Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Zetec Maintenance lifter noise

When I start my car in the morning, I have what I am sure to be a lifter that is making a loud tapping sound and getting louder since I bought the car. Is this a common problem, and how do I go about fixing it? It goes away almost completely once it warms up, so it would be gone once I got it to the dealership.

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98.5 Contour
Zetec w/ auto (doh!!)
modified stock airbox
res and muffler removed
glasspack added
Knauberized
Pioneer CD
Alpine speakers in all doors
2 pioneer 10" subs
mesh grille
side markers

Yes,sounds like a lifter leaking oil overnight.Should have the lifters & cams checked out,the cam lobes may be scuffed,could be a set of lifters or lifters and cam(s).You can do it yourself,to establish which one is remove the cam cover and check the lifter to cam clearences with a feeler gage to find the 'slack' one,have to turn the engine over by hand(plugs out & socket on crank pulley bolt)the valves must be in the closed position with the followers/lifters in line with the base circle of the cam to check the clearence.

Thanks, I'll give it a try. Mabye a good reason to find a better cam!!

Allot of times the timing belt will hit against the timing belt cover and make the same kind of noise. The timing belt does not have to be very loose to make the noise.

A-Ha! I'm not going crazy, and that is indeed the timing belt knocking against that upper cover on cold starts. Seems to go away after the car warms up a little bit. Been making that noise for quite a long time now. At least since 50k miles, now 75k miles. Original belt.

I Changed my 1996 Ford Contour's timing belt because of the timing belt noise. The timing belt would hit against the upper cover when the engine was warming up. I have not had the noise since I replaced the timing belt. Changing the timing belt was easy to do and took 3 hours.

There is / was a modded cam belt cover or a rework to the cover to cut away material to stop the belt 'slap' against it,posted about 2 months ago...anyone rembember it?

Cam belt.... never thought about it. How much does a new one go for??

I remember reading a post about someone putting spacers to keep the timing belt from hitting against the timing belt cover.

Since the noise usually starts at 50,000 or 60,000 miles, I figured that it must be time to change the timing belt. I have heard that the zetec 2-liter engine is an interference type of engine. I did not want to risk having the timing belt brake or slip and damage the engine.

i have written documentation from ford saying that the belt slap noice is normal when the engine is cold. my car has been doing it since i bought it at 18,000 miles.

i just had my timing belt changed last month and the new belt also makes the slapping noise although it goes away faster now than it did before (tighter/newer belt). i would be VERY interested in a new timing belt/gear cover to stop the noise completely or instructions on how to properly space the cover without worrying about getting too much dirt/water inside that compartment.

if you find the thread, please post a link to it. i'll search around too. thanks!!!

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1995 GL Zetec MTX...Light Blue
Born: July 1995
Purchased: November 1997
KKM Intake
Superchip
AR 16x7.5 w/ Dunlop W-10 (205.50.16)
Viper 500+ Alarm
Sounds by: Pioneer CD/Polk dB/MTX Subs/Alpine Amp
Richbrook Shift Knob
"Recontented" Factory Instrument Cluster w/Tach
"Recontented" Foggies


Soon to be added:
FocusSport Wires (Blue)
Accel EDIS ignition
Autolite Platinum Pro's

A Gates HSN timing belt sells for $15 to $30. I think Gates timing belts are the highest quality belts available.

Some people would replace the water pump also. I did not replace the water pump because it can be changed easily. I did replace the alternator belt.

Most performance /sports cars with the Zetec ditch the cam belt covers !Look at some rally/track cars.It hurts nothing by doing it unless you spend 90 driving off road !(mind you fingers with the hood up and motor running ....ouch!!)

http://contour.org/forums/Forum3/HTML/001239.html

this is the closest i could find.

and don't be fooled! the water pump is NOT easy to replace.

maybe i can make a little lifter for the cover. if i can, would others be interested in it? i'm not trying to make money off it, just trying to find a remedy for the problem!

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1995 GL Zetec MTX...Light Blue
Born: July 1995
Purchased: November 1997
KKM Intake
Superchip
AR 16x7.5 w/ Dunlop W-10 (205.50.16)
Viper 500+ Alarm
Sounds by: Pioneer CD/Polk dB/MTX Subs/Alpine Amp
Richbrook Shift Knob
"Recontented" Factory Instrument Cluster w/Tach
"Recontented" Foggies


Soon to be added:
FocusSport Wires (Blue)
Accel EDIS ignition
Autolite Platinum Pro's

[This message has been edited by baco99 (edited December 01, 2000).]

Although I would not recomend it, you can get some small washers at the hardware store to use as spacers. It should cost about 50 cents for spacer washers. Be carefull tightening the timing cover nuts. The timing cover is made of plastic that breaks easy.

I would never remove my timing belt cover because the timing belt cover keeps dust and dirt out. If your car only lasts 100,000 miles removing the timing belt cover will not matter but if it lasts 200,000 miles the dust and dirt will cause problems.

Removing the cover does no harm.It makes the belt visable for wear and cam/crank oil leaks ,which do more damage to the belt than 'dust'.TAH

Then what is the purpose of the timing belt cover. I know it is not to protect the fingers since the alternator belt is just a dangerous and does not have a cover.

I would have to disagree. It seems to me that dust causes friction and wear (kind of like sand paper & grit).

Legal/safety issues,let the belt dust blow away from the motor,not be confined to the belt /pulley areas(keeps the belt cooler too)

What are the legal and safety issues? If they require a cover for the timing belt because of safety issues why wouldn't they do the same for the alternator belt?

A person that I know got his finger cut off by the alternator belt. He was setting the timing. He had someone hit the key to get the timing mark on the harmonic balancer so that he could see the mark. He had his finger on the belt and the pulley and belt cut his finger off.

It doesn't bother him too much. He still repairs cars.

Actually my mini-van has a small cover for the surpenteen belt where the fingers could easly get caught in it. I could understand the saftey precautions.

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1998.5 Tan contour,zetec,ATX
KKM
Focus Sports wires
LUKs(they suck)metal white 9006
Steel mesh grill(looking for SVT bumper)
Dexcool
Mobile 1
15" green neon under dash and seats
Pre-98 console
Code Alarm W/ remote start and keyless entry
Still need to decide on UDP.

There are allots of safety hazards involved with repairing cars. If a mechanic's long hair or loose clothing get caught in the serpentine belt the outcome could be worse than loosing a finger.

The most apparent safety hazard is working underneath the car. I always use large solid wood blocks to support the vehicle. Before I crawl underneath I shake the vehicle as hard as I can to make sure that it will not fall.

I read several times every year where someone working on his or her car gets crushed by the falling vehicle. The headline always reads "Freak Accident". I would label it "Careless Accident" because it is easily avoidable.

Another Safety Hazard is Fix a Flat. It is very explosive. When the technician goes to break the tire down for repair all it takes is one small spark to cause a explosion. There have been allot of technicians crippled and killed because they did not know fix a flat is dangerous.

well...i'm still gonna look into raising that cover just a touch. i can't stand that noise. and for what it is worth, those timing belt covers are not air tight by any means. they are just pieced together with gaps in betweent he pieces. i think dust and water could get in through any of those cracks if it wanted to. and it has. when i was poking around in there i noticed that it was somewhat dirty. there must be a way to make some kind of lifter in the shape of the "footprint" of that cover so thatit will close it off in the same way.

but before i do that, i'm gonna drive without that cover for a couple days to be sure that that is my only problem.

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1995 GL Zetec MTX...Light Blue
Born: July 1995
Purchased: November 1997
KKM Intake
Superchip
AR 16x7.5 w/ Dunlop W-10 (205.50.16)
Viper 500+ Alarm
Sounds by: Pioneer CD/Polk dB/MTX Subs/Alpine Amp
Richbrook Shift Knob
"Recontented" Factory Instrument Cluster w/Tach
"Recontented" Foggies


Soon to be added:
FocusSport Wires (Blue)
Accel EDIS ignition
Autolite Platinum Pro's

Let us know if removing the timing belt cover helps.

In my earlier post I mentioned that the water pump is easy to replace. I have been repairing cars for over 2 decades. Replacing water pumps is so easy for me that I could easily do it while blindfolded.

Why not use a gasket type spacer. In other words, cut a gasket in the shape of the cover or use the squeeze kind.

i haven't gone in there yet. i'm still waiting for my ignition coil from RaceSearch. once i get that, i'm adding the electrical goodies and taking that cover off.

i'll let you know how it goes.

as for the water pump.... did you have to take the steering pump assembly off to get to the radiator hose? that's what it looked like to me and since i know vey little about how steering systems work, i chickened out and ended up paying through the nose for that job.

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1995 GL Zetec MTX...Light Blue
Born: July 1995
Purchased: November 1997
KKM Intake
Superchip
AR 16x7.5 w/ Dunlop W-10 (205.50.16)
Viper 500+ Alarm
Sounds by: Pioneer CD/Polk dB/MTX Subs/Alpine Amp
Richbrook Shift Knob
"Recontented" Factory Instrument Cluster w/Tach
"Recontented" Foggies


Soon to be added and in my possession:
FocusSport Wires (Blue)
Autolite Platinum Pro's

En Route:
Accel EDIS ignition
BAT/Ford Vinyl Door Sill Protectors

Here are the steps to changing the water pump
1. Drain the engine cooling system
2. Remove lower radiator hose from water pump, then lower vehicle
3. Remove timing belt.
4. Remove water pump bolts, water pump housing gasket, and water pump from cylinder block. Inspect water pump and hoses for wear or damage and replace components as required.
5. reverse procedure to install, noting following
6. Clean water pump and cylinder block gasket sealing surfaces with wire brush or gasket scraper.

Installation
1. install new water pump housing gasket.
2. Lubricate lower radiator hose with silicone lubricant before installing hose to water pump
3. Fill engine cooling system with 50/50 mixture of water and coolant, then run engine and check for leaks.

tfw---

do you have air conditioning?

i remember for some reason i could not for the life of me reach my hand in there and get to the radiator hose. there just wans't enough room!

oh well. i have another 55,000 miles to tryand install the water pump again. i guess i'll have better luck next time!