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I went to the track and i thing i broke my tranny. what are the sympthons of a broken differential? what else could go wrong after a bad wheel hop?
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Originally posted by 8000RPM: what else could go wrong after a bad wheel hop?
Broken axle.
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how about you tell us what your car is doing? and yeah, if you beat the piss out of the stick diff at the track, you probably broke some of the teeth on the gears in the diff... holes in the side of the trans and leaking fluid are a pretty good sign of this.
the 3.0L
oval port 3.0L '98 midnight blue se
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well no spyder gears is you can drive straight barely and any time you turn the steering wheel a direction itll start up with the goin up the rollercoaster noise.
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ok, i just came to see the car. here's what it does. -engine starts as normal. -clutch feels like normal. -gears go in normal when pressing the clutch with engine on -gears go in WITHOUT pressing the clutch whern engine is ON -when in gear and with engine on, and i rev it up a little, rpm needle goes up, but so does the speedo needle -when i lift the front left tire only in the air, and the car is in gear, i can rotate it freely (it is not locked like it should be) -when i put the car in third i hear some hard clicking sound and at one time the rpm needle went down as if the car would stall (but did it just once for fraction of a second) -when the car is in first gear with engine on and clutch is not pressed, the car stays at one plays, at idle and a clicking sound is coming from the left axle/tranny area... what the hell happend to that car? one dude checked it and said i needed a new tranny. true or not? or what?
p.s. when the car is in gear, and i let the clutch go, car idles and can be pushed around as if it is neutral...
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sounds like a broken diff! but i did hear that the trans would most likely have a hole in it. you couldnt have messed up any gears if none of them go into gear. can you feel the car go into gear, or can you just move the shifter around anywhere you want? the selector shaft pin (bolt) could be gone. that would make it not have any gear feeling, you could put it in the first gear position, and move it all the way to the right to the 5th gear position and never hit the guides between the gears. you could possibly have actually stripped out the splines on a drive axle but the diff would go before the shaft would.
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no, i can feel the stick going into each gear as it should. can't move it aroung like you are describing.
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I have a stock SVT differential out of a '98 that is still in great shape if you need it. Though it sounds like you might want to upgrade to the Torsen or better yet, the Quaife differential.
CSVT E0 3L
14.5 @ 94mph, Stock Intake, Stock Exhaust minus Resonator, CEL, And Broken Pass. Side CV...Untuned.
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Originally posted by Pale Horse: I have a stock SVT differential out of a '98 that is still in great shape if you need it. Though it sounds like you might want to upgrade to the Torsen or better yet, the Quaife differential.
I dont get why you say torsen, better yet quaife. Installed correctly, one is just as reliable as the other.
Regardless, good luck finding a torsen as they are back ordered. Might want to hit up Ebay and see if they have any, if not, your only choice for an upgrade would be a quaife
2000 Contour SVT
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Oh god. Let me guess. Since he's PM'd Pale he's going to go through the trouble of putting in another glass diff. because it is cheaper.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
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Originally posted by posthuman63t: Originally posted by Pale Horse: I have a stock SVT differential out of a '98 that is still in great shape if you need it. Though it sounds like you might want to upgrade to the Torsen or better yet, the Quaife differential.
I dont get why you say torsen, better yet quaife. Installed correctly, one is just as reliable as the other.
Regardless, good luck finding a torsen as they are back ordered. Might want to hit up Ebay and see if they have any, if not, your only choice for an upgrade would be a quaife
Yeah, I realized how that sounded when I reread this post this morning. I was actually getting at the fact that you cant get the torsen right now. My bad
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Originally posted by todras: Oh god. Let me guess. Since he's PM'd Pale he's going to go through the trouble of putting in another glass diff. because it is cheaper.
Since you didn't read the PM Todd, you wouldn't know that he is not planning on keeping the car for that much longer and is looking for a temp fix until he gets rid of it. There, I poked you in your right eye...
CSVT E0 3L
14.5 @ 94mph, Stock Intake, Stock Exhaust minus Resonator, CEL, And Broken Pass. Side CV...Untuned.
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oh snap. haha, yea i woulda said an ATB as well but if just to sell then yes fix it stock and call it a day.
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85,0000
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black/black
Spec Stage 1
Torsen T-2
Trubendz 2.5 flowmaster dual exaust
apexi s-afc II
K&N FIPK
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well, so what, i mean i've had the car for 3 years now. no problems with that till now. even if i keep the car for longer time, what are the chances of the diff getting broken again? i mean, does every contour at the drag strip has an after market diff? i assume not. so if i go there one or two more times, and don't do any wheel hop, what are the chances of breaking it again? does the wheel hop brake the diff or the launch at 4000+ RPM??? i actually found a tranny off a csvt @62k miles for $500 and the dude that will help me change it wants $300 for labor. is that a good deal? i am not sure if i should do that, or get mine opened and change the diff. what are the chances that the diff broke something else in the tranny?? coz if i open it, the dude wants $500 for labor, and if i need to change something else it will be an ugly situation. ohh and just for the record, is it possible for the clutch to be changed on the street or regular parking lot?? )
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get the trans done right if you're going to keep the car and continue to go to the track... by this i mean get a quaife and an uprgaded shifttower. the only stock diffs that are a little bit stronger are the pre-98 diffs, but if you're going to crack the trans, do it right. if you don't listen, i hope you go to the track with another stock diff and blow the feces out of it...
the 3.0L
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Originally posted by 5speed3.0SE�®: if you don't listen, i hope you go to the track with another stock diff and blow the feces out of it...
Which will happen, no doubt.
I don't understand this situation. You take your car to the track, then blow out your diff. Now, you say you still want to go the track and will, but you are replacing it with a stock USED diff??? Have fun wasting your money if you put the stock one back in. Ever hear the saying, "You have to pay to play." Think about that.
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Originally posted by RawBurt: Ever hear the saying, "You have to pay to play." Think about that.
Speaking of which, did you ever pay someone to fix your alternator? Man that was a long month of listening to you pout!
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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Originally posted by Y2KSVT: Originally posted by RawBurt: Ever hear the saying, "You have to pay to play." Think about that.
Speaking of which, did you ever pay someone to fix your alternator? Man that was a long month of listening to you pout!
LOL, no I didn't. I just don't play anymore.
Same problem, just too lazy and not motivated enough to figure it out/ care.
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i am not saying i am gonna go to the track. i was just asking, "what if". i gave up the idea with the limited slip diff, coz my car has 105k miles, and i think its pointles to invest the money. besides, why open the tranny and change just the diff. if i do that, i have to change the shift forks and what not..so i decided it be much easier to get an entire tranny... and no one ever answered my question. which breaks the diff?? the wheel hop or the launch @ 4000rpm (assuming there's no wheel hop). i am just curious.
thanks for the advices all. you helped a lot
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what's wrong with your alternator anyway??? coz i also have some issues with mine...
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Originally posted by 8000RPM: no one ever answered my question. which breaks the diff?? the wheel hop or the launch @ 4000rpm (assuming there's no wheel hop). i am just curious.
Both. The wheel hopping is what really speeds up the process. I never had wheel hopping issues with my 2.5L, but when I went 3L, I installed the Quaife. The stock diff at 52k miles was on it's last legs, from a lot of abuse.
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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