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I have already bought new rotor and pads for the passenger side rear caliper. What else am I suppose to do in order to take the caliper out, Im used to the front ones so Ive really never had that much to do with rear calipers. Im gonna have to bleed the brakes, am I gonna bleed all the brakes or just that one side im working on? Gosh thats one thing im scared about screwing up in. Feedback and or tips would be appreciated..
#0009
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A punch hammer for the rear star bit's that seem to not want to move for us in colder climates. Use the box end for where the ebrake goes through the caliper. It's a bit of a PITA. Just bleed the one corner if the other calipers were bled recently.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Originally posted by todras:
A punch hammer for the rear star bit's that seem to not want to move for us in colder climates. Use the box end for where the ebrake goes through the caliper. It's a bit of a PITA. Just bleed the one corner if the other calipers were bled recently.
I dont really think my brakes have ever been bleed so will it still be ok to do just that one side? and Im not sure I get what you mean by the box end of the caliper../?
#0009
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Box end of a box end wrench.  The brakes should be bled once a year. 
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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"Absolut Rara."
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"Absolut Rara."
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Originally posted by todras:
The brakes should be bled once a year.
We should set up a reminder service for this, for people like Mapotazifosho  
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Originally posted by Rara:
Originally posted by todras:
The brakes should be bled once a year.
We should set up a reminder service for this, for people like Mapotazifosho
HAHAHA
If you need new fluid you should check out ATE Superblue Racing, its really nice.
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find. 
much like your weiner.
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I read to not get the dyed version because of problems it was causing with ABS...?
Originally posted by LUCA:
Yep. 
You can be Phil too if you'd like. 
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"Absolut Rara."
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"Absolut Rara."
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Originally posted by 99 red SVT:
I read to not get the dyed version because of problems it was causing with ABS...?
unsubstantiated rumor as far as I'm concerned. I've never seen any evidence of the blue doing anything other than discoloring certain types of master cylinder reservoirs.
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Originally posted by Tourige:
If you need new fluid you should check out ATE Superblue Racing, its really nice.
is it sold in stores?
#0009
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Nope, not unless you have a race shop handy. Try Valvoline Synpower DOT4. Great stuff, available anywhere, and not too expensive.
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Motocraft HD fluid is supposed to be pretty good IIRC. ... I use ATE. It works good and I like that they have blue and gold, so you know for sure when you got all the old junk out.
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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The word on teh intarweb is that Ford has sent production of their HD fluid to China and quality has dropped. There's a C int he part # if it's the new cheap stuff.
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"Absolut Rara."
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Originally posted by Auto-X Fil:
The word on teh intarweb is that Ford has sent production of their HD fluid to China and quality has dropped. There's a C int he part # if it's the new cheap stuff.
The new supplier is a company called CCI, as opposed to the old stuff coming from Dow chemical. The new stuff supposedly has comparable boiling temps dry and wet. And while most will say that Ford switched because the CCI fluid was cheaper, that isn't entirely true; they switched because the new stuff has much lower viscosity, especially at cold temps, and it allows the IVD/RSC systems to meet thier performance targets at all temps without using very expensive active brake boosters.
I never had any issues with any of my brake test vehicles running the CCI fluid, but, by the same token, I never had any real race track experience with it either.
Oh, and I would recommend against the Valvoline Synpower fluid; my experience with it is that it is the worst fluid I have ever used. It was fine when I put it in the car, but, it was so hygroscopic that I had to reflush the entire system within a month because I couldn't stand the pedal feel.
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Thanks Rara. I have been flushing a lot so I haven't noticed any problems at all - I'll just recommend it for track cars that see frequent changes then.
I hope the new Ford fluid is still good. It's cheap and available, and always worked well for me. I'll give it a shot in the daiy driver if (when?) the Valvoline I just put in gets wet.
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I've run ATE in mine for quite a while. I was able to pick up a jug of it from a foreign auto parts store that carries OEM stuff for VW/Audi/BMW/MB stuff like that. They've even got a good selection of Opel parts. 
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well i did the brakes today, the rears are a pita but the caliper was all screwed up, it was in rough shape, hopefully this ford remanufactured ones works well..looked nice anc clean though lol. I was reading in the brake bleeding howto's that you should also bleed the clutch, is that somthing i have to do since i only had to bleed like only one side?
#0009
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You should flush the entire system including clutch since they all work off the same resevoir. Just for braking response alone.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Originally posted by todras:
You should flush the entire system including clutch since they all work off the same resevoir. Just for braking response alone.
yea, will it kill me if I dont? Im planning on getting the whole brake system flushed along with new tranny fluid (RP) is it alright if I wait a month?
#0009
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maybe you can come down here once you get this all worked out hoooooney.. i started to notice a little bit of a squeak coming from my front left .. so when ever i hear it i just slam the brakes and the sound stops.. until it starts again. 
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Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
yea, will it kill me if I dont?
No.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Originally posted by Tourige:
Originally posted by Rara:
Originally posted by todras:
The brakes should be bled once a year.
We should set up a reminder service for this, for people like Mapotazifosho
HAHAHA
If you need new fluid you should check out ATE Superblue Racing, its really nice.
x2. Good stuff. Really changed the pedal feel since I bled the breaks for the first time (that I know of since i purchased the car).
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Originally posted by todras:
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
yea, will it kill me if I dont?
No.
its been weird lately, my brake peddle has felt very very smooth, and my clutch as well. Ever since I bleed the rear caliper, well upon doing it we noticed alot of air bubbles in the line untill it smoothed out. Any now my car runs nice and the clutch/brake peddles are smooth as silk, i like it
#0009
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