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#1637689 08/29/06 04:25 PM
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Hello everyone. I have a 95Contour LX with V-6 engine that I got from the original owner a little over 2 years ago. This was his first new car and being an electrical engineer, he meticulously took care of it, keeping it in great shape. I have had no trouble with it all the while I've had it.

The EEC module fuse in the distribution block( #9) blew a couple of weeks ago and a mobile mechanic came out, replaced it and a water pump belt that was worn. I drove it the next week and it seemed fine until it happened again.

The first time I was coming out of a parking lot, slowly accelerating, when the engine chugged a few times and I pulled over and it cut off, battery was strong, but it would not start. The mechanic told me I had no spark and the scanner wouldn't communicate with the EEC. (He discovered and replaced fuse but didn't look for cause...)

The second time (a week later) I pulled across 2 north bound lanes of a highway, very slowly again,into the middle- intending to go south - and it died when I came to the stop in the middle, sounded just the same. The eec module fuse was blown again. It was 6:30pm, and I was able to get another fuse at Advanced, replace it, and get home (about 7 miles - it drove just fine, no indication of a problem) It now starts up as if nothing is wrong now, but I am afraid to drive it, not knowing if it would die when I was in traffic and cause an accident.

Another mechanic, who has not seen the car, told me about the wiring harness recall and that it sounded like that may be the problem. The first owner kept up with all repairs, maintenance and recalls - he would ask the dealer to look them up and take care of them. He never received 99MO3 and was not told about it by the dealer. I've talked to Ford about it and I no longer qualify for this because the mileage is over 100,000 and it's over 10yrs. I had them look up the vin on the car and they said it wasn't done but saw all the others. There was a heater/blower switch recall that wasn't done either but I do not qualify for that. So far no problems with that anyway.

I've got to have someone check it again to see if it is something I can afford to fix - money has been a huge problem due to illness. I had to borrow for the first repair and will need to again but it seems no other choice.

I've tried to study all I could about the wiring harness, so I'm morbidly familiar with that scenario... but I wanted to know if anyone has any other suggestions that might not be so bleak that should be checked or advice in general.

The new mechanic I am considering having it looked at by said, without seeing it, that Contours are notorious for the insulation problem and he feels two wires are shorting and blowing out the eeg module because it takes a lot to blow a fuse that big in that way and because I was able to drive it a bit in between the two occurances, he doesn't think its a relay. He says trying to patch it can end up doing more damage, knocking off more insulation elsewhere and to look for the place can be time consuming/expensive. The cost of replacing the harnesses is more than the blue book on the car and I am going to have to borrow again just to get it looked at - so that just isn't even an option.

My only hope is that it is something I can handle financially right now to get it back on the road. The alternative is no transportation in an area you have to have it. (I live near Myrtle Beach, SC) Are there any other scenarios that could be knocking this module out? Insufficient EGR flow has been a problem in the past but this is all greek to me - though I am getting a rapid education. ;-) Any input would be most appreciated.

Thank you in advance ~ Lâtka


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This product is what I used for a DIY insulation solution. I pulled back a lot of the hard-plastic wire covers (not the rubber insulation that is cracked, but the black plastic tubes the wires route through) to make sure I could see where the insulation cracking stopped and then used the product to re-insulate all wires. You have to be patient and go through the whole car, and there are no guarantees this will fix the problem, but its worth trying. In my case I had a crank sensor code and could see that the bare wires on its connector were touching (i.e. shorted), so it was easy to fix.


'95 Contour GL 2.0l automatic, 110k miles
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...i received the wiring harness letter from Ford a few years ago. It was not a recall. Only an offer from Ford to fix it if you have a problem..and no help after 100K miles..gosh! don't you just love Ford

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Welcome, Ladycontour95 . The first thing for you to check is this. Look at the passenger side strut tower. Is the PCM connector 16, 22 or 26 Pin? Post what it is and we will be able to assist more with the troubleshooting.

From Autozone


"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Thank you to all for your responses.

Tony, I will check that out and let you know. We are in the path of Ernesto and it has been stormy and pouring here all day. It is hugging the coast a little south of me right now and we are expecting its third landfall any time now so we are all hunkered down hurricane-style. Even though it is looking as if it will not be too much trouble, I am right here on the coast in a grove of live oaks and anything can happen - you never know.

A brief update - the best electrical man on the strand, that I mentioned I was going to have look at it in my first post, said it would be pretty useless because he's seen this a lot here and he'd cause more damage moving things to look. He advises all his customers to get rid of that car unless Ford will rewire it on their dime.(currently not an option for me...)

He recommended temporarily putting in a circuit breaker where the EEC module fuse goes that will reset itself in a less than a minute and get a new car when I can. Another mechanic is building me one since they are not available and he is going to check my car out for other problems when I can get it up to him next week. I, meanwhile, well, I'm scared to drive it either way and have it cut off, putting myself and others in danger.

What do you all think about the circuit breaker idea to be able to drive it to the mechanic? Get it towed? or is it not as big a deal as I think it is.

Seems to me it should have been a safety recall. Ford Dealer called it a recall but said is was not a safety recall and left to the dealer's discretion whether it was needed. Safety recalls are forever, at least that is what the dealer told me. 10yrs and 100,000 miles seems like a committment to the problem to me and they could extend that 7mos but - apparently not. I'm over the mileage as well anyway.

btw - I had a thunderbird I loved for 20yrs and it was a great car with proper care and feeding - so I do have a soft spot in my heart for Ford. Seems I'm just out of luck with this one for now but I'm an eternal optimist and not ready to give up yet.

I've been on a work deadline painting a sign at home so its been the front burner priority. Should have it done this weekend and have the time to really focus on the car next week and my next steps with that ~ Lâtka




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Originally posted by ladycontour95:
...He recommended temporarily putting in a circuit breaker where the EEC module fuse goes that will reset itself in a less than a minute and get a new car when I can. ....
What do you all think about the circuit breaker idea to be able to drive it to the mechanic? Get it towed? or is it not as big a deal as I think it is.
...





While the circuit breaker reset is a good idea, it does not alleviate the "engine dying in the middle of the highway" issue. If you have some time, I would suggest that you remove the battery, tray and Power Distribution Box. Then look at the red wires near the connectors under the Power Distribution Box. The red wires are from the positive cables of the battery and go under the tray to the box. The wires could be frayed there. If it is, just change those and you should be golden.


"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles

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