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1998 SE Duratec V6 ATX
Ebay intake with K&N Filter
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If that is driver's side...I have an extra brand new GCK axle...I'd sell it to you.
98 E0 SVT with some stuff
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Its the passenger. How can you fix this?
In the "how-to" it says it will just push back in. And I found another post that said the same thing. But I really don't see how it just pushes back in.
I need to see if I can find an internal Diagram so I actually know what I am "pushing" back in. That might help alot.
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Should have bought the $20 ball joint/tie rod removal too1 (the one that almost everyone says is not needed).
Tie rod/ball joint removal tool
The axle end is like a spline. Just turn it a little bit if it doesn't go in the first time you push it in.
Some pictures from Autozone
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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god damn it I KNEW there had to be an easier way. Last night I was sitting there say WTF because the whole ordeal yesterday was really unsafe. I'll have to take my mom's blazer down to advanced when she gets home and I'll pick one up for the other side. But hey while we're on the subject of tools that make life easier, is there one for the CV joints? 
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To separate it, from link previously posted.
"Separate the outer CV-joint and halfshaft from the wheel hub using Front Hub Remover/Replacer T81P-1104-C and its associated components, or equivalent."
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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exactly I don't want to take any more parts off the car. So a hub seperator will only get me farther along taking the entire car apart.  Or is it impossible to just "push" the inner cv joint back in without removing the outer hub?
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Yes, it is possible and it has been done before.
Some good reading info from this thread.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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I have no life
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Someone didn't read up on old posts. Made your life very difficult.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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No I printed the how to and I did search. Not alot comes up for inner CV joints. And searching for the removing the LCA game me alot of the posts saying the LCA comes off real easy.
But all of this maybe have something to do with the fact that the springs that came off my car are 18 inches long. Is that normal height of the stockers? It seems ungodly huge and I had alternate spring comrpessors to get it off.
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Part number in this thread 
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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hmm seems close to that part number, but aren't alot of the contour part no. FxRZ-xxxx-xx? I dunno a foot and half spring that compresses down onto probably a 12 inch strut then to 10 inches on a car seems crazy. Not to mention dangerous.
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You're not using spring compressors again while trying to install/remove the suspension from the car, are you?
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
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lol Nope. The size of the spring and the amount it is compressed it just amazing. Does anyone have another stock spring sitting around? Mean that sucker is huge. It must compress to half the height when Under the wait of the car.
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with the axle...sometime they'll pop back in place with a little jolt, but I had one where I had to pull the boot off and put it back together...it seems like a cap off one of the ebaring pieces went sideways...
98 E0 SVT with some stuff
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I pulled the bellows and exposed the tripode parts. On mine, the three donut bearings are not captive to the axle lobes, so from the looks of the joint, you may have one of those bearings dropped of its lobe. While fitting for a custom axle change, I've had to slip that joint apart and together loads of times. Feel the bellows for a 2 1/2 inch bearing in there. It's really not too much of a commitment to loosen the two clamps and pull the boot back a bit. Once the three bearings are back on their lobes, you must hold them in a tight circle to start all of them into their corresponding channel in the cup. They tend to catch on the edge of the cup, but wiggle and they'll slip home. There's grease in there, you'll lose some so get a tube first.
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Originally posted by moderndino:
On mine, the three donut bearings are not captive to the axle lobes,
So the CV Joint should be able to pull in and out freely? Because right now I could probably pull mine back out without a problem.
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So that we're on the same page.... the outer axle end has the CV joint, the inner is the tripode where you've pulled the axle out too far and disengaged the bearings that ride in channels withing the tripot. Tripot is the cup, trilobe is the three legged part on the end of the axle. The bearings slip onto the lobes on the trilobe without anything keeping them inplace until capive within the cup, tripot. I retain the bearings all the way around with one hand....from thumb to index finger, and wiggle while pushing the axle inward. There's not too much chance of getting the bearings back on the lobes inside the boot until you know what it looks like, but I suppose it's posible. The bearings only go onto the lobes one way since those parts fit in a ball and socket fashion.
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continued....
yes, once you've seated the bearing assembly in the pot, it has a couple inches in/out movement as well as X and Y movement.
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The bearings are donut looking. It's complete... the inner and outer races and rollers are all one piece, and there's three of those donuts. Their unique qualities are that the inner is a ball socket, and the outer surface of the outer race is also a bearing surface to slide in and out of the tripot.
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Originally posted by ZeroHour:
No I printed the how to and I did search. Not alot comes up for inner CV joints. And searching for the removing the LCA game me alot of the posts saying the LCA comes off real easy.
But all of this maybe have something to do with the fact that the springs that came off my car are 18 inches long. Is that normal height of the stockers? It seems ungodly huge and I had alternate spring comrpessors to get it off.
I guess you missed this one, then. It's a ways back.
Spring length is normal, but again I can't fathom how that has anything to do with you pulling your CV joint apart? Every job is different, I guess.
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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You should have searched or at least asked first. The proper and oddly enough, the quickest way to do this is to disconnect everything but the strut from the knuckle and then remove the knuckle end of the cv joint from the hub. This isn't rocket science, but trying to cut corners with suspension work is only asking for problems!
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Originally posted by fastcougar:
You should have searched or at least asked first. The proper and oddly enough, the quickest way to do this is to disconnect everything but the strut from the knuckle and then remove the knuckle end of the cv joint from the hub. This isn't rocket science, but trying to cut corners with suspension work is only asking for problems!
I'll try to understand wtf that meant later. Especially since I was removing the lca from the knuckle when it pulled out. But I'm not about to waste time on you.
Anyway, maybe some of my problem is that there seems to be alot of names thrown at this joint. So that probably didn't help in my searching. And that post would have been valuable to find a little sooner.
But the strut(attached to knuckle) did have a big part to play in pulling out the inner joint. The thing kicked straight out to the side when the lca let loose. I'm still not sure how the thing went straight out of the car, I was above the fender standing on the pry bar. All I know is that I was above it, and out pry let loose and bam! There a strut sticking out the side of my car and the boot over the tripod bearing is the only thing holding it. 
But either way Thanks for the info and the help. I still have to wait on the strut bearings to even start putting things back together.
I have messed with the shaft enough to get the knuckle to line up with the ball joint on the LCA. It feels like the tripod bearing is back in the slots. Also I can only turn the shaft to where it hits the stop on the tranny because the trans is in park.
I'll try to get pictures/video up.
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I pulled the joint out but could not get it to go back in. Pulled the boot back, but in new grease, put pack together and put on new clamp. Next time I was more conscience and did not pull apart.
Rich S
1998 SVT
1995 Contour 2.5 MTX 215K miles Son's car(dead and buried)
1997 Contour 2.0 ATX
1998 Contour 2.5 ATX
2004 Tauras Wagon 3.0 Duratec
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