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#1632992 08/20/06 07:15 PM
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I went to the track and i thing i broke my tranny. what are the sympthons of a broken differential? what else could go wrong after a bad wheel hop?

#1632993 08/20/06 07:16 PM
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Originally posted by 8000RPM:
what else could go wrong after a bad wheel hop?




Broken axle.


Tony 1998 SVT Contour (B/MB) #542 3L 1998 SVT Contour (SF/MB) #1266 parts car 2000 SVT Contour (SF/MB) #1533 3L swap to begin!
#1632994 08/21/06 02:42 AM
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how about you tell us what your car is doing? and yeah, if you beat the piss out of the stick diff at the track, you probably broke some of the teeth on the gears in the diff... holes in the side of the trans and leaking fluid are a pretty good sign of this.


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#1632995 08/21/06 06:21 PM
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well no spyder gears is you can drive straight barely and any time you turn the steering wheel a direction itll start up with the goin up the rollercoaster noise.


2002 Cougar 2.5 duratec/ mtx-75 85,0000 Mondeo ST-200 wheels/BFG KDW NT black/black Spec Stage 1 Torsen T-2 Trubendz 2.5 flowmaster dual exaust apexi s-afc II K&N FIPK
#1632996 08/22/06 12:12 AM
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ok, i just came to see the car. here's what it does.
-engine starts as normal.
-clutch feels like normal.
-gears go in normal when pressing the clutch with engine on
-gears go in WITHOUT pressing the clutch whern engine is ON
-when in gear and with engine on, and i rev it up a little, rpm needle goes up, but so does the speedo needle
-when i lift the front left tire only in the air, and the car is in gear, i can rotate it freely (it is not locked like it should be)
-when i put the car in third i hear some hard clicking sound and at one time the rpm needle went down as if the car would stall (but did it just once for fraction of a second)
-when the car is in first gear with engine on and clutch is not pressed, the car stays at one plays, at idle and a clicking sound is coming from the left axle/tranny area...
what the hell happend to that car? one dude checked it and said i needed a new tranny. true or not? or what?


p.s. when the car is in gear, and i let the clutch go, car idles and can be pushed around as if it is neutral...

#1632997 08/22/06 02:17 AM
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sounds like a broken diff! but i did hear that the trans would most likely have a hole in it. you couldnt have messed up any gears if none of them go into gear. can you feel the car go into gear, or can you just move the shifter around anywhere you want? the selector shaft pin (bolt) could be gone. that would make it not have any gear feeling, you could put it in the first gear position, and move it all the way to the right to the 5th gear position and never hit the guides between the gears. you could possibly have actually stripped out the splines on a drive axle but the diff would go before the shaft would.


1998 CSVT NX stage 1 ford EFI kit MSD dis-4 B&M short throw K&N short ram intake Fsvt Euro 17's Trubendz 2.5" exhaust Spec stage 3 249.9 HP 258.2 TRQ clutch slipping the whole time
#1632998 08/22/06 03:19 AM
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no, i can feel the stick going into each gear as it should. can't move it aroung like you are describing.

#1632999 08/22/06 11:00 PM
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I have a stock SVT differential out of a '98 that is still in great shape if you need it. Though it sounds like you might want to upgrade to the Torsen or better yet, the Quaife differential.


CSVT E0 3L 14.5 @ 94mph, Stock Intake, Stock Exhaust minus Resonator, CEL, And Broken Pass. Side CV...Untuned.
#1633000 08/23/06 04:03 AM
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i pm-ed you

#1633001 08/23/06 04:10 AM
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Originally posted by Pale Horse:
I have a stock SVT differential out of a '98 that is still in great shape if you need it. Though it sounds like you might want to upgrade to the Torsen or better yet, the Quaife differential.




I dont get why you say torsen, better yet quaife. Installed correctly, one is just as reliable as the other.

Regardless, good luck finding a torsen as they are back ordered. Might want to hit up Ebay and see if they have any, if not, your only choice for an upgrade would be a quaife


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#1633002 08/23/06 03:00 PM
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Oh god. Let me guess. Since he's PM'd Pale he's going to go through the trouble of putting in another glass diff. because it is cheaper.


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#1633003 08/23/06 03:09 PM
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Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Originally posted by Pale Horse:
I have a stock SVT differential out of a '98 that is still in great shape if you need it. Though it sounds like you might want to upgrade to the Torsen or better yet, the Quaife differential.




I dont get why you say torsen, better yet quaife. Installed correctly, one is just as reliable as the other.

Regardless, good luck finding a torsen as they are back ordered. Might want to hit up Ebay and see if they have any, if not, your only choice for an upgrade would be a quaife



Yeah, I realized how that sounded when I reread this post this morning. I was actually getting at the fact that you cant get the torsen right now. My bad


CSVT E0 3L 14.5 @ 94mph, Stock Intake, Stock Exhaust minus Resonator, CEL, And Broken Pass. Side CV...Untuned.
#1633004 08/23/06 03:10 PM
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Originally posted by todras:
Oh god. Let me guess. Since he's PM'd Pale he's going to go through the trouble of putting in another glass diff. because it is cheaper.




Since you didn't read the PM Todd, you wouldn't know that he is not planning on keeping the car for that much longer and is looking for a temp fix until he gets rid of it. There, I poked you in your right eye...


CSVT E0 3L 14.5 @ 94mph, Stock Intake, Stock Exhaust minus Resonator, CEL, And Broken Pass. Side CV...Untuned.
#1633005 08/23/06 07:56 PM
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oh snap. haha, yea i woulda said an ATB as well but if just to sell then yes fix it stock and call it a day.


2002 Cougar 2.5 duratec/ mtx-75 85,0000 Mondeo ST-200 wheels/BFG KDW NT black/black Spec Stage 1 Torsen T-2 Trubendz 2.5 flowmaster dual exaust apexi s-afc II K&N FIPK
#1633006 08/23/06 11:06 PM
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well, so what, i mean i've had the car for 3 years now. no problems with that till now. even if i keep the car for longer time, what are the chances of the diff getting broken again? i mean, does every contour at the drag strip has an after market diff? i assume not. so if i go there one or two more times, and don't do any wheel hop, what are the chances of breaking it again? does the wheel hop brake the diff or the launch at 4000+ RPM???
i actually found a tranny off a csvt @62k miles for $500 and the dude that will help me change it wants $300 for labor. is that a good deal? i am not sure if i should do that, or get mine opened and change the diff. what are the chances that the diff broke something else in the tranny?? coz if i open it, the dude wants $500 for labor, and if i need to change something else it will be an ugly situation.

ohh and just for the record, is it possible for the clutch to be changed on the street or regular parking lot?? )

#1633007 08/24/06 05:18 AM
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get the trans done right if you're going to keep the car and continue to go to the track... by this i mean get a quaife and an uprgaded shifttower. the only stock diffs that are a little bit stronger are the pre-98 diffs, but if you're going to crack the trans, do it right. if you don't listen, i hope you go to the track with another stock diff and blow the feces out of it...


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#1633008 08/24/06 01:12 PM
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Originally posted by 5speed3.0SE�®:
if you don't listen, i hope you go to the track with another stock diff and blow the feces out of it...




Which will happen, no doubt.

I don't understand this situation. You take your car to the track, then blow out your diff. Now, you say you still want to go the track and will, but you are replacing it with a stock USED diff??? Have fun wasting your money if you put the stock one back in. Ever hear the saying, "You have to pay to play." Think about that.

#1633009 08/24/06 01:43 PM
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Originally posted by RawBurt:
Ever hear the saying, "You have to pay to play." Think about that.




Speaking of which, did you ever pay someone to fix your alternator? Man that was a long month of listening to you pout!

Mark


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#1633010 08/24/06 01:46 PM
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Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
Ever hear the saying, "You have to pay to play." Think about that.




Speaking of which, did you ever pay someone to fix your alternator? Man that was a long month of listening to you pout!




LOL, no I didn't. I just don't play anymore.

Same problem, just too lazy and not motivated enough to figure it out/ care.

#1633011 08/25/06 12:22 AM
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i am not saying i am gonna go to the track. i was just asking, "what if". i gave up the idea with the limited slip diff, coz my car has 105k miles, and i think its pointles to invest the money. besides, why open the tranny and change just the diff. if i do that, i have to change the shift forks and what not..so i decided it be much easier to get an entire tranny...
and no one ever answered my question. which breaks the diff?? the wheel hop or the launch @ 4000rpm (assuming there's no wheel hop). i am just curious.

thanks for the advices all. you helped a lot

#1633012 08/25/06 12:26 AM
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what's wrong with your alternator anyway??? coz i also have some issues with mine...

#1633013 08/25/06 02:18 AM
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Originally posted by 8000RPM:
no one ever answered my question. which breaks the diff?? the wheel hop or the launch @ 4000rpm (assuming there's no wheel hop). i am just curious.




Both. The wheel hopping is what really speeds up the process. I never had wheel hopping issues with my 2.5L, but when I went 3L, I installed the Quaife. The stock diff at 52k miles was on it's last legs, from a lot of abuse.

Mark


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