Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Forced Induction my e-RAM may be a dud

I knew not to expect too much from an e-RAM, but I was hoping I'd at least get a bit of a noticeable kick out of it. But I'm damned if I can even tell the difference with any certainty when it activates.

One other person who complained about the e-RAM found that his was drawing only 1/3 of the advertised electric current. I want to measure the power draw on mine, because I suspect it may be a good deal less than the advertised 50 amps / 700 watts. (50 amps wouldn't actually make 700 watts unless the alternator were keeping up a solid 14 volts at the battery terminals during operation... which sounds unlikely to me... but I'll settle for 600.)

If the thing does actually put 700 watts of work into the air stream, that should be just about enough to produce 1 PSI at a flow rate of 200 CFM, which is about the maximum amount the Zetec can draw. That's like 7 pounds of total thrust. They advertise around 3 pounds at a rate of 750 CFM when the output is unobstructed; that's around the same ballpark of 700 watts. But when I move my hand up against the output while it's running, I don't think I feel even 3 pounds at any point, let alone 6 or more.

It occurs to me that I could measure the pressure by putting a long clear tube onto the valve cover hose attachment, and putting water in a U bend. But I don't have a long clear plastic tube. And anyway, first I want to somehow measure the amount of electric power it's drawing. If it's only like 300 watts or less, that in itself would be grounds for using their guarantee.

So you actually tried it. With the problems did you notice any gains? Good luck with it.

Though I'm disappointed you tried it, there is no going back now.

700W / 13.8 = 50.725 amps

My audio system for example will only use:
330W / 13.8 = 23.913 amps so I can run 8 gauge cable.

I'm assuming the eRam hooks up directly to the battery. What gauge power cable are you running for it? I think 10 gauge would do, but you could just do 8 gauge to be safe.

I know a guy that has one on his 96 Accord.
I can't feel it kick in either.
But when it does, he gets anywhere from a 3-7HP boost (depending on rpm's).

I think you shoulgive up on it and sell me the Eram for $100...

Those dyno numbers seem the opposite of what physics would dictate.

Lower engine rpm = less air pulled in naturally by the engine and therefore more "boost" produced by the fixed rpm/flow E-RAM.

At high rpm's the boost would drop to basically nothing as the engine caight up to the E-RAM's flow ability and power levels would be close to normal.

I thought that the e-ram only kicked in at WOT. Mostly because you can't vary the speed. Do you have it before of after the MAF?

It sounds like your wire may be too small. 8 guage wire would be the minimum, anything less and you will drop too much voltage. Measure the voltage at your battery and at the e-ram's terminals. If you are dropping more than 1 volt, your wire is too small.

BTW, I've always wondered if a 1 Farad cap would help out an e-rams "spool-up" time. Hmmmm....

HTH,
BP