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Joined: Feb 2005
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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For the ES bushings, which goes where? The set has 2 large and 2 smaller, both are same width. I tried matching them, but I want to make sure before I start putting parts together.
1998 SE Duratec V6 ATX
Ebay intake with K&N Filter
Trubendz Exhaust
Custom Hood
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
And what are you talking about? Endlink bushings or sway bar bushings?
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Feb 2005
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My bad. Neither. The sway bar and end link set is pretty obvious. The Tie and Knuckle Set (back row) 
1998 SE Duratec V6 ATX
Ebay intake with K&N Filter
Trubendz Exhaust
Custom Hood
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 22
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
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small ones go in the trailing arm and the large ones go in the hub...
1998 red CSVT
02' 3l hybrid swap, MSDS headers, KKM intake, UD pulleys, Brenspeed tune, DMD
poly mounts
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Joined: Feb 2005
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Thanks. That is what I through from looking at the tie rod and knuckle, but I wanted to confirm that through another member before I made a mistake.
While we're talking about the ES bushings:
I didn't put alot of though into actually installing the bushing into the knuckle. I knew the arm was easy because it just unbolts. I have never bleed brakes before and I am hesitating on taking the knunkles off to burn out the bushing. Or I am unsure how safe it would be to burn out the bushing while its on the car...
How good/bad would it be if I only put in the trailing arm bushing?
Looking for thoughts and opinions. Also the bushing on the knuckle is worn, but not nearly like the one in the trailing arm. I could turn the one originally in the arm, but the one on the knuckle resists movement alot better. But I am here doing the suspension and I'm just looking for another point of view. TIA
1998 SE Duratec V6 ATX
Ebay intake with K&N Filter
Trubendz Exhaust
Custom Hood
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,867
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by ZeroHour:
Thanks. That is what I through from looking at the tie rod and knuckle, but I wanted to confirm that through another member before I made a mistake.
While we're talking about the ES bushings:
I didn't put alot of though into actually installing the bushing into the knuckle. I knew the arm was easy because it just unbolts. I have never bleed brakes before and I am hesitating on taking the knunkles off to burn out the bushing. Or I am unsure how safe it would be to burn out the bushing while its on the car...
How good/bad would it be if I only put in the trailing arm bushing?
Looking for thoughts and opinions. Also the bushing on the knuckle is worn, but not nearly like the one in the trailing arm. I could turn the one originally in the arm, but the one on the knuckle resists movement alot better. But I am here doing the suspension and I'm just looking for another point of view. TIA
In the how-to that we showed you from your earlier posts on this topic, the author (Pole120) used a hole-saw to remove the rubber bushing from the knuckle. Then he used an air-chisel to cut out the metal sleeve. He removed the knuckle assembly from the car, but I was thinking of trying it in situ.
Other people have done just the trailing arm, at least temporarily, but the fact is that both are probably worn.
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Joined: Jun 2006
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New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
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So far i have only got around to the trailing arm bushings. No problems. I am going to do the install with the knuckle still on the car. Use a hole-saw to cut the rubber out and get the sleeve out with a air chisel then push in the new bushing. 
1998 red CSVT
02' 3l hybrid swap, MSDS headers, KKM intake, UD pulleys, Brenspeed tune, DMD
poly mounts
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Well all I have right now is a saws all, a dremel, a very angry drill that is probably 1/4hp, a propane touch, a cooping saw, lots of sand paper, some razor blades, and 5/8 of a pack of gatorade. 
Oh and one end link  My box arrived with only one end link, someone forgot to count to two in texas.  But they are second daying the other one and it will be here monday.
I have another question, why is it required to cut out the metal sleeve? It seems to be that the bushign would fit with the sleeve there. Not to mention if the original bushing had a sleeve, why not keep it for the replacement?
1998 SE Duratec V6 ATX
Ebay intake with K&N Filter
Trubendz Exhaust
Custom Hood
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 22
New CEG\'er
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I am pretty sure it will not fit with the sleeve in...You could try, but i think it would be a PITA to get it with the sleeve still in the knuckle.
I did my trailing arm bushing with a torch,flat head screwdriver,and a dremel. I heated the center sleeve until it melted out then took a screw driver and took the rest of the rubber out(comes out pretty easy when hot). Then took a sanding wheel on the dremel and got the rest of the rubber out.
1998 red CSVT
02' 3l hybrid swap, MSDS headers, KKM intake, UD pulleys, Brenspeed tune, DMD
poly mounts
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Joined: Oct 2000
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by ZeroHour:
Well all I have right now is a saws all, a dremel, a very angry drill that is probably 1/4hp, a propane touch, a cooping saw, lots of sand paper, some razor blades, and 5/8 of a pack of gatorade.
Welp, time for a trip to Lowe's and the Liquor store.
Originally posted by ZeroHour:
I have another question, why is it required to cut out the metal sleeve? It seems to be that the bushign would fit with the sleeve there. Not to mention if the original bushing had a sleeve, why not keep it for the replacement?
The ES instructions say to retain any metal sleeves you find and re-use them, but Pole said there was no way it was going to fit, and it works fine without it.
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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