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I'm "going in" tommorrow, removing and "playing with" intake manifolds. I have some Motorcraft double plats and FMS wires to throw on as well. slightly embarrased to admit that I never changed plugs (flame suit on) ...any tips stuff I need to know guys?? Optimal gap is 0.054inches right? I did change a clutch many moons ago on a Triumph Spitfire..if that helps redeem me  Thanks
1999 Amazon Green SVT Contour (#554/2760)
"People demand freedom of speech as a compensation for the freedom of thought which they seldom use."
-Soren Kierkegaard (as posted by Jato)
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Personally I would gap them at .050
Plugs & wires are straight forward. IIRC there's even a how-to. Shouldn't take more than 60 minutes. Removing the coil pack for more room is a nice plus, but not necessary. I've done it both ways myself.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Here are my tips at changing plugs.
First, if they are not marked already, mark the wires. The coil pack is marked but make sure you know where the wires go on in the head.
Second, remove the coil pack.
Two, use a very long extention and a sparkplug socket to remove the spark plug. I don't recommend using two small extentions and putting them together. Better to have one long one to begin with.
Three, some people don't recommend it but I personally recommend using a small amount of anti-seize on the plugs. Just my opinion. You have aluminum heads, careful not to cross threat the plugs.
Four, when you reinstall the plugs, use a regular socket, not the sparkplug wrench with the rubber washer, otherwise you will not be able to retrieve either the socket or the rubber washer.
Five, if I did not make this clear, do not cross wires upon reinstalling. Running the car on dead cylinders will cook your pre cats. Do it right the first time.
As far as gapping the plugs, I don't think I gapped mine. I think they came pre gapped. I don't think you are supposed to do that.
stock 1998 silver frost SVT E0 #1545 out of 6535
* K&N drop-in air filter
* DMD
* Koni's w/ stock springs
* Autolite double platinum
* Tranny cocktail
* Mobil 1 Snyth Oil @ 60K miles
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Like Demon said, it's pretty straight forward. holycowSVTpaul gave a good little write up, too. There is a how-to as well. Couple more things: make sure the engine is cool - aluminum heads are easier to cross thread when hot. Also, if you're taking off your UIM, you'll definately have a whole lotta room to change the spark plugs w/ it off.
Derek
Scion xB 5-spd
Previous: 2000 Silver Frost SVT
Please share the road with cyclists.
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Not necessary to remove the intake manifold. It's tight but not too bad to get at the rear plugs once the coil pack comes off. You just have to do a little fishing. Not hard.
stock 1998 silver frost SVT E0 #1545 out of 6535
* K&N drop-in air filter
* DMD
* Koni's w/ stock springs
* Autolite double platinum
* Tranny cocktail
* Mobil 1 Snyth Oil @ 60K miles
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yeah what he said, I too remove my coil pack, and its really a cake job. Originally posted by holycowSVTpaul:
Not necessary to remove the intake manifold. It's tight but not too bad to get at the rear plugs once the coil pack comes off. You just have to do a little fishing. Not hard.
Ryan
Trollin!
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Originally posted by holycowSVTpaul:
Not necessary to remove the intake manifold.
Very true, but he is doing LIM work at the same time. I must say that is a very good tip about using the standard deepwell vs a sparkplug socket. I personally just made my own tool for doing center plugs on DOHC engines. I welded an extension to the socket. It never comes off for some reason... 
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by holycowSVTpaul:
Not necessary to remove the intake manifold.
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Very true, but he is doing LIM work at the same time.
Exactly. I never said he needed to take it off, but since it's off anyway...
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
I personally just made my own tool for doing center plugs on DOHC engines. I welded an extension to the socket. It never comes off for some reason...
That's a darn good idea. I HATE it when the dang extension slips of the spark plug socket. Wish I had a welder. 
Derek
Scion xB 5-spd
Previous: 2000 Silver Frost SVT
Please share the road with cyclists.
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Originally posted by holycowSVTpaul:
Four, when you reinstall the plugs, use a regular socket, not the sparkplug wrench with the rubber washer, otherwise you will not be able to retrieve either the socket or the rubber washer.
...
As far as gapping the plugs, I don't think I gapped mine. I think they came pre gapped. I don't think you are supposed to do that.
I keep a set of long needle nose pliers handy when doing plugs to retrieve the spark plug socket. I'm getting better - last time I only needed to use it once. Or maybe the washer is just getting squashed in. And I just bought a set of Autolite Platinum Pros, with this disclaimer right on the box: IMPORTANTCheck Autolite spark plug catalog for proper application and gap setting. Set gap before installing.
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It is critical to properly gap the spark plugs. You cannot depend on them being correct out of the box. Even if they are all gapped the same, it may not be the correct gap for your engine.
The gap spec is on the emissions decal. For most street driven cars that are stock or mildly modified, I prefer to gap the plugs on the wide side of spec. For example, if the spec is .052" - .056", I recommend setting them at .056".
To install the plugs on our car, I use a spark plug socket with the rubber retainer. The cheaper Craftsman type doesn't work as well as the Snap-on or Mac type. The Craftsman holds the plug too tightly and often leaves the rubber retainer behind on the plug or causes the socket to stay on the plug as the extension is pulled up.
On many engines, a very easy way to start the plugs is with a length of vacuum hose. The hose needs to be streight. not curved. The inner diameter should fit tightly on the plug wire tip of the plug.
I also prefer to use anti-sieze on the threads of the plug on engines with aluminum heads. Don't overdue it though.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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