Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Zetec Maintenance Made the switch to Mobil 1

Switched the oil over to Mobil 1...

Big difference. The engine winds up smoother, colds starts are better, operating temperatures are down a little bit, and the transmission seems to be working better...

I know some of this is the placebo effect but I really do encourage this for anyone sitting on the fence about it.

Yeah it is more expensive but I think well worth it...

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Atlanta, GA
1999 Silver Frost 2.0 SE Zetec
K&N Filtercharger
Mintex Street Pads
BAT Rotors
Sony ES Mobile Xplod
Pioneer 3-way 6X8's all around
BAT Bright Whites

I made the switch a few months back, it does seem to rev up smoother than it did before, plus, with the protection it offers, you can rev it alot!

Mark


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Black 98 Mystique GS Spree Ztec ATX (arg) Dropped w/ H&R's, KKM intake, Accel Thundersport 300+ plug wires, Autolite Platnium Pro plugs, Alpine CD, Fog to DRL mod, Accel ignition coil, Mobil 1 Oil (good stuff!) Dunlop SP Sport 5000 tires....more?
pics here:
http://hometown.aol.com/crazyshovl/projectmercury.html

Yes, I just pu tin Mobil 1 for the SECOND time and love it. In Texas, heat in the Zetec is always a concern, where I will get up to the A in NORMAL in a matter of five or six minutes. Since changing to M1, it does run SIGNIFICANTLY smoother, and just a tad cooler.

I had a friend put it in her Probe, and the first thing she said when she started it is "Wow, my car doesn't shake like it did!"

My best friend put it in his '90 Isuzu Impulse on Saturday, and he says it runs a lot better.

I reccommend this stuff to anyone who uses oil.

Randy

by they way,

does anybody have anything good/bad to say about Mobil 1 synthetic transmission fluid?

Anyone with any experience? I am about to swap out a few quarts, I think, and am interested in someone's opinion of how it affects the AUTOMATIC transmissions in our ZETECS.

Thanks.

Randy

I have Mobil 1 ATX fluid in mine. It lasts significantly longer as far as color is concerned. I didn't notice any "real" difference but I know for a fact that will all the racing I've done, it's drastically increased the life of the tranny.

John

Mobil 1 is synthetic right? When you switch over...should you have the engine flushed out, or just keep adding/removing until it's all mobil 1 in there?? I want to have it done as my car get's up there in years, and miles. I'd just like to know how to go about it.

I don't know why people are worried about reaching the "A" on the temp gauge in their zetec! That's good! Mine is always on the "|" of the L in Normal. Maybe if you're going real fast on the highway on a cold day or near some water it will go down to the A, but that's the way it's been since the day it's born...never a problem.

ill stick to my havoline 5w-30. doesn't use more than a half quart in 3000 to 3500 mile intervals(car has 79K on it). mobil 1 is good, but i don't see the justification in spending $5 a quart on it to put in such an inexpensive car and engine. havoline will do just as good a job as mobil 1 if you change it regularly (3000 mile intervals) just my opinion. now racing it or overrevving may be a different situation. it may stand up better than the fossil derived stuff then. but under 'normal' driving, its not any better imho.

"better"

Its proven "better" than dino oil but that's not the point.

It's a matter of if you think it is worth it.

No doubt it is "better" by some people will not think its worth it.

I can tell you this. It kept my old Suzuki motorcycle on the road way longer than it should have...

I do my own oil changes so the $30 bucks usually shelled out at Jiffy Lube or whatever is more than the filter and synthetic oil at Autozone or Pep Boys. Besides, have you ever really looked at the filter or bulk oil they use? Pretty crappy stuff for $30 bucks!

Don't switch to fully sysnthetic after your car has had normal petro oil for many miles, because there ius a worry that the sysnthetic does such a good job cleaning your engine that it causes oil leaks on older/more milleage cars! There is a oil bible website and even a lad on here that can give you this info. off the top of his head! If I buy a newer car someday, I will use Mobil, only if miles are low enough to switch!

What do you consider a high mileage car?

If the detergents in the oil are causing leaks then that means all the old oil has simply kept bad gaskets and seals from leaking.

Essentially that means you already have bad seals and gaskets which should be replaced anyway and become apparent because of the switch.

If you stay with dino oil then you would be masking the problem.

I'm guessing on this one. Does Terry have an opinion on this?

Actually, there is a guy on this forum who insisted that I should stay with my dino oil because of the fact that my 98 has 110,000kms +. Better yet search for synthic oil and look at old posts! Does anybody have the oil bible guide internet site. Please and thanks!

Synthetic Tranny Fluid and Oil. Well, I have used the Amsoil Synthetic tranny fluid for years in Zetec Mystique. No problem and in cold Weather a bonus.
Oil after engine run on dino for 50,000 75,000. Well, I have switched on three cars and on two swithched from new. Experience says that with new cars oil seepage will occur around 90,000 miles and if switched from dino seepage will occur around 1 year from switch. Yes, tightning the bolts usually works, not always. I just switched a 97 Isuzu with 60,000 engine slightly dirty, no sludge, just thick film. Synthetic will clean this up over time and I do expect a seepage to occur, well, actually seeping when we purchased it so may not get worse. Yes, synthetics seep oil at some point but so does dino. No question the start up and protection is worth it. I go 1 year on Zetec filter at 6 months (oil analysis comes back great) but only put 7,000-12,000 miles on in a year. Engine looks like the day it was new so clean inside!

FOLKS, get with the times. And, more easily, READ THE MOBIL 1 PACKAGE. It specifically says that it IS okay to put in old engines, regardless of miles.

Better is better, and if you are planning on driving a car for at least 150,000 miles as I am, then it becomes WORTH spending the extra money. American society says that we must get a new car every two years; I say bullcrap. My friend's Impulse has 205,000 miles on it and it still kicks ass.

It doesn't matter how 'cheap' the car and engine are, that's an insult. I didn't take it personally, but you should keep an offensive opinion to yourself, unless it is helpful and/or based on factual evidence that since Contours are cheap cars, we should abuse them. Hey folks, I have college to pay for, I will gladly keep my kick ass piece of sh!t Contour for the rest of the time I go to college, while you buy new car after new car.

Sorry you think it's cheap, fifteen grand aint cheap for a college student. Let's be practical.

Randy

I guess when I posted 6 months ago and was told not to switch, they were just yanking my chain!!!!!!! They provided info. and a website stating that old heavy mileage cars (beware) Not older cars in general! EXAMPLE: 98 MERC WITH 120 000KMS OR 98 MERC WITH 30 000 KMS. 4 TIMES THE MILEAGE!!!! I have used normal dino oil in my cars and put 50-60000km per year! (LOVE DRIVING). NO problems yet!!!! I have tried a litre of synthtic in my car on one occasion, just to see if simply adding 1 litre of synthetic and the remainder of the 4,25 litres in normal oil and I did notice a slight drop in engine tempt! But since I get 250 000 - 300 000kms on all my cars, then I will not switch. I guess I like buying new and it turns my CRANK!!!! For those of you who will be keeping your tours until your kids / kids graduate, then synthetic might be the way to go.

P.S. Who are those lads who posted a response to my post telling me not to use synthetic on a older car that was used to normal dino oil? I believe the website was a "Oil bible site" Who is our expert on oil anyways? Please post with info!