an improvement.

When I rewired the Contour like this, I saw no improvement because Ford pretty much did it for us. The relays are in the power block that is sitting directly next to the battery.

BTW, before someone says I used the wrong parts. A/C relays were for the switching, circut breakers protected everything. Battery to breakers was 8ga wire, 8 from the breaker to the relays, 10ga from the relays to the lamps. I saw no improvement on the Contour. All the wiring was AMP power wire picked up from the stereo store.

Using the different bulbs when the mod was done doesn't help much. Like adding race slicks and a swaybar and saying how much better the swaybar made the car handle.

Just my 2¢

Edit: Here are a few links talking about bulb colors and rewiring.
Click Me, Me and Me!

Originally posted by louisw:

---

Sounds like a good idea. Useful if you ever think about running HIDs also. I've seen a wiring harness that eliminates the relay and fuses, and uses a FET instead. I'm not familiar with this component, anyone care to indulge in some theory?

Edit: like this: http://www.autolamps-online.com/gasdischarge/Philips%20FETharness.htm

---

It's a solid state component that basicly does the job of the relay & fuse. "Fuse" resets after 6 seconds.HID runs fine through the stock wiring-High current draw is only when first switching on+the current draw of the HID ballast is enough to switch off the bulb failure check light(s)

Originally posted by Journie:

---

Ok I just went out and measured the voltage.
With the engine off voltage at the battery terminals is 12.82 volts.With the engine running its 13.9 volts at the battery at 800+- RPMS.At the upgraded bulb socket its 13.9 volts also at the stock socket its 13.1.At 3K RPM upgraded socket measures 14.1 volts and stock socket is 13.6 volts.Not much but enough to make a big difference.
Someone do the math and convert these to percentages.
So Ed was right the voltage at the battery when the car is running is approx 14 volts,but he stock wiring only sends 13 volts to the lamps.Oh and I have some of those high wattage blue coated bulbs in there also.I know what your going to say,but hey they do look better than stock.I got them off of E-Bay,the seller seems to sell alot of them and I email some of his costumers and they all (6) recommended them over most of the other "blue" bulbs they had used in the past.

---

I wish I had time to measure the voltage coming off my battery...

I'm going to start a petition to have the day lengthened by 3 or 4 hours.

It sounds like you could have other problems if your to the point where you needs to re-wire your headlights because they are too dim. Not to mention being pulled over by the cops because they think your highbeaming them. Any system that drops below the 13.5 operating voltage could have problem. i.e. volts.regulator, alterntor, or something is drawing too many amps.

Originally posted by MonkeyBiz:

---

Originally posted by Journie:

---

Ok I just went out and measured the voltage.
With the engine off voltage at the battery terminals is 12.82 volts.With the engine running its 13.9 volts at the battery at 800+- RPMS.At the upgraded bulb socket its 13.9 volts also at the stock socket its 13.1.At 3K RPM upgraded socket measures 14.1 volts and stock socket is 13.6 volts.Not much but enough to make a big difference.
Someone do the math and convert these to percentages.
So Ed was right the voltage at the battery when the car is running is approx 14 volts,but he stock wiring only sends 13 volts to the lamps.Oh and I have some of those high wattage blue coated bulbs in there also.I know what your going to say,but hey they do look better than stock.I got them off of E-Bay,the seller seems to sell alot of them and I email some of his costumers and they all (6) recommended them over most of the other "blue" bulbs they had used in the past.

---

I wish I had time to measure the voltage coming off my battery...

I'm going to start a petition to have the day lengthened by 3 or 4 hours.

---

Well the kids are asleep as is the wife and it was 1:35 in the morning when I did it.Hey just sleep less.

I didnt "needs" to rewire them,it is what is called an upgrade.The voltage was at idle,I think youll notice your car does the same.Ever notice your headlights brighten when you rev the engine from idle?Same deal.No problems with people thinking they are on high beam either,this is called "aiming your headlights",its what keeps the light on the road and not into the passenger compartment of the vehicle comming towards you or in front of you.Have you ever seen a true H.I.D system,they are way brighter than any hologen "zenon" bulbs will ever be,if cops dont pull them over then I will forever be alright.
Any more questions?

HID is alot brighter! You have to aim your headlights down to avoid glare!can't see this upgrade making that much difference so would guess you will be fine.

FET: Field Effect Transistor